From left: Emily Pelton (Veritas), Rachel Stinson Vrooman (Stinson), Patt Eagan (Early Mountain), George Hodson (Veritas) and Nathan Vrooman (Ankida) at the Charleston Food and Wine Festival (Photo courtesy Commonwealth Collective)
It’s been a long, hard fight for Virginia wine to get its due.
What niche does it occupy in a market defined by — and, yes, glutted by — wines from Europe, Napa Valley, and Oregon and Washington? Even in their own state, Virginia wines have often struggled for recognition and respect.
But that fight may be about to get just a little bit easier, thanks to the Commonwealth Collective, a marketing group launched in July by Tamara Vrooman Lucas, whose family owns Ankida Ridge Vineyards in Amherst, Virginia.
Lucas’ mission? To get Virginia wine on the lists at the best restaurants in Charleston, Atlanta, and other cities in South Carolina and Georgia.
“It’s amazing how little people outside of Virginia know about Virginia wines, particularly in the South, where the focus on Southern ingredients and farm to table is so strong. They lump them in the same category as wines from South Carolina and Georgia,” which is a mistake, says Lucas, who spent more than a decade at Quality Wine & Spirits, a large distributor in Georgia. “The level of care in [Virginia] wine making, terroir and vineyard management is far superior to Georgia.”
The Collective represents four wineries — Ankida Ridge, Stinson, Early Mountain and Veritas — that together span a 65-mile stretch of the Blue Ridge Mountains, producing wines that retail from just under $20 to over $65. The quality, price and distinct character of these wines make them ideal for sommelier-driven, James Beard Award-minded restaurants, like Husk (from former Lemaire sous chef Sean Brock) or Chef Hugh Acheson’s Empire State South in Atlanta.
Currently, both Ankida Ridge and Stinson labels are under consideration for the future Husk Greenville, which has committed to putting two Commonwealth Collective wines on its list.
Says Lucas of the state’s vintages, “These are worthy, world-class wines,” and the Collective’s campaign hopes to make them served and appreciated far and wide.
Where to find in RVA:
Early Mountain Five Forks viognier blend, on tap at Shagbark
Ankida Ridge Pinot Noir, Stinson Sauvignon Blanc bottles at The Roosevelt