Run for the Hills

When the temperatures dip, these Virginia mountain towns will warm your blood

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Winter’s short days and frigid weather make it easy to catch cabin fever. But nothing beats the seasonal blues like an activity-packed stay in a great mountain town. These five getaway destinations pair high-elevation views and luxe amenities with tasty eats and drinks for the perfect winter escape.

Paris

This tiny, historical Fauquier County community is nestled along a former wagon corridor just east of Sky Meadows State Park and about a mile from the Appalachian Trail. Sky Meadows features structures from the 1840s and offers year-round interpretive programs as well as 10.8 miles of walking trails leading hikers to stunning views of the park and village.  

The Ashby Inn dates to 1829 and occupies a two-story, whitewashed stucco Colonial adorned by ivy and century-old boxwoods. Its 10 rooms are furnished with 19th-century antiques like handpainted wardrobes, blanket chests, quilts, repurposed oil lamps and ornate wood fireplace surrounds. Historic themes are balanced by modern amenities like hammered copper sinks, granite countertops, skylights and premium mattresses. Find The Ashby’s much-celebrated eatery in a Civil War-era addition off the back of the inn. Executive chef Brian Groose dishes up a creative fusion of classic Italian and Southern cuisine crafted from local ingredients. Splurge on the decadent five-course prix fixe with wine pairings chosen by their celebrated sommelier,  Stephen Elhafdi. For more epicurean experiences off-site, the award-winning RdV Vineyards waits just 9 miles away.

Waynesboro

Serving as a gateway to both the Shenandoah National Park and Blue Ridge Parkway has inspired an ongoing renaissance in this small Shenandoah Valley city. Its newly bustling historic downtown area now brims with shops, eateries and an expanding fleet of craft spirits makers. The Iris Inn sprawls across an east-facing mountainside overlooking the town and brings sweeping views of the valley. The main lodge houses an expansive wine bar-equipped great room and quintet of lavish guest rooms, but The Iris’ six treehouse-style luxury cabins steal the show. All are dazzlingly modern and boast amenities including radiant floors, waterfall showers and screened porches with Jacuzzis. Enjoy delightful, locally sourced pub fare and an array of craft burgers in a historic urban-meets-dive bar setting downtown at The River. Follow with craft brews or cocktails in the speakeasy-themed Showroom bar at Basic City Beer Co. Catch great live bands on weekends at their in-house music venue, The Foundry.

Sperryville

This artsy, 300-person village sits 8 miles east of Skyline Drive’s Thornton Gap entrance and myriad Shenandoah Valley viewpoints. What it lacks in size it makes up for in pastoral beauty, historical architecture and a wealth of culture.   

The two-story Hopkins Ordinary overlooks Main Street and pays tribute to its 1820 origins with wraparound porches and balconies, an array of antique decor and a fabulously moody basement tavern. Its five rooms and two cottages are spacious and uniquely themed. Historic touches include 19th-century dressers, four-poster beds, cast-iron tubs, fireplaces, hardwood floors, 1920s tile showers and more. Pen Druid Brewing offers unique and lovingly crafted wild-fermented beers and natural ciders, and is located about a mile from Hopkins Ordinary. Better still, its tasting room towers over a high meadow with near-360-degree mountain views. Follow with dinner down the road at Three Blacksmiths, where husband-and-wife duo Jake and Sara Addeo dole out wildly good multicourse fine dining in an intimate, wood-rich setting.

Roseland

Rural beauty, Wintergreen Resort and 20 craft spirits destinations on the Nelson 151 scenic byway have made this pastoral mountain community a destination. Visitors can cruise and catch vistas on the nearby Blue Ridge Parkway or explore Wintergreen’s 129 skiable acres and 27 ski trails. The eight-room, European village-themed Fenton Inn is perched on a forested hillside about a mile from both the Blue Ridge Parkway and the resort. The flagship Swallow’s Nest room brings tons of custom woodwork, a private balcony and floor-to-ceiling canted windows with views of undeveloped peaks in the Jefferson National Forest. Tour scenic Rockfish Valley hot spots such as Bold Rock Cidery or Devils Backbone Brewing Company, then make a beeline for the Farmhouse at Veritas Vineyards. Executive chef Cody McGehee crafts sensational farm-driven, four-course, prix fixe dinners with wine pairings in an immaculately overhauled 19th-century farmhouse.

Roanoke

The 100,000-person city is the flagship stop along Virginia’s span of the Blue Ridge Parkway and is renowned for its outdoor recreation opportunities and culture. A 30-plus-mile greenway system crisscrosses the city, guiding cyclists to expansive downtown views from Mill Mountain Park’s 1,740-foot summit. A booming craft beer and restaurant scene rounds out the package. Fire Station One Boutique Hotel occupies a 1907 Georgian Revival firehouse in the heart of downtown. The building has been lovingly renovated to retain original elements including pressed-tin ceilings, yellow pine floors, deep-well skylights and brass firepoles. Its seven rooms are lavishly outfitted with local art, subway-tiled bathrooms and custom midcentury-style furniture, lamps and light fixtures. Find the low-key chic dining room and lounge of Stock Bistro & Bar (whose sister location opened in Richmond this year) on the first floor of the hotel. Chef Jeff Farmer offers a menu of upscale Scandinavian- and Nordic-inspired dishes that change weekly. Post up at Lucky Restaurant’s famed bar for inspired craft cocktails in a setting that feels more Lower East Side Manhattan than Southwest Virginia.