From a Basque-inspired escape in Jackson Ward to comfort food that feels like a warm embrace, we present our collection of the 25 best restaurants in Richmond for 2019. We ate our way through the region, hand-picking new gems that have become a part of our regular dining rotation and revisiting timeless institutions that have remained favorites.
On the following pages you will find places that have paved the way and remind us to reflect on the dawn of Richmond dining alongside those that are pushing culinary boundaries, showing us how far it can go. Our list represents restaurants that are doing it right — from service and consistency to memorable meals that conjure memorable moments.
With a burgeoning class size, choosing just 25 was a feat. For the sake of narrowing the field, we did not consider counter-service restaurants, spots that don’t offer dinner or ones that opened after July 31, 2019. Sit back and relish these standouts from a crowded, ever-growing and talented field. Come hungry.
BEST FOR SHARING
Restaurant Adarra
618 N. First St., 804-477-3456
THE CUISINE: Loosely Spanish-inspired small plates. Think pintxos, stuffed squid, roasted olives and jamon Ibérico.
KEY FACE: Lyne Doetzer, sommelier and one-half of Adarra’s restaurant power couple along with chef Randall Doetzer, is usually working the floor. Ask her about her favorite bottles.
THE MOOD: Intimate and sophisticated, but convivial.
BEST FOR: A double date or a night out with a small group of friends so you can order plenty of dishes and split a bottle or two of wine.
IDEAL MEAL: Tuna conserva and roasted olives to start, followed by the seasonal fish stew. Pair it with one of the fun, low-intervention Old World or natural wines from Adarra’s frequently changing list.
—Laura Sant
Corn custard with shiitake, crab and shredded egg yolk at Longoven (Photo by Justin Chesney)
MOST LIKE TO APPEAR IN BON APPETIT
Longoven
2939 W. Clay St., 804-308-3497
BEST FOR: An evening when you can dedicate a few hours to a thoughtful adventure through the multicourse tasting menu.
THE CUISINE: Strikingly beautiful dishes ebb and flow with the seasons, and everything is executed with flawless attention to detail. Expect to find mushrooms and tinges of Japanese influence.
KEY FACES: The gastronomic threesome of culinary prowess — owners Patrick Phelan, the tweezer tycoon; his wife and pastry empress Megan Fitzroy Phelan; and fermentation mastermind Andrew Manning
INSIDER TIP: Flock to the patio during warmer months — the bar bites remind you that Longoven can also be cool and casual.
WHAT YOU’LL LOVE: How there’s nothing else like it in Richmond.
—Eileen Mellon
BEST AT SETTING THE STANDARD
Acacia Mid-town
2601 W. Cary St., 804-562-0138
THE CUISINE: Serving dishes focused on the freshest ingredients for over 20 years, Acacia is an “eat local” pioneer.
KEY FACES: Dale and Aline Reitzer run the back and front of the house, respectively. Dale has nurtured and mentored some of Richmond’s finest culinary talent while continuing to turn out innovative dishes. Aline, founder of Richmond Restaurant Week, consistently delivers top-notch service.
BEST FOR: Seafood — soft-shell crabs, crab cakes, ceviche, rockfish and white anchovies with radicchio are favorites.
INSIDER TIP: Take advantage of the three-course prix fixe menu ($27 Monday to Thursday all night and 5:30 to 6:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday), as well as half-price wine by the bottle on Tuesdays.
—John Haddad
MOST STRIKING PRESENTATION
Aloi
3103 W. Leigh St., 804-355-5555
THE CUISINE: An alloy of umami and the harvest, showcasing an alchemist’s dexterity with fish. Anchovy puree underscores miso-marinated halibut with crisp cucumber, and sweet onion consommé warms steelhead trout over roasted corn — but don’t expect these specific spellbinders. The kitchen conjures seasonality.
THE MOOD: Music flows from above Aloi’s entrance, ushering you inside the exotic bunker where undulating wood ripples through the ceiling and art hangs on dimly lit walls.
WHAT YOU'LL LIKE: Eating with your eyes — the plating is gorgeous.
INSIDER TIP: Cocktail hour on the secluded rear patio offers discounted tipples, fragrant bowls of mussels, a clutch of airy bone-marrow beignets.
—Genevelyn Steele
The dining room at Brenner Pass (Photo by Alexis Courtney)
MOST LIKE A CELEBRITY CHEF
Brenner Pass
3200 Rockbridge St. Suite 100, 804-658-9868
THE CUISINE: Alpine-inspired dishes, including rustic cheese fondue and house-made charcuterie, served in a space that feels more like a trendy big-city restaurant than little old RVA. James Beard Award-nominated chef/co-owner Brittanny Anderson has appeared on “Iron Chef America” and often hosts visiting chefs for special dinners at Brenner.
