Sugar & Twine converted its storefront into a walk-up window. (Photo by April Greer)
It’s hard to believe it’s been 12 months of ups and downs for the food and beverage industry, of new concepts and ideas, embracing the “survive and thrive” mantra, and rolling with the punches. While we made a note to retire the dreaded “p-word” that has become associated with the changes businesses made in response to COVID-19, let’s highlight some innovative adaptations that are making the most of these trying times.
Walk-up Windows
If there’s a line trickling down Cary Street on a weekend morning, chances are it’s made up of dedicated Sugar & Twine fans getting their morning caffeine and pastry fix. When owner Beth Oristian closed the doors of her 5-year-old bakery in March 2020 due to the pandemic, the shop had been preparing for its biggest weekend of the year — the annual French Film Festival at the nearby Byrd Theatre. Stocked with dough, the bakery decided to sell boxes filled with biscuits and treats, taking preorders and making limited quantities. It sparked an idea. “It became clear the pastries look good in this window, and we could put a table and register there,” Oristian says. “We thought we might as well try it and see if it works.”
It did, and following the trend of coffee shops on the West Coast, Sugar & Twine officially debuted its walk-up window in May. “It’s another way to engage with the community, and folks are really enjoying it,” she says. Four-legged friends have also been joining in. Visitors are encouraged to bring their dogs with them, and a community board with Polaroid pics of customers’ pets is displayed out front. “We have finally gotten to meet all of our regulars’ dogs, which is kind of funny,” Oristian says, adding that it’s allowed her and staff to get to know the bakery’s patrons more intimately.
In January, the team behind Brenner Pass debuted the all-day cafe Black Lodge. (Photo by April Greer)
A Takeout Friendly Cafe
The vision for Black Lodge came to life after it became increasingly clear that indoor dining wasn’t the safest option for the Brenner Pass team or its diners. Reinventing the adjoining space formerly known as Chairlift, owners Brittanny Anderson, James Kohler, Nathan Conway and Brad Hemp introduced an all-day cafe with a fresh lineup of takeout-friendly options. The revised concept allows the team to flex its creative muscles, with offerings including a Cinnamon Toast Crunch milk cocktail and a harissa fried chicken sandwich. P.S.: Check out the market, where options range from grab-and-go bites to natural wines and cheeses.
Harissa fried chicken sandwich at Black Lodge (Photo by April Greer)
Pop-ups
As restaurants plotted ways to set themselves apart through takeout, diners looked for ways to connect with the places they were so accustomed to visiting. Church Hill’s Alewife was an early star, introducing everything from a “Sopranos”-themed dinner to Alewife Swim, a pop-up featuring items inspired by the cartoons “Bob’s Burgers” and “Rick and Morty.” Hatch Kitchen has hosted everything from pop-ups such as the pasta-heavy Oro from former Nota Bene chef Laine Myers to food trucks and the now-brick-and-mortar Cobra Burger, providing opportunities for the owners to test their ideas through its eatery, Hatch Cafe.
A spread of falafel, labneh and hummus from pop-up Susie & Esther (Photo by Sharona Cantor courtesy Susie & Esther)
Rotating Kitchen Takeovers
When the pandemic struck, bar life came to a screeching halt. Carytown watering hole The Jasper found itself unable to host patrons or sling drinks, and many industry friends were furloughed or unemployed. Their response: the “Friends and Family” kitchen series. Each week, a rotating lineup of culinary players — including Jewish- and Mediterranean-inspired pop-up Susie & Esther and forthcoming brick-and-mortar Pizza Bones, along with in-house pasta, ramen and smash-style burger concepts — take over the adjoining kitchen of Carytown Cupcakes, which Jasper co-owner Kevin Liu also operates. “I keep joking that we have seven chefs right now,” fellow Jasper co-owner Brandon Peck says with a laugh. “We don’t really utilize the kitchen when in normal operation, and this was the perfect opportunity to do that,” he says. Since July, Peck and the Jasper crew have been pulling double duty, making libations to pair with each unique dinner menu while donning aprons in the kitchen. “We’re really fortunate in the fact that we have such a diverse menu right now — you can get food from us four or five times a week [for takeout] and have something completely different each time,” he says, noting the variety has drawn a new crop of regulars.
Online Farmers Markets
While perusing the vendor tables and catching up with our favorite farmers is definitely the preferred way to market, there is something pretty cool about being able to shop for local produce from the comfort of one’s couch. Although in-person markets are still taking place, during the initial onset of the pandemic, the expansion of online platforms such as Fall Line Farms & Local Roots, plus the transition to a web-based ordering system by South of the James and Birdhouse farmers markets allowed patrons to support local purveyors safely and helped farmers continue to reach their regulars.
