Dave Graziano of Yellow Umbrella Provisions (Photo by Jay Paul)
If you’ve shopped at Yellow Umbrella Provisions, the Patterson Avenue market with a sweeping selection of seafood, meats and local goods, you’ve likely seen Dave Graziano. Considered the backbone of the operation, the South Side native known for his words of wisdom has been helming the shop for over a decade, earning the nickname “Grandpa” from co-workers and a reputation among customers for his character and charisma.
Richmond magazine: How long have you been at Yellow Umbrella Provisions?
Dave Graziano: I’ve been there 12 years. It opened in 1979 just on the side of the road. We have a picture in the store of the original stand, and it has the little yellow umbrella, that’s where the name came from. If he would open his yellow umbrella; he was open. George [Whitby, the founder] started selling out of a station wagon on the weekends, then they got a little spot, then Dave, the son, started working there and expanded it. It takes time, you have to have that sound foundation, and we don’t waver from what we do. We have people from South Side, Powhatan, Glen Allen, Short Pump, Williamsburg, Charlottesville that come here with big-a-- coolers and load ’em up and take ’em. The Browns bought it three years ago. They’re good, thoughtful people. I’m the long-hauler, and [Manager] Travis [Marshall] has been there forever, but most of the crew, most of the kitchen staff, once they get there, they stay. I run the kitchen; when they bought the business I was the fish guy, I was behind the counter.
RM: What’s your background?
Graziano: I was born and raised in South Side and went to Benedictine. I’ve been on South Side my whole life; I tell them I only cross the river to work. [Laughs] My brother worked at Charley’s, and I started washing dishes, then did prep work and worked my way up. After some years, I went to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park [New York] and graduated in ’97. I came back here and was working at Stonewall Market on Grove Avenue. They did what Yellow Umbrella does without the seafood side. Small business is the only thing I’ve ever been affiliated with.
I’m also a member of Ben’s Friends; I’m in recovery. I’ve got 11 years. It’s given me a whole new perspective; it’s why I don’t worry about anything. Most guys like me don’t make it this far. I’m a 15-year-old 54-year-old. There’s an old Sicilian saying, “You only live once, but if you do it right, it’s more than enough.” The cool thing about Ben’s Friends, it shows people that come in there who are like, “I can’t work in the restaurant business and be sober,” that you can.
RM: What’s an average day like at Yellow Umbrella?
Graziano: It takes a lot of preparation, and I’ll spend most of my day facilitating. I kind of know every area and when a department needs help. I do all the ordering. We see over 2,000 people a week. I’ve developed a lot of heartfelt relationships with customers. There’s people that come in there two to three times a week and people that come in on Saturdays and will be there for 45 minutes. My 16-year-old works there now, and my 20-year-old used to come in and bag groceries. Yellow Umbrella is a big part of my life; it’s more than just punching the clock and getting a check. When we had my dad’s wake, at the second part of the service, the whole Yellow Umbrella crew comes walking in. Stuff like that, it’s what we have over there. My cousin says, “You hear the term ‘work family’ thrown around a lot, but I just saw it.” That was five years ago, and it still chokes me up.
RM: Why do you think you’re considered such a pivotal force at the shop?
Graziano: People will be like, “You’re the face of Yellow Umbrella,” but it’s everybody in there, even the goofballs; there’s no one part people are coming for. Some people come in because they want the fish, meat, lobster rolls, but other people want fresh baked goods or chicken salad or Manakintowne greens — a million moving parts, and each is just as important as the next.
