An altar decorated for Day of the Dead at Conejo (Photo courtesy Conejo)
Every culture has a different way of honoring those who have passed. For many in Mexico, paying homage to departed friends and family is an annual, lighthearted multiday affair. Typically held from Nov. 1-2, Dia de los Muertos — or Day of the Dead — is marked by fragrant orange marigolds, an abundance of brightly colored candles and ofrendas — altars adorned with everything from alcohol and sweets to the savory sauce mole — meant to welcome the souls of ancestors and other loved ones.
Danny Mena, a Mexico City native, cookbook author, and chef and co-owner of Richmond’s Conejo, grew up observing the widely celebrated holiday, which is a blend of Indigenous and Spanish traditions. Now, he integrates those longstanding influences into Day of the Dead celebrations at his own restaurant.
“It’s kind of becoming a mini Cinco de Mayo, where it’s becoming a bigger activity than what it normally used to be,” Mena says. “It’s always this balance of what Americans know and care about and what we care about. We try to bring in the cultural relevance, and we really care about trying to showcase Mexico in a more modern light. I think it is a beautiful celebration and one of the few that I feel, as it grows, is steeped in such rich traditions — and then, of course, the food.”
During Day of the Dead festivities, Conejo offers complimentary pan de muerto, a dense, sweet, sugar-dusted bread with hints of orange. Mena feels giving the brioche-like buns to diners at the end of the meal encourages them to dig a little deeper and learn more about the story behind the treat.
“It’s fresh and vibrant and gets decorated with ... crosses that signify bones and then is dusted in sugar. It’s a really delicious bread that also people don’t know about,” Mena says.
Day of the Dead pastries at Coco & Hazel (Photo courtesy Coco & Hazel)
Sometimes topped with colored sugar, sesame seeds and dried fruits, or dipped in coffee or hot chocolate, pan de muerto will also be on the menu at Bon Air desserterie Coco & Hazel Oct. 30-Nov. 4. Born and raised in Oaxaca, Mexico, head baker Eduardo Bravo “wanted to bring some of my heritage and family traditions to Coco & Hazel,” he says.
Each year, Carytown watering hole The Jasper closes for a few days to thoughtfully transform its interior — and its food and beverage menus — for Day of the Dead. Monarch butterflies, papel picado (perforated paper banners) and sugar skulls are on display, while Mexican spirits such as corn whiskey, rum and the anise liqueur Xtabentún are front and center. From Oct. 22-Nov. 2, guests can sip a corn-milk-based elote eggnog and eat ceviche, chorizo tortas and churros.
Co-owner Brandon Peck says, “There’s a lot of spirits that are coming out of Mexico that aren’t just agave based. We try to take as many cues from Mexican cuisine and flavors of Mexico while also incorporating a lot of stuff that makes Day of the Dead special. You feel like you’re in a different place, which is what we were going for.”
The Emerald Lounge, The Jasper’s sister establishment in Union Hill, will also host festivities with La Cueva, held from Oct. 22-Nov. 3. The vision for the cultural embrace came from the lounge’s Mexico City-born manager Marcelo Lopez-Cortez, and each year the bar donates 10% of its profits to Immigrant Families Together.
Carytown’s Lolita’s will also celebrate on Nov. 1-2. “The ambiance on Dia de los muertos is always special,” says co-owner Karina Garcia. “We try to create the same feeling as if you were walking in the graveyards with your family, adorning gravestones with flowers.”
Along with pan de muerto, and the iconic Catrina's sugar skulls, the modern Mexican Carytown restaurant will offer a few drink specials inspired by the holiday. “For example, totomoxtle, which is the ashes of the corn husk, we will use as a garnish for a cocktail,” Garcia says, noting they plan to feature tequila and mezcal flights.
Speaking to the root importance of the holiday, Bravo says, “Celebrating and remembering the dead is a very important and healthy part of many cultures and helps us also appreciate and celebrate life.”
Find more local Day of the Dead celebrations at Lolita’s, La Milpa and Juan More Taco.
