Vietnamese Eden in Suburban Washington

Shopping center has become a focal point for Vietnamese culture and food

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The 2010 Census confirms it: The District of Columbia metro area is home to more Vietnamese-Americans that any other metropolitan area on the East Coast.

After Saigon fell in 1975, thousands of Vietnamese immigrants flocked to Northern Virginia to start a new life outside of Communist rule. Some came to Falls Church in the 1980s and opened 120 shops, cafes, salons and bars in a shopping center now known as Eden Center (6751 Wilson Blvd., edencenter.com).

As a nod to its community roots, a replica of the downtown Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) clock tower watches over the shopping center, and a large Asian-style gate welcomes visitors at a parking lot entrance.

With hungry stomachs and appetites for adventure, my brother and I drove through that vehicular nightmare known as Seven Corners in search of gustatory pleasures. Entering the Eden parking lot, we were greeted with the smell of grilled meat, always a promising sign. Bring your appetite, but also bring cash. Though some shops and eateries accept credit cards, many don’t.

After pigging out over a couple of days, here are our suggestions for maximizing a visit. 

Bánh mì 

As an entry point into Vietnamese cuisine, it’s hard to go wrong with bánh mì. While “bánh mì” means bread, the term has become synonymous with a sandwich made with airy, flaky bread (the Vietnamese version of baguette, introduced by the French during the country’s colonial period), grilled pork (or some other grilled meat), Vietnamese sausage or pâté and garnished with cucumber, jalapeno, daikon radish, pickled carrots and cilantro. Eden Center has a number of bakery/delis that offer bánh mì, usually for $3 or $4 each.

Good Fortune Supermarket

Eden Center is anchored by Good Fortune, a massive supermarket filled with items guaranteed to intrigue. Exotic fruits and vegetables including durian, taro, ratalu and yams the size of baseball bats occupy the produce section, and after visiting the seafood counter you can finally make that cuttlefish recipe you’ve always wanted to try ($3.99 per pound). 

The frozen-food section includes an area where you can mix and match balls of meat for a home-cooked hot pot. Sandwiched between the rabbit and pigeon is a bin full of cow penises. The market also sells sake, candy and Asian-style crockery. 

Drinks

Hit any restaurant or café here and you’re bound to find a slew of unique beverages. There are fruit and coconut sodas, bubble teas with milk and chewy fruit jelly balls, smoothies and coffee. Standard black Vietnamese coffee is the strongest stuff you’ll ever sip. We were warned repeatedly at Bambū Desserts and Drinks that we may not like it and they don’t offer refunds. We suggest ordering it with condensed milk.

Phu Quy Deli Delight

If you’re in search of a place to stop and cool your heels, Phu Quy Deli Delight is the place to go. In addition to tea and coffee, this café has a treasure trove of snacks. There’s dried fish, fruit candies and other treats, but my vote is for the 21 bins of beef jerky in the corner. Chili flakes, barbeque, curry powder and lemongrass are just a few of the seasonings that go into these meat masterpieces, alternately sliced into strips, cubed or shredded. My brother says their macarons are the best he’s had since he lived in Paris. Phu Quy also has a covered patio, occupied each time we pass by old men drinking iced teas and watching soccer games.

Huong Viet Restaurant

At 2 p.m. on a Saturday the red interior of Huong Viet Restaurant is packed with diners. A long, far wall is covered with articles from The Washington Post, Washingtonian magazine and other publications recommending this eatery, and we aren’t disappointed. My brother’s pho (a popular noodle dish) has a rich broth and is filled with tender beef round, flank and tendon. I’m feeling adventurous and order a five-spice beef soup with pork feet. The dish is expertly spiced with just enough heat to give it an edge