WHAT YOU’LL LOVE: The elegant simplicity. Take the oeufs mayonnaise, literally a hard-boiled egg with house-made mayo — only two ingredients, yet it’s stunningly memorable.
INSIDER TIP: Order a glass (or a bottle) of the Le Morget. Blended exclusively for Brenner Pass, this Swiss white is one of a few wines exported from Switzerland.
—Piet E. Jones
BEST AT BEING EFFORTLESSLY COOL
Saison
23 W. Marshall St., 804-269-3689
THE CUISINE: Hearty, seasonal new American fare that pays homage to both Latin American and Southern foodways.
KEY FACES: Justin Ayotte, the restaurant’s beverage director and co-owner, and Sophia Kim, Richmond’s hometown hero who graced the national stage by winning the Woodford Reserve Manhattan Experience cocktail competition, are both often found behind the bar.
THE MOOD: Cozy and hip. You’ll find friends meeting for a happy hour drink, couples on dates and regulars chatting at the bar.
INSIDER TIP: Don't miss their Sunday fried chicken night, with some of the best fried chicken in the city at just $8.
DRINK PICK: Anything from the inventive, oft-changing cocktail list.
—LS
MOST UNDER THE RADAR
Belmont Food Shop
27 N. Belmont Ave., 804-358-7467
THE AMBIANCE: A snug dining room with worn wood tables and a prominent eight-seater bar makes dining here an intimate, cozy experience.
IDEAL FOR: A date or a solo night at the bar, where you’ll be greeted warmly and tended to unobtrusively, however long you choose to linger.
INSIDER TIP: In an effort to be open on Monday so hospitality pros can have a nice repast on their day off, BFS is closed on Tuesday. We always forget, but you don’t have to.
BEST FOR: The classics. Tuck into a green salad, simple and right, or the roast chicken, a litmus test for chefs and one that owner Mike Yavorsky nails every time. Served with creamy spoonbread, it’s a menu staple that’s always there when you need it.
—Stephanie Ganz
Roasted skate chop with sweet potato curry and rice grits at Alewife (Photo by Tyler Darden)
MOST LIKELY TO DIVE DEEP
Alewife
3120 E. Marshall St., 804-325-3426
THE CUISINE: Chef-owner Lee Gregory’s solo venture yields unexpected fruits from Mid-Atlantic seas: smelts, skate and the “trash fish” alewife, a Chesapeake Bay throwback.
THE MOOD: A busy port o’ call, minimally outfitted with a token tiki and a bulbous, nautical mirror. Most of the atmosphere comes from the historic building’s bones, which seem to emit the kitchen’s energy as if a secret portal to seafaring delicacies.
WHAT YOU’LL LOVE: Brunch sails around the world. Try skate chops with red-eye gravy or a rolled omelet with rock shrimp and tobiko herb salad.
DRINK PICK: Pair oysters or ceviche with a stellar Rangpur G&T scented with orange blossoms, or steer toward one of the many low-tannin red wines.
—GS
A Reuben served during lunch at Dinamo (Photo by Jay Paul)
FRESHEST FACE OF THE VASAIO EMPIRE
Dinamo
821 W. Cary St., 804-678-9706
THE CUISINE: A beautiful mashup of Jewish and Italian food, from Reubens to broccoletti and provolone sausage with polenta and beans. Dishes tend to be simple, rustic and slightly more veg-forward than sister restaurants Edo’s Squid and Mamma ’Zu.
THE MOOD: Lively, casual and intimate, with futuristic decor.
WHAT YOU’LL LOVE: Everything is made with such fresh ingredients that the restaurant doesn’t even have a walk-in refrigerator.
BEST FOR: When you’re craving something homey.
IDEAL MEAL: It’s hard to go wrong, but you can’t beat mussels marinara and a glass of wine at the bar. And when it’s on the menu, don’t sleep on a big plate of their impossibly creamy, tender cabbage (just trust us).
—LS
Full Kee owner Helen Tan (left) and her daughter Fiona Chau with beef chow fun and deep fried spicy shrimp, scallops and squid (Photo by Jay Paul)
MOST LIKELY TO PUSH BOUNDARIES
Full Kee
6400 Horsepen Road, 804-673-2233
THE CUISINE: Light-years beyond your typical Chinese restaurant.
BEST FOR: Testing your culinary limits. Where else in Richmond can you order Cantonese delicacies like duck tongue?
