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Lost Letter’s tiramisu (Photo by Justin Chesney)
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Lattes and buñuelos at Cafe & Sabor (Photo by April Greer)
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Crispy snapper, Sea Island red peas and Carolina Gold rice at Alewife (Photo by Justin Chesney)
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Perly’s on Grace Street (Photo by April Greer)
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Penny’s Wine Shop chef Emmanuel “Manny” Baiden (Photo by Justin Chesney)
A snapshot of a crowded, talented field, our list features Richmond-area restaurants that we can recommend without worry, spots that continue to make lasting impressions and keep us coming back. We revisited established eateries and sampled newer, noteworthy additions (including one pop-up that will soon put down roots), focusing mostly on places that offer dinner and that opened before July 31, 2023. From reliable service to consistently captivating meals, these restaurants represent the best places to eat right now.
*Check out the sister establishments of these starred restaurants, worthy of inclusion on this list in their own right.
Adarra
618 N. First St., restaurantadarra.com
Seasonal, Basque-inspired food and a staggering collection of organic, biodynamic wines work in lockstep at Adarra, as do husband-and-wife owners Randall and Lyne Doetzer. It’s not a proper trip to this warm, mood-setting restaurant without pintxos gildas (pickled peppers stuffed with anchovies and olives) paired with amontillado sherry and a plate of the delightfully messy gambas al ajillo (head-on garlic shrimp). Be sure to order from the sweeping collection of Spanish conservas, particularly the sardines in butter. Adarra moves to the former Mamma Zu’s building once renovations are complete. —Stephanie Ganz
Quark gnudi with vichyssoise, trout roe, dill and crispy alliums at Metzger Bar & Butchery (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
Metzger Bar & Butchery*
801 N. 23rd St., metzgerbarandbutchery.com
Led by Richmond newcomer Emma Taylor, Metzger’s kitchen serves up German-influenced game and offal as well as some the city’s most appetizing and thoughtful veg-centric dishes. If you see cabbage on the menu, order it and be instantly transformed into a fanatic. Their Sunday brunch boasts dreamy eggs in cocotte and an exceptional bloody mary. The first in “Top Chef” alum Brittanny Anderson’s restaurant empire, Metzger has two sibling concepts equally deserving of a stop: the Alpine-forward Brenner Pass and the adjacent good-time cocktail lounge Black Lodge. —SG
Lehja
11800 W. Broad St., Suite 190, lehja.com
Read it and weep: The menu at Lehja leaves diners bereft that they can’t order six entrees each. Rousing, flavor-packed Indian fare that integrates surprising but beloved elements such as blue crab, duck confit and ghost pepper make Lehja stand out not just in Richmond but in America, and it’s no wonder that chef Sunny Baweja has been a James Beard Award semifinalist. Order the coconut curry scallops, the duck salli boti and the paneer-asparagus lazzatdar. Sop up every drop with homemade naan, and don’t miss their nationally recognized wine list. —Bird Cox
Lemaire
101 W. Franklin St., lemairerestaurant.com
Upon entering the Beaux Arts architectural marvel that is The Jefferson Hotel, amble through the marbled corridors and past statues celebrating alligators that once idled in the hotel fountain. Then, step into the white-tableclothed Lemaire. It’s a tightrope walk between anachronistic and iconic, one that the AAA Four-Diamond recipient executes with sure footing. To wit, an elder’s birthday dinner gets fitted into Lemaire’s Franklin Street atrium. The tables are spacious, the acoustics quiet and plates are expertly bedecked with jumbo lump crabcakes and beef tenderloin. Over at the bar, crystal clinks as groomsmen toast raucously. —Genevelyn Steele
ZZQ*
3201 W. Moore St., zzqrva.com
