Mark Nassereddine behind the counter at Country Style Donuts
Doughnut Dynasty
Six days a week, Mark Nassereddine balances boxing Boston and Bavarian cream and bulging Bismark doughnuts while taking phone orders. Helming Country Style Donuts on Williamsburg Road in Richmond, his buzzing shop rolls out 250 pounds of dough a day.
Country Style Donuts was started by Mark’s parents, Steve and Wafaa Nassereddine, who purchased the building at auction and then, in 1984, the business, from its original owner. A mere 4 years old at the time, Mark only remembers the former proprietor as “Freddie.”
Today, the aqua-colored diner stools from yesteryear are still warmed by regulars sipping coffee over bear claws. Mark fondly recalls jumping up and down on those stools while helping his dad. “I tried to do schoolwork, but mainly I was being a troublemaker. We have quite a few customers that remember me as a child,” he says with a chuckle.
The entire Nassereddine family have worked there — until their matriarch decided it was time to expand. In 2014, they debuted a second doughnut outpost at 8900 W. Broad St., which is run by Wafaa’s sons Nadar and Lewa, the latter of whom is training to open his own store. “We’re looking for a place near Hull Street and Courthouse Road,” Mark says.
Mark’s father never expected that upon moving to Richmond from Lebanon in the mid-1970s he would pave the way for a doughnut dynasty, or that his children would follow in his footsteps. Steve’s first job in the U.S. was working at a local Dunkin’. He was also part owner of Golden Donuts near Virginia Commonwealth University in the early ’90s. Steve’s daughter, Halla, is also in the dough biz, along with her husband, Ramzi. The duo are owners of Donuts Company on Midlothian Turnpike in North Chesterfield.
Mark says that Country Style Donuts endures with little change except adding seasonally colored sprinkles to birthday boxes with the recipients’ names spelled out in fried dough, because, he says, “Everyone likes to taste the sweet life.”
(From left) Nina Tucker, Anthony Tucker and Sydney Davis Tucker of Nomad Deli & Catering Co.
Down the Line
There’s not an employee at Nomad Deli & Catering Co. who is unrelated. Established by Anthony Tucker, the family-operated 207 W. Brookland Park Blvd. restaurant, takeout and catering company known for its fried turkeys and squad-sized sides, is bustling again after closing dine-in service during the COVID-19 pandemic. Anthony, a New Jersey transplant, works the line, his grandchild watching from within a nearby catering pan. His oldest daughter, Nina, triples as baker, bookkeeper and the friendly face with whom you place an order for the “best 12-inch sub in RVA.” Anthony samples the competition, even holding hoagies to a ruler to verify foot-long status. “Most foot-longs are actually 11 inches; not our Philly,” he says firmly. That’s the former contractor at work. Anthony, who lives within sniffing distance of Nomad Deli, purchased and renovated the building himself in 2015.
Each Nomad Deli worker has a specialty. For Sydney Tucker Davis, Anthony’s youngest daughter, it’s vegan fare. Nina says of her sister, “Sydney is a creative cook. She loves making healthy dishes, using pureed broccoli and black and red beans in her veggie burgers.”
Before in-house service resumed in October 2023, Sydney prepared a fall-themed “Cozy Girl” dinner and brunch in order “to get our feet wet again,” her father says. “We’re mostly a sandwich and soup spot.” But they’re an innovative bunch, hosting a three-course Valentine’s Day dinner — vegan options included — and offering a Nomad Munchie Box available on the weed-friendly holiday April 20, packed with burgers, hotdogs, fries and potato salad, along with a jug of tea.
But what Anthony really wants to promote is that they’re not only rooted in family, but their community. “Every Thanksgiving we do free dinner, and on July Fourth, a free cookout for the neighborhood,” he says. “People pick up our food for their seniors. That’s rewarding.”
(From left) Felix Salvador and the Gutierrez family: Oscar Daniel, father Ramón, mother Paty, nephew Ilian and sister Itzel of La Doña Cocina Mexicana
Safe Space
Oscar Daniel Gutierrez, 29, hails from Mexico, where his parents were street vendors in Chilpancingo, Guerrero. “We’re an immigrant family trying to take care of each other,” says Daniel, setting down a plate of chicken picaditas with green tomatillo, red tomato and guajillo chile salsas at the newly opened La Doña Cocina Mexicana. The Lilliputian restaurant at 6400 Horsepen Road is bedecked with twinkling lights. A photo wall is named for his mother, Paty Bahena, who helms the kitchen. One of Daniel’s brothers, Cesar, has a restaurant back in Mexico. He keeps the family abreast of food trends and also runs La Doña’s Instagram account, a trove of eats from Mexico’s Pacific Coast.
The Gutierrezes followed the restaurateur to Richmond in 2015, after Cesar met and married his former wife here. “Life’s harder in Mexico, sometimes unsafe,” Daniel says. “Medical services weren’t good, and my dad has kidney issues.”
Daniel was also seeking a safe space.
“I came out to my family at 17,” he continues. “I was afraid they wouldn’t accept me for the person I am, but they did. My dad said, ‘Just respect yourself and respect others. I love you. You’re my son.’ But we felt like me being gay made everyone a target in Mexico.” Alongside Daniel’s parents, his husband, Felix Salvador, serves, cooks and helps manage La Doña.
Daniel first began working in the restaurant industry as a dishwasher at El Nopal II on Laburnum Avenue and quickly moved up to serving. He taught himself English using closed captioning when watching TV. But years of working at many local Mexican restaurants left Daniel yearning to introduce his mother’s cooking — the cuisine of Guerrero, which relies on less cheese, homemade tortillas and a larger variety of salsas. La Doña roasts, crushes and serves over 23 types.
Guests drive from Williamsburg for a taste. Daniel explains why: “We roast and peel poblano peppers, fill them with cheese — never meat — and lightly fry the egg-battered chile rellenos, which are traditionally served in a broth. Frying, making salsas and patting tortillas are an art. I can’t lie to the people of Mexico. They know the real stuff.”