ALSO BEST FOR: Serving familiar Chinese dishes, authentically. Not everyone seeks the unfamiliar, and Full Kee’s lo mein, chow mein and fried rice dishes deliver accessibility that’s several steps above the norm.
INSIDER TIP: Ask questions. During their busy brunch, it can be difficult to determine what the rolling dim sum cart bestows. Service may seem fast-paced, but they will happily reveal what’s inside each delectable dumpling.
DON’T MISS: Divine deep-fried spicy soft-shell crab.
—PEJ
MOST WELL-ROUNDED
Heritage
1627 W. Main St., 804-353-4060
THE CUISINE: Heritage relies on the bounty of local producers to create an eclectic menu where Chef Joe Sparatta draws heavily on the culinary traditions of Virginia, Italy and Japan.
KEY FACES: Joe and his wife and co-owner Emilia Sparatta — a hospitality yin and yang. Lindsey Scheer helms the bar, garnering a 2019 Best Bartender Elby Award for her craft.
DON’T MISS: Some of the most cleverly named and curated cocktails.
BEST FOR: The overall experience. Unobtrusive, yet all-knowing, the service shines every step of the way, from drinks to dessert.
INSIDER TIP: The pasta is made in house, and it’s sublime. Unique ingredients make for memorable, not-so-typical Italian fare.
—JH
Pasta puttanesca at Edo’s Squid (Photo by Justin Chesney)
MOST WORTH THE WAIT
Edo’s Squid
411 N. Harrison St., 804-864-5488
THE CUISINE: Classic red-sauce Italian heaven: spaghetti all’ amatriciana, whole branzino, and squid salad with white beans and arugula.
THE MOOD: Lively and a bit chaotic inside the second-floor, brick-lined eatery — expect a significant wait during peak times.
BEST FOR: A date where you’re more interested in eavesdropping on the diners sitting nearby than in hearing what your partner is saying; a group dinner where you can feast family-style on white linen tabletops in the classic Italian manner.
IDEAL MEAL: Dinner at the big table with five friends passing around perfectly executed, Italian delights like scungilli salad, broccoletti drenched in olive oil and garlic, penne puttanesca, and shrimp fra diavolo. Oh, and Chianti — lots of Chianti.
—LS
MOST EGGCELLENT
Dutch & Co.
400 N. 27th St., 804-643-8824
THE CUISINE: Truly seasonal fare with global flair.
THE MOOD: Intimate and intricate. From the miniature embellished clothespins on the bread basket to the tiny tasting dishes, every detail is exact and intentional.
KEY FACES: Partners in business and life, Michelle and Caleb Shriver are always present. She attentively presides over every aspect of the front of the house, while he rocks it out in the kitchen.
INSIDER TIP: Every night from 5 to 10 p.m., they offer a $30 prix fixe menu for three courses. Indulge in the famed Perfect Egg and its crispy rye exterior, then move to a hunk of monkfish with bright and acidic succotash. Find your happy ending in the honey pot, an amalgamation of crunchy and sweet panna cotta with crumbly granola.
—Robey Martin
MOST LIKELY TO IMPRESS
Lemaire
101 W. Franklin St., 804-649-4629
THE CUISINE: Chef Patrick Willis’ upscale nod to Southern-inspired dining and Virginia ingredients is delivered inside the nearly 125-year-old Jefferson Hotel.
BEST FOR: An evening to remember — the grand dining room and white tablecloths scream elegance. The elevated yet approachable menu is topped only by the attentive service.
INSIDER TIP: Happy hour diners can indulge in three appetizers for $25 (except in December) such as oysters paired with champagne mignonette, fried deviled eggs and a cheese plate. Start the weekend with $5 Old Fashioned Fridays, and don’t be surprised to spot VCU students and local pols rubbing elbows.
KEY FACE: General Manager Chauncey Jenkins sets the bar for RVA hospitality.
—PEJ
Kala chana chaat at Lehja (Photo by Jay Paul)
MOST WELCOMING CHEF-OWNER
Lehja
11800 W. Broad St., Suite 910, 804-364-1111
ORDER: Any naan, though Sunny Baweja, Lehja’s James Beard Award-nominated chef-owner, will tell you the garlic variety is the most popular. Other notable dishes include Pondicherry duck, featuring shredded duck with a hint of peppery spice, and Andhra chicken curry.
WHAT YOU’LL LOVE: Ample parking at Short Pump Town Center, uber-knowledgeable service.
DRINK PICK: Anything from their impressive wine list, which includes bottles from India.