Slow-cooked Texas-style barbecue enjoyed a warm reception in RVA when ZZQ debuted in 2018. The Scott’s Addition smokehouse is known for its long but fast-moving lines, punctuated by bites of burnt ends and co-owner Alex Graf’s smiling service. Open Wednesday through Sunday, there’s always a beefy bonus in store at ZZQ, from beef-and-cheddar sandwiches on Thursdays to Pastrami Fridays and smoked prime rib on Sundays. Real fans stay glued to social media for specials such as lacquered, spice-crusted bacon ribs or pulled smoked lamb. This year, ZZQ expanded its footprint with Eazzy Burger, serving up black Angus burgers, hot dogs and fries unrivaled in the city, all from the backyard they share with neighboring business and longtime friends Ardent Craft Ales. —SG
Grilled quail, stewed peppers, broccolini and polenta from Lost Letter (Photo by Justin Chesney)
Lost Letter
2939 W. Clay St., lostletterrva.com
Leaning into fare from Italy’s Piedmont region, the subtly romantic refuge from the former Longoven team has earned a reputation for crave-worthy antipasti including the acciughe al verde (anchovies in salsa verde) or la tur al forno and speck, a baked lobe of tomino cheese wrapped in cured Italian ham. Lost Letter’s impeccable, intuitive service leaves guests feeling cozy and cared for, a rare feat in today’s dining world. Under the direction of sommelier Grayum Vickers, the wine list presents something for everyone, from easy-drinking whites to after-dinner amaros. —SG
L’Opossum
626 China St., lopossum.com
The world needs more dark shadows, places where the denizens of dusk, line cooks and floor staff, openly fly their fine-dining freak flags. Here, dishes are queer, so get used to it. You’ll not hear praise of L’O that doesn’t include the homoerotically named Beef Swellington, a filet with truffled duxelles, or oysters Rockefeller misted tableside with absinthe. Both are attended by statues of David tuned to a ’70s hi-fi. Chef and proprietor David Shannon is Richmond’s John Waters, if Waters were a chef de cuisine. Shannon takes workaday favorites, such as Bundt cake and mac and cheese, and transforms them with his strangely beautiful, skillful techniques. —GS
Midlothian Chef’s Kitchen
11501 Busy St., midlothianchefskitchen.com
One expects nothing less than pure finesse from David Dunlap, who has cooked in multiple Michelin-starred restaurants and studied with some of the most renowned chefs in the world (ahem, The Inn at Little Washington’s Patrick O’Connell) — and he delivers, while defying the expectation that a dining experience of this caliber can’t be accessible and affable. Let the sherry in the chestnut soup dance across your palate while chatting with your server about wines of the world. Revel in the genius of coconut granita’s ability to enliven a beet salad, and spend an entire visit working your way through the appetizers; you won’t regret it. —BC
The Roosevelt*
623 N. 25th St., rooseveltrva.com
Over a decade into its journey, The Roosevelt still manages to charm guests. The Church Hill mainstay has experienced a renaissance through its executive chef, Chesterfield native Leah Branch, backed by Bar Manager Zach McRoy (check out his amaro program) and Wine Director Troy Hancock. The menu is a playful projection of Branch’s upbringing, local produce and dishes guided by the African diaspora, with thoughtful touches from an Urfa chile pepper gloss on fried catfish to cracklings sprinkled on tobacco-smoked pork butt and served with Deb’s Nana’s collards. Also swing by Laura Lee’s in South Side, another neighborhood eatery operated by Roosevelt co-owner Kendra Feather. —Eileen Mellon
Dinamo
821 W. Cary St., dinamorichmond.com
Dinamo devotees flock to the Cary Street restaurant to experience a party of Jewish, Italian and Mediterranean cuisine grooving in sync under one roof. Squid ink pasta, chopped liver crostini and white pizza are popular standing orders, along with fleeting specialties from soft-shells to ramp gnocchi and tortellini en brodo. Co-owned by Ed Vasaio and Mya Anitai, the homey hole in the wall hit a decade in business this year and moves through the motions with an ease diners can feel. Want a reservation? Pick up the phone. —EM
Conejo
5280 Patterson Ave., conejococina.com
