Leah Small enjoys riverfront walks with her dog, Penny.
Moving to Manchester was a practical decision for me, my husband and what our neighbor lovingly calls our “herd.” Our apartment is lofty, with metal girders and concrete floors pointing to an industrial past typical of many properties in Old Town Manchester. Most importantly, there is room for the herd, which consists of three cats and a dog.
When I’m not cuddling the quadrupeds, I’m likely taking advantage of the paddling, hiking, lounging and general frolicking offered by multiple river access points in Manchester, courtesy of the James River Park System. Here is some of what gives Dogtown its charm and individuality.
ICONIC SPOT: The Plant Zero arts complex features art studios, apartments, commercial and event space, restaurants and more. "Plant Zero" is what the former industrial owner called the building, and the name stuck.
HISTORY
Once an independent city, Manchester was annexed by Richmond in 1910. For most of the 20th century, the neighborhood’s main drag, Hull Street, boasted movie theaters, restaurants, shops, salons and even a Thalhimers. But flight to the suburbs and the 1970s expansion of public housing into the residential districts Oak Grove and Blackwell changed the neighborhood. A $27 million, 20-year federal grant awarded in 1997 to redevelop public housing units in Blackwell delivered mixed results.
The groundwork for Manchester’s current wave of development was laid when the Virginia Department of Historic Resources designated the Manchester Residential-Commercial Historic District in 2002, which allowed property owners to take advantage of state historic tax credits. A major turning point came when Fountainhead Properties opened its Plant Zero arts complex in 2004, which has helped draw significant development to the area.
A vote by the Virginia Department of Historic Resources to expand the historic district was delayed on June 14 until September, amid fears of gentrification raising real estate tax assessments, which could displace longtime residents. The expansion would allow state and historic tax credits to help fund revitalization of properties in the Swansboro and Blackwell neighborhoods.
Once home to Reynolds South Plant, City View Lofts have been transformed into expansive living spaces with skyline and river views.
LIVING
No one knows the exact origin of Manchester’s Dogtown moniker, with one theory holding that it’s a dis reaching back to revenue struggles during Manchester’s days as an independent city. Now I’m thinking it’s because owning a dog is almost a prerequisite for living there. But I guess you can say that for much of Richmond.
A major advantage of Manchester is that it’s easy to get places. Access to Interstate 95 north or south is quick and convenient, and the area is connected to either downtown or the Fan by the Mayo, 14th Street and Manchester bridges. But Manchester is also becoming a more walkable and bikeable community, with plenty of its own draws.
Part of Manchester’s appeal is a varied demographic and its mix of single-family homes and apartments. Construction is underway on a development of nearly 80 single-family townhouses and duplexes by Urban Development Associates on 2 acres between Bainbridge, Porter, 12th and 13th streets. The company has developed houses, hundreds of apartments and several offices in Manchester since 2003.
RECREATION
Fantastic river and trail access is what I love most about Manchester. Belle Isle and Brown’s Island are obvious gems reachable by multiple points in the neighborhood.
Off of Deep Water Terminal Road is Ancarrow’s Landing, which provides convenient large-boat access to the James River. It’s my go-to place to drop in my kayak. On bright spring and summer days, the park’s banks are a popular fishing spot. It’s also an access point for part of the historic Richmond Slave Trail.
The Floodwall is a fantastic place to watch the sun rise. It’s a quick walk or bike from the T. Tyler Potterfield Bridge, which I love looking at from the pedestrian walkway or bike lane on the Ninth Street Bridge in the evening. When the T. Tyler Potterfield Bridge is lit, it reminds me of a diamond necklace spanning the James.
Server Rita Murry at Croaker's Spot
DINING
Croaker’s Spot on Hull Street is a longtime mainstay, serving delicious, soulful seafood. The view from the patio of Legend Brewing Co. proves that being across the river from the heart of the city has its aesthetic advantages. I love eating the fried “Basket of Brussels” with the “Beer Mussels.” The word nerd in me also likes that my favorite order rhymes.
Next to Legend is the low-key Camden’s Dogtown Market. The shrimp, scallops and crab cakes are worthy of the menu description “Bounty of the Bottom of the Sea.” The pun-tastic dish “Hummus a Few Bars?” is another menu highlight.
Sandwiches at Brewer’s Café on Bainbridge Street, owned by former stockbroker A.J. Brewer, are spectacular. It’s often a spot for block parties on First Fridays. New to the 1200 block of Hull Street in late June is Hot Diggity Donuts. What’s not to love about a menu that features donuts and cocktails?
SHOPPING
While Hull Street is lined with many shuttered storefronts, some old and new businesses continue the corridor’s commerce tradition. The 1200 block of Hull Street, formerly the location of Rudd’s Meats and Singer in the 1950s, is now home to Bahashem Soap Co. and Island Yoga Fitness. A secondhand furniture store — Furniture at the Venus — now occupies the former Venus Theater.
Just as store fronts on Hull Street have new purposes hearkening back to their retail days, Manchester residents and developers are reshaping the area while striving for historic preservation.
