An engraving of George Washington, circa 1790 (Image courtesy The Library of Congress)
George Washington, president of the United States and military leader of the American Revolution, passed under the stone Lower Arch of the James River Canal as late-afternoon shadows gathered on Tuesday, April 12, 1791. A fellow traveler, Dr. James Currie, later reported to Thomas Jefferson that by stopwatch, the trip through the canal's Lower and Upper arches took just seven minutes and four seconds.
The stop in Richmond was part of a 3 1/2-month, 1,900-mile Southern tour that Washington, then 59, took as part victory lap, part listening tour and part charm offensive. The expedition completed his desire to see all the states within the initial two years of his presidency. Washington left Vice President John Adams in charge and, on March 21, departed the temporary capital of Philadelphia.
The canal, a passion project of Washington’s, became a highlight of the trip. He believed a canal connecting Virginia to the Ohio River Valley would not only boost trade, but encourage a national identity through commerce. The new country did not yet possess a solidifying identity — except in the president himself. Where he appeared, so did the notion of a nation.
Washington alternately rode in a deluxe white carriage and on the back of his imposing white charger, Prescott. His entourage included two enslaved men from his Philadelphia house, Paris and Giles, though illness forced Giles to leave the journey at Mount Vernon. Trusted coachman John Fagan, personal secretary William Jackson, and Washington’s longtime valet, the aging slave Billy Lee, filled out the traveling party. Fagan and his assistants were outfitted in red livery.
North Carolina historian Warren Bingham, in a recent account of Washington’s journey, writes that the president’s entourage “often departed between 4 [and] 6 in the morning … and traveled around 25 to 40 miles in a day.” Prior to entering a town, the more than 6-foot-tall Washington mounted Prescott to provide a memorable sight for the throngs who came to see him.
(Click upper-right corner to expand) Image credits: Carrington courtesy New York Public Library; Canal Lower Arch by Phil Riggan; all other images courtesy Library of Congress)
Washington’s canal ride took place during the second day of his Richmond visit. He had arrived on the afternoon of April 11, saluted by cannon fire and greeted by Gov. Beverley Randolph and dignitaries. The State Capitol, designed by Jefferson, received special illumination. The president noted a difference from his 1784 visit: “The buildings in this place have [increased] a good deal since I was here last, but they are not of the best kind.”
Col. Edward Carrington, described by historian Archibald Henderson as a “tall and massive figure,” extended hospitality to the president and his party at an estate on the southeast corner of 11th and Clay streets. Washington had appointed Carrington, a distinguished Revolutionary War officer, to be director of the Virginia revenue district to collect federal tax. In that capacity, Carrington conversed with the president about the implementation of a tax on distilled spirits — deemed necessary to retire war debts. Though the Virginia General Assembly condemned the tax as “intemperate and unwise” Carrington believed it could be imposed without difficulty.
Resistance proved to be stronger than expected, however. The tax pit small distillers of the western frontiers in Virginia and Pennsylvania against the larger eastern concerns and led to harassment of federal revenue collectors and the threat of armed insurrection. This became known as “The Whiskey Rebellion,” which tested Washington’s second administration.
Between public appearances, Washington on April 12 wrote to his personal secretary Tobias Lear in Philadelphia concerning a Pennsylvania law that freed slaves after six months’ residency. In an apparent effort to circumvent that law, Washington conveyed his intention to move back to Virginia two enslaved men: Paris and a favorite and expert cook, Hercules. He gave the pretext (“that may deceive both them and the public”) as Martha Washington’s return to Mount Vernon. He asked Lear to keep the matter to himself. Washington kept more than 300 enslaved Africans at Mount Vernon. He described Hercules and Paris as “dower” slaves, meaning his estate inherited them (with around 150 others) from Daniel Parke Custis, Martha Washington’s first husband, to be held in trust. Lear followed Washington’s instruction, but responded that he wouldn’t “prolong the slavery of a human being, had I not the fullest confidence that they will at some future period be liberated.” Freedom did not come quickly, though, and Hercules escaped from Mount Vernon on Feb. 22, 1797. Washington died in 1799, and Martha freed her husband’s slaves in 1801, a year before she died. (The “dower” slaves were divided among the Custis heirs after her death.)
During an April 13 evening fete at the renowned three-story Eagle Tavern, on Main Street between the present 12th and 13th streets, Washington met with the “corporation of Richmond,” that is, everybody involved with running the 5,000-person town. He continued his road trip the next morning into Manchester, greeted by cannon fire and enthusiastic crowds. Another war veteran and federal officer, David Meade Randolph (his wife, Mary, or “Molly,” rose to prominence through her domestic bible, “The Virginia Housewife”), accompanied Washington’s party to Osborne Landing, leading the Chesterfield cavalry. Additional units from Prince George and Dinwiddie counties and Petersburg swelled the ranks, kicking up massive clouds of dust that gave the president a coughing fit.
After a stop at City Point (Hopewell), Washington entered Petersburg under specially erected triumphal arches, with more booming artillery salutes. After a public dinner, he attended a ball at the Masonic hall, attended by “between 60 and 70 ladies,” he mentioned in his diary.
And then, George Washington told a lie. To avoid the dust, heat and crowds of the later morning, he said to those who inquired that he intended to leave by 8. Instead, the travelers got up and departed for North Carolina — by 5 a.m.