Fresh-milled heirloom corn is the backbone of this elegant, modern Mexican haven, and its earthy goodness comes through in every painstakingly refined taco, tostada (you’re obliged to try the tuna) and enchilada. Start with a gorgeous rockfish ceviche accentuated by apple and serrano chiles, then dive into the rich carne en su jugo, a hanger steak with canary beans and bacon (and, of course, housemade tortillas with grains milled by Sub Rosa Bakery), or melty-dippy quesabirria tacos. The herbaceous and spicy cucumber-jalapeno margarita is one of the best margs in the city. Tight, friendly service abounds. —BC
Full Kee dim sum (Photo by Katie Brown)
Full Kee
6400 Horsepen Road
The clamor of dim sum carts rolling through steam clouds is part of a Sunday-afternoon tradition. Families gather around large, round tables, aiming their chopsticks across the Lazy Susan to grab bites of dumpling, Chinese broccoli, Hong Kong noodles and ribs before the next spin. Open teapots signal for more delicate chamomile tea with rock sugar. Though Full Kee has the largest dim sum menu in the area on weekends, it’s the chef’s seafood and vegetable specials you don’t want to skip. Try the fresh jumbo scallops with black bean sauce and stir-fried leek flower. —GS
Grisette*
3119 E. Marshall St., grisetterva.com
Known for its outrageously delicious chicken liver mousse, this French-tinged Church Hill haunt stays packed with regulars and revelry. Work your way through its deftly selected smorgasbord — three meats, three cheeses and plenty of pickled fixin’s and crusty bread — and stick around for a best-in-class version of steak frites. The Grisette team is always plotting, so be on the lookout for notices of lobster roll pop-ups, farm dinners and wine-heavy events at sister concept Jardin. —SG
Perly’s Benny Goodman (Photo by April Greer)
Perly’s
111 E. Grace St., perlysrichmond.com
In a downtown space that has served as a culinary cornerstone since 1961 (with some changing of hands and cuisines), Perly’s riffs on Jewish delights and whips up traditional deli dishes you rarely find outside of New York. Where else in Richmond can you sit down for a nice knish and a smoked fish platter? Unmissable wild inventions by chef and co-owner Kevin Roberts include Schlubby Fries — basically the inside of a Reuben over fried potatoes — and the Chazerai Hot Dog, embellished with a fried rye pickle and egg salad. The Benny Goodman, a latke-based Benedict with salmon, poached eggs and roe, is a brunch-time standout, and dessert should always include a rainbow cookie. —BC
Lillie Pearl*
416 E. Grace St., lilliepearlrva.com
Africa, North Carolina and pure heart mingle on the plate at Lillie Pearl, in care of chef Mike Lindsey and his wife and business partner, Kimberly Love-Lindsey. Obe ata, a West African mother sauce combining chiles, tomato and onion, braises lamb shank (the dish also appears at Lindsey Food Group’s Jubilee in Manchester, in a stunning seafood hot pot). Flaky seared striped bass swims in rich, creamy-sweet lobster bisque, while sides, including creamed charred corn with slab bacon and piquant Hoppin’ John, do justice to the chef’s heritage. Dessert is dedicated to banana pudding. —BC
Blue Atlas
1000 Carlisle Ave., blueatlasrva.com
I’m skeptical about menus that seem to have something for everyone: meaty bistro classics such as steak frites, plus gluten-free and vegan dishes from the Americas, Europe, Africa and Asia. Will the Georgian flatbread with glistening soft egg yolk be as tasty as the gluten-free, vegetarian dan-dan noodles? Should I tempt fate and try the Nashville hot chicken sandwich? Yes and yes. Blue Atlas must-dos, beyond its masterfully diverse assortment of small plates, include happy hour on its Fulton Hill lawn warmed by crackling fire pits, devouring fat breakfast burritos in the a.m. and attending vegan takeover dinners. I guess you can please everyone. —GS
Owner Diego Salazar talks with a guest at Cafe & Sabor. (Photo by April Greer)
Cafe & Sabor
7102 Hull Street Road, cafesaborbakeryandrestaurant.business.site