INSIDER TIP: Chaat is a type of savory Indian street fare, and Lehja serves one daily. Ranging from large chunks of blue crab speckled with pomegranate seeds to fried translucent spinach leaves that are lightly dressed, the ever-changing offerings are a must-try.
—RM
MOST PERSONALITY
L’Opossum
626 China St., 804-918-6028
THE CUISINE: Fancy yet soul-baring French fare with a Southern bent that has diners leaning into their plates as if they’re sharing secrets.
THE MOOD: L’Opossum’s homoeroticism-meets-1970s-Americana vibe matches Proust’s definition of style: “The revelation of the particular universe which each of us sees but which is not seen by others.”
WHAT YOU’LL LOVE: Like an artsy dinner party, escargots and ham biscuits arrive on decorative china placed atop an elaborate, Warhol-print tabletop.
INSIDER TIP: Skip OpenTable, which offers limited seatings, and call for reservations.
KEY FACE: Cocktail captain William Seidensticker, a quick-witted 25-year industry veteran with a dry sense of humor.
—GS
Tuna tataki at Umi Sushi Bistro (Photo by Julianne Tripp)
BEST STRIP MALL SURPRISE
Umi Sushi Bistro
11645 W. Broad St., 804-360-3336
THE AMBIANCE: A chic and sexy sushi outpost that feels more like SoHo than Short Pump. The dim blue lights, plush seats and metal chopsticks lend to a sleek vibe.
BEST FOR: A date who will go halfsies with you on a parade of sashimi and rolls.
IDEAL MEAL: Start with tuna tataki, silky ribbons of gently seared ahi drizzled with ponzu sauce, and sake. Order a melange of sashimi and specialty rolls like The Richmond, crisp tempura shrimp and avocado roll topped with eel and sprinkled with roe.
WHAT YOU’LL LOVE: Seamless service. Informative without being overbearing, servers guide you through the menu with care.
INSIDER TIP: Inquire about daily specials, which recently featured buttery, highly desirable toro tuna.
—EM
A classic shrimp cocktail at Can Can Brasserie (Photo by Jay Paul)
MOST JOIE DE VIVRE
Can Can Brasserie
3120 W. Cary St., 804-358-7274
THE CUISINE: Casual, classic French food is served all day long, from croissants with your café au lait for breakfast to croque-monsieurs and French onion soup for lunch to plats du jour that rotate through classic French preparations every evening.
THE DECOR: Flooded with natural light and breezes from an open front on nice days, this boisterous and lively spot features a lovely bar, beautiful tile work, fresh flowers and white tablecloths.
BEST FOR: Morning meetings, long lunches and romantic dinners. It’s a community meeting spot, and as the light shifts throughout the day so does the vibe. It's a place for everyone, anytime.
INSIDER TIP: Can Can dancers kick up their heels on the bar for Bastille Day/Fête Nationale on July 14.
—JH
Grandma’s noodles at Peter Chang China Cafe (Photo by Julianne Tripp)
BEST USE OF A LAZY SUSAN
Peter Chang China Cafe
11424 W. Broad St., 804-364-1688
THE CUISINE: Szechuan chili oil perfumes the air, wafting from a bowl of hand-pulled Grandma’s Noodles.
BEST FOR: Your entire brood. With Lazy Susans, ample room to spread out and portions big enough to share, this is a smart pick for a crowd.
YOU’LL LOVE: The cartoonishly large scallion bubble pancakes that bounce to your table joined by a little ramekin of curry dipping sauce. Embrace your inner Wonka as you stare down these silly looking but seriously tasty appetizers.
INSIDER TIP: Take your leftover scallion pancake home and use the now deflated flavor balloon to wrap up thinly sliced beef for a quick riff on a Taiwanese classic.
—SG
Matzoh ball soup at Perly’s (Photo by Jay Paul)
BEST FOR TAKING OUT-OF-TOWNERS
Perly’s
111 E. Grace St., 804-912-1560
THE CUISINE: Chef Kevin Roberts and the crew at this Richmond institution give Jewish deli classics a modern spin.
WHAT YOU’LL LOVE: Sipping coffee out of diner mugs or drinking a Bloody Miriam rimmed with everything bagel seasoning.
WHAT YOU WON’T: That you can’t make reservations. (Though it’s also something you secretly love them for.)
BEST FOR: A late breakfast after spending the wee hours rehashing decade-old memories with visiting friends. Perly’s is also a solid go-to birthday spot.
ORDER: Where to begin? Latkes. The famed fish board. Matzoh ball soup. Schlubby Fries. A breakfast or deli sammie. Babka. Do it all and live your best Yiddish life.
