Photo by Andre Daugherty courtesy Visit North Carolina
Mountain towns in the United States have attracted attention and new residents in recent years — as remote work proliferated and careers changed in 2020 and beyond, forested retreats became hot destinations for young professionals and retirees alike. Asheville, a small city in the foothills of western North Carolina just over five hours from Richmond by car, is delivering on the promises of those hybrid work-play hubs amid growth and change that aim to accommodate their increasing number of residents.
It only takes one visit to understand why the city is so popular. Its restaurants attract James Beard Awards and renowned chefs, the music scene produces top-selling singer-songwriters, and its position as a gateway to the Blue Ridge and Smoky mountains is as awe-inspiring as it is convenient. The community’s longstanding commitment to laid-back enjoyment embraces travelers like a bear hug.
Fly-fishing in the French Broad River (Photo by Blackhorse Studio courtesy Visit North Carolina)
Where to Stay
Asheville packs a lot in a narrow valley. Thanks to its reputation as a vacation town, finding a place to stay is no big feat. Downtown is home to industry newcomers including The Flat Iron Hotel, a 99-year-old skyscraper reimagined as a boutique hotel, which opened earlier this year. The city’s outer neighborhoods are not to be ignored; quaint bed-and-breakfasts fill West Asheville, and the Biltmore Village area is packed with hotels styled like the famous estate nearby.
More rural stays, including The Horse Shoe Farm, offer a closer look at the surrounding countryside. A collection of cottages, standalone homes and suites on a ranch bordering the Pisgah National Forest, the farm’s amenities include spa treatments in a converted stable and a restaurant whose seasonal menus focus on local produce.
North Carolina Arboretum (Photo by Jared Kay courtesy Visit North Carolina)
Going Green
The city’s reputation as an outdoors town is hard to miss; walk around the main drags and you’ll see swarms of people prepped for the nearby trailheads and vehicles hauling some combination of kayaks and mountain bikes. To get a sense of what draws so many to move here, get out of the city and into the woods.
An abundance of hiking destinations surrounds Asheville, including nearby Mount Mitchell State Park and the aforementioned Pisgah National Forest, along with the Cherokee National Forest and Great Smoky Mountains National Park a few hours away. But one of the best ways to combine outdoors time with the city is getting on the French Broad River. The river runs west of downtown and flows toward Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Guided trips for kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, tubing and fly-fishing are available from groups like French Broad Outfitters and Asheville Fly Fishing Co.
The Blue Ridge Parkway might be the best low-intensity way to climb some of the area’s many peaks while seeing incredible sights. Follow the road northwest from town for overlooks galore, where valleys stretch for miles and cascades including Glassmine Falls spill from rocky cliffs. Head south to reach the North Carolina Arboretum, complete with manicured gardens and walking and biking trails. Entry is free, but parking costs $20.
Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. (Photo by Jared Kay courtesy Visit North Carolina)
Fine Food and Best Brews
Asheville’s culinary scene is a major contributor to its national prominence, but considering the city’s relative size, many of the best spots still feel undiscovered. As in many Southern cities, breakfast begins with a biscuit; specifically, Biscuit Head, which has outposts in the Biltmore area, south of downtown and in West Asheville that serve sizeable biscuits in sandwich and platter form for breakfast and lunch.
In the walkable South Slope neighborhood, Chai Pani’s new 10,000-square-foot location allows the James Beard Award-winning Indian street food spot to better handle the long lines of hungry tourists and locals. Downtown’s Cúrate — from acclaimed chef Katie Button — brings Spanish tapas to the Appalachian Mountains in a bustling former bus depot.
Like most mountain towns, Asheville loves its beer. Unlike most mountain towns, Asheville boasts the largest operation centers on the East Coast for two of the nation’s largest craft breweries: Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. and New Belgium Brewing. Sierra Nevada is a sizeable destination for beer nerds and novices, with a lush backyard and amphitheater south of the city. New Belgium, in the industrial River Arts District, connects its production plant to a modern tasting room overlooking the French Broad River. Eschew the nationally known brews for local brands such as Wicked Weed Brewing, Burial Beer Co. and White Labs Brewing Co. (among many others) in South Slope.