Midlothian's bustling Cafe & Sabor dishes up warm greetings and conscientious service from baristas carving foam atop freshly roasted Colombian espresso. They’ll guide guests to the pastry counter, chockablock with dozens of housemade treasures, both savory and sweet. All are specialities from owner Diego Salazar’s native Colombia. The full-service restaurant is an ambassador of South American cuisine, from snacky buñuelos — crispy cassava flour and cheese balls — to meaty empanadas, creamy and spicy salsas, and delectable fritters. The gargantuan bandeja paisa is a groaning board of steak, eggs, plantains, avocado, pork belly, beans, corn cakes and housemade chorizo. —GS
Stella’s*
1012 Lafayette St., stellasrichmond.com
A timeless neighborhood anchor, Stella’s has embedded itself into the local dining landscape. Find antique cars parked in front of the buzzing restaurant, and inside, its matriarch and namesake, Stella Dikos, or her daughter, Katrina Giavos. From flaming saganaki (Greek cheese) to shrimp Santorini and grilled octopus — among Dikos’ favorites — rustic Greek comfort fare shines. Service is reliably enthusiastic and thoughtful. Check out another Giavos venture, Little Nickel (co-owned by Kuba Kuba’s Manny Mendez), a tropical-themed Forest Hill Avenue enclave exuding “on vacation” energy and an island-adjacent bar program. —EM
Jamaica House*
416 W. Broad St., jamaicahouserva.com
Watching the steady stream of customers getting takeout from nearly 30-year-old Jamaica House should reveal everything you need to know about how masterfully they prepare Caribbean staples. Under the ownership of Jamaica native Carena Ives, each dish at the restaurant — oxtail, whole fish, curried shrimp, jerk chicken, rum cake — comes out singing with luscious flavor and deftly balanced spice. Yes, it’s right at VCU, and it’s hard to park. Walk a mile if you have to; it’s worth it. Rice and peas or stewed cabbage are favorite sides, and hotheads can rejoice at the real-deal Scotch bonnet sauce. Get an island fix in South Richmond at Ives’ second restaurant, Carena’s Jamaican Grille. —BC
Stanley’s
2601 Park Ave., stanleysrva.com
No matter what part of town you call home, Stanley’s should be your neighborhood bar. It checks all the boxes: a fun, unpretentious vibe, killer cocktails (try the Surfer on Acid) and the most authentic cheesesteaks outside of Philly, sourcing their bread straight from the City of Brotherly Love. While the South Jersey-inspired hangout excels as a hoagie hot spot, don’t miss their wedge salad, a zippy, double head of crisp lettuce laden with pickled onions, jammy eggs, blue cheese and bacon, or a slice of tomato pie. Check Instagram for details on daily specials, intermittent pop-ups and how to score tickets for Sugo Sundays — five-course dinners that pull out all the stops. —SG
The Siren’s Song, the chef’s-choice platter at Alewife (Photo by Justin Chesney)
Alewife*
3120 E. Marshall St., alewiferva.com
Chefs Lee Gregory and Bobo Catoe Jr. have been navigating the RVADine waters together for years. Their first seafood-focused endeavor, Alewife, is a bright, modern mashup of sustainable catches — sugar toads, rainbow trout and skate wing — alongside playful cocktails. Find Sophia Kim behind the bar and sous chef Matthew Brusca in the kitchen. The Siren’s Song, a smattering of starters, is always a go-to order, but be warned: There are only a few available each night. Odyssey is the squad's more casual and spunky, yet equally enticing, West End eatery. The Patterson Avenue seafood lair offers a tight menu (they operate without an oven), great happy hour and delightful dinner rolls served with mini Bonne Maman jars of yuzu jam, sour butter and smoked trout roe. —EM
Shagbark
4901 Libbie Mill E. Blvd., shagbarkrva.com
A Wine Spectator-recognized restaurant, Shagbark runs like a well-oiled machine. Find everything grape-related but the squeeze — Burgundies and esoteric wines are affordably priced. Enjoy your meal among the hunt-themed oil paintings in the dining room or outside on the herbaceous patio, which nearly doubles the seating. A long bar decorated with cheeky decanters is nosh central, with chicken-fried seafood accompanying masterfully crafted cocktails. Here, seasonal and Southern rotations are life. Right now, dive into chef-owner Walter Bundy’s roasted pear and radicchio salad, shimmering with ginger vinaigrette, and pumpkin seed-crusted salmon, oozing bacon and butternut squash coziness, and don’t dare miss a Shagbark soup. —GS