—EM
Shagbark’s stylish dining room (Photo by Justin Chesney)
BEST SOUTHERN STYLE
Shagbark
4901 Libbie Mill East Blvd., Suite 175, 804-358-7424
IDEAL MEAL: You’ve come for Walter Bundy’s reimagining of Southern classics, so surrender to the concept via Up South fried green tomatoes with Edwards Smokehouse bacon, or try the Compass Winds sorghum molasses-glazed duck, which Bundy serves with a Hubs peanut-studded rice. And don’t you dare skip dessert. The honey gelato, made using Bundy’s own supply, is worth it.
INSIDER TIP: When the weather allows, Shaggy B’s patio is the perfect happy hour hideaway, with dollar oysters on the half shell and $6 classic cocktails.
THE AMBIANCE: The devil dwells in the details of Shagbark’s meticulous interior, with its shagbark hickory partitions, sumptuous lighting and deer-antler chandeliers — a nod to the avid outdoorsman in the kitchen.
—SG
Stella’s ambiance feels similar to a large family gathering. (Photo by Jay Paul)
MOST OVERDUE FOR JAMES BEARD LOVE
Stella’s
1012 Lafayette St., 804-358-2011
THE CUISINE: Bold and comforting. Large plates of unctuous pastitsio and No. 5 pasta (the number refers to the pasta’s size), traditional Greek specialties loaded with cheese and noodles. Flaky pastry triangles with various fillings — spinach, spiced ground beef and tart cheese.
WHAT YOU’LL LOVE: Stella’s ambiance feels similar to that of a large family gathering. It’s loud, a little cramped and happy. Dishes are super shareable.
BEST SEAT IN THE HOUSE: The corner of the bar near the window. Head in for Meze Ora, a happy hour with great specials, and stay to watch the crowds arrive.
WHAT YOU MIGHT NOT KNOW: Why matriarch Stella Dikos doesn’t have a James Beard Award nomination yet? We don’t know, either.
—RM
Cauliflower kale pizza at Tazza Kitchen (Photo courtesy Derek Bennion)
MOST APPROACHABLE
Tazza Kitchen
Multiple locations; tazzakitchen.com
WHAT TO EAT: The pizzas or anything from their central brick oven. Think charred cauliflower with pops of fresh mint; cast-iron-cooked goat cheese, gooey and tart; or smoked pork nachos.
THE AMBIANCE: Chic, modern and edgy. High bar tables in front, low dining tables throughout. Open kitchens with direct views of the action.
WHAT YOU'LL LOVE: The Short Pump, Midlothian and Scott’s Addition locations have sizable patios that are perfect for three seasons, thanks to heaters and fans.
INSIDER TIP: They have a few locations in the Carolinas, if you happen to be traveling and want a little taste of home.
—RM
Guay Teaw Sukhothai at Temple (Photo by Kate Thompson Feucht)
BEST FOR A GLOBAL LUNCH EXPERIENCE
Temple
2713 W. Broad St., 804-367-4990
THE CUISINE: Temple explores Laos and its bordering countries with dishes like Guay Teaw Sukhothai, a soupy frenzy that demands your spoon dip back for slurp after slurp of red-lacquered barbecue pork, house-made egg noodles, peanuts and scallions. On a cold afternoon, nothing beats the velvety Jok Gai, a steaming rice congee with a runny egg, crispy dried pork and earthy shiitakes.
DRINK PICKS: A sparkling negroni (on tap!) is brightened with a fuschia-hued hibiscus flower. Their Muy Thai Punch and red and white sangrias are fun, fruity and rum-forward, perfect for sipping with something spicy.
INSIDER TIP: This smart, quick spot features a ridiculously good midday deal — a $12 boxed lunch complete with appetizer, entree and drink.
—SG
Fried chicken with mac and cheese at Mama J’s (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
MOST LIKELY TO FEEL LIKE HOME
Mama J’s
415 N. First St., 804-225-7449
THE CUISINE: Soul food with a smile in the heart of Jackson Ward.
KEY FACE: Mama herself, Velma Johnson. If you're there when she is, let her share a story about growing up in Richmond. Maybe she'll let a family recipe slip.
IDEAL MEAL: Mac and cheese and perfectly flaky and seasoned catfish, or the pork chops that come baked or grilled: order one of each. Finish with a slice of Mama J's homemade cake, especially if there’s lemon or coconut-pineapple on deck.
BEST FOR: That Sunday night when you need comfort food to prepare you for the week. Mama J's exudes a family feel — they weren’t nominated for outstanding service by the James Beard Foundation for nothing.
—Scott Wise