Young Mother
Coming to 3111 W. Cary St., instagram.com/youngmotherva
Since he made his pop-up debut with Young Mother in 2021, Daniel Harthausen has hooked diners with his dynamic, umami-packed Japanese-Korean dishes. That euphoric fascination was merely elevated after he took the title in the Max cooking competition series “The Big Brunch” last year, catapulting him into the national spotlight. Harthausen will make Young Mother more permanent in 2024, with plans to take over the Carytown Cupcakes space and evolve his intimate, once-a-month dining experience into an everyday adventure. —EM
Edo’s Squid
411 N. Harrison St., edossquidrva.com
Walking up the narrow staircase, cozying up to a window seat along the exposed brick wall, sipping on Chianti from a juice glass as servers peel knobs of garlic at nearby tables — the setting screams Fellini movie, but it’s Richmond’s own Edo’s Squid. This Fan institution is old-school Italian in all the right ways. Always scout the specials list hanging on the wall, but never skip the scungilli or braised fennel. A sleeper menu item: bone-in pork chops lathered in a velvety demi-glace. —EM
Crispy confit duck leg at Heritage (Photo by Riley Goodman courtesy Heritage)
Heritage*
1627 W. Main St., heritagerva.com
There’s no wrong occasion to sample Heritage’s standout table service. It’s a casual performance of food and drink for which guests needn’t dress up. Most are in jeans, even the friendly, knowledgeable staff. There isn’t a discordant plate on the small menu, through which chef and co-owner Joe Sparatta plays a concerto to Virginia, along with nods to the East — Thai curry and crispy-skinned Sichuan duck. Cocktails veer toward the savory and aromatic — my only regret is not having sampled them all. Think of Heritage’s sister restaurant, Southbound in Bon Air — a team effort from Sparatta and Lee Gregory of Alewife — as the duo’s larger, younger, more rambunctious jam band venture across the river. —GS
Wine + Dine
Scroll below for three more must-stop eateries. While they focus on wine and present plenty of snag-worthy bottles, they also boast excellent food and easy hospitality.
Penny’s Wine Shop
405 Brook Road, pennysrva.com
Penny’s is the sort of undefinable, make-it-what-you-want spot Jackson Ward has been waiting for. A blend of Brooklyn hip, Euro chic and Richmond charisma, its owners Lance Lemon and Kristen Gardner Beal have established a neighborhood den where wines reign and food is a lively accompaniment. Bonuses: a cocktail menu of classics done right, a charcuterie selection accompanied by habit-forming Aleppo honey and bottles to go. The tiny kitchen, led by chef Emmanuel “Manny” Baiden and crew, cranks out signature dishes including succulent short ribs, arctic char with fennel and braised beans, and ricotta and plum semifreddo. —EM
Celladora Wines
111 N. Lombardy St., celladorawines.com
Patrons may pop in to Celladora for a bottle of wine and end up spending an hour soaking up the sunlight at one of its window-facing tables with a glass of whatever owner Megan Lee Hopkins is pouring at the moment. One of the shiniest hidden gems in the city is the Thursday and Friday lunch from artist, baker and chef Olivia Wilson (who painted the mural that adorns one wall of the wine shop), featuring peak-season produce from Birdhouse Farmers Market. Less hidden but no less delightful are the wine-adjacent dinner and brunch menus from chef Ben Burakoff. —SG
Friend Bar/Pizza Bones
2314 Jefferson Ave., pizzabonesrva.com
A mutable space, Pizza Bones has morphed from its early pop-up days into a destination for date night or family dinner. Owner Ashley Patino — a baker at heart previously of Sub Rosa and Tartine — has cultivated much more than another ’za shop. Come for the hot bagels on Saturday mornings, the bright and lemony ranch dipping sauce, funky sourdough pies, and damn-near-perfect chocolate chip cookies. The smaller half of the space, Friend Bar, is a showcase of naturally fermented wines. —EM