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The Blue Goat’s Smithfield Farm pig ears, topped with a fried duck egg. Adam Ewing photo
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Charles City Tavern's Bourbon-Pecan Bread Pudding. Adam Ewing photo
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James Dickinson photo
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Isaac Harrell photo
Anyone who grew up eating Southern food knows that it's about more than simple nourishment for the body — it feeds the soul. There are traditions and recipes passed from one generation to another. There's an emphasis on using ingredients that are available locally. Putting meals on the table involves family members cooking together and, once dinner is ready, gathering to enjoy the food and fellowship. In that spirit, we've pulled together a guide featuring some of the Richmond region's best Southern cuisine and chefs who draw inspiration from their own family traditions to share it with us.
Entrees
Shrimp and Grits at Lady N'awlins
There's no shortage of places with shrimp and grits on the menu in this town, but many of my favorites (I'm looking at you, Caliente) only serve the dish during the dinner hour. Which is why I was happy to discover the lunchtime version at Lady N'awlins Cajun Café, featuring abundant shrimp, creamy stone-ground grits, peppers, onions and a slightly tangy New Orleans-style barbecue sauce, plus two triangles of cornbread on the side. —CA 2329 W. Main St., 355-4746
Sidebars
Hall of Fame
of the South
Transplanted ‘Yankee' researches pimento cheese for documentary
Southern Cooking
Green Tomato and Pimento Cheese Sandwich at Parkside Café
Parkside chef and co-owner Travis Milton has the Southern food stuff down pretty well — collards, sweet-potato biscuits and meatloaf all find a place on his menu. When it came to pimento cheese, he wanted to do something different and went back to his days at Bottega Bistro, where he served a blackened green tomato with goat-cheese Napoleon. He played around with the spiciness of the tomato and the sweet tang of the pimento cheese, coming up with this creation on toasted homemade challah bread. —SJW 3514 Forest Hill Ave., 864-8888
Fried Pig Ear at The Blue Goat
With the popularity of local farms in full swing, it's only natural that the nose-to-tail concept of cooking is getting more attention. Kevin LaCivita, executive chef at The Blue Goat, has River City buzzing about his beer-batter fried pig ear recipe. At the new gastropub, Smithfield Farm pig ears are poached for hours, then cut into thin strips and beer battered with a craft brew on tap. Deep-fried like a funnel cake, the pig ears are tossed with fried Swiss chard and three kinds of pickled peppers and topped with a fried duck egg and roasted garlic aïoli. —PS 5710 Grove Ave., 288-8875
Chesapeake Amberjack at Zeus Gallery Café
For 18 years, the chalkboard menu at Zeus has boasted contemporary American cuisine and locally caught seafood. Of late, a pan-seared Chesapeake amberjack dish, the inspiration of sous chef Nicholas McNair, has garnered attention. McNair's plate includes French green lentils, heirloom tomato coulis, grilled Belgian endive and micro greens from Cabbage Hill Farm, served with rendered prosciutto chips. —PS 201 North Belmont Ave., 359-3219
Chicken and Dumplings at Perly's
For many Southerners, dropped dumplings are just plain wrong. So if you're looking for the noodle dumplings your grandmother put into her chicken and dumplings, you are in luck every Friday at Perly's. You get tender chicken, your choice of dark or white meat, tasty gravy and old-fashioned rolled dumplings, served with fantastic succotash: baby limas with crisp corn and perfect seasoning. —HL 111 E. Grace St., 649-2779
Chicken and Waffles at OMG Café
I'm not going to mess around: You have to be very hungry to order this dish. A solid Belgian waffle topped with sliced strawberries and a mound of whipped cream would be enough, but then you have four giant fried chicken wings — crisp, meaty and not at all greasy. It's totally worth the calories. For Sunday brunch, Pescados China Street (626 China St., 644-3474) offers a Caribbean twist on the soul-food classic: a sweet-potato waffle with chicken cutlets and spicy chipotle syrup. —KA 412 N. 25th St., 269-0531
Pork Chop at Lemaire
Leave it to Lemaire executive chef and Richmond native son Walter Bundy to deliver the Southern goods. His juicy, bone-in "as Southern as it gets" pork chop is just that. The not-too-sweet, not-too-heavy Coca-Cola barbecue sauce is a perfect complement. Taking matters over the top, the accompanying slow-cooked, ham-studded collards and divine mac and cheese would make any good Southerner swoon. —MG 101 W. Franklin St., 649-4629
Roast Catfish at The Roosevelt
Chef/partner Lee Gregory says this noteworthy dish reminds him of his childhood. The catfish is served with a down-home combo of Sea Island Red Peas, Anson Mills' rice middlins and green tomato chow-chow. And if it's offered, try the Cheerwine-braised pig-tail appetizer. It's crispy, sweet and tender; meaty, but not greasy, with a beautiful ruby sauce slightly reminiscent of Chinese roast pork, just much tastier. —PS and HL 623 N. 25th St., 658-1935
Rappahannock Fried Oysters at County Seat
Lightly breaded and pan-fried in a cast-iron skillet, these plump, tender oysters are encased in a hot, crispy coating that enhances their flavor without being overwhelming. They arrive fresh at the Powhatan restaurant once or twice a week. Typically a dinner entrée, they're also available as a Tuesday lunch special, paired with Smithfield ham and a just-baked roll, with a side of coleslaw. —TE 3883 Old Buckingham Road, 598-5000
Chicken-Fried Steak at Klara's Kitchun
You can't separate Southern food from family, and Klara's Kitchun, named for the late Clara Whitt, is a perfect example of that. Her son, Jeffrey Mitchell, opened the restaurant 28 years ago, joking that he'd used a different spelling of his mother's name to avoid having to pay her royalties. Today it's owned by Whitt's daughter Joan Mitchell, whose sisters, Velma Hayes and Wanda Robertson, also work at the Chester eatery. As for the chicken-fried steak, just $9 gets you a cut of Angus beef coated in a crisp breading and topped with a thick, flavorful country gravy, plus your choice of two sides. (I'd recommend ordering the black-eyed peas.) —CA 11360 Iron Bridge Road, 796-3737
Desserts
Buttermilk Pie at Feathernesters
Made from an 1880s Southern church cookbook recipe, this sweet, custardy pie sprinkled with cinnamon has a strong following. Feathernesters co-owner Marc Goswick makes it in both the traditional style and "deluxe" with walnuts and chocolate. Another melt-in-your-mouth version can be found at County Seat in Powhatan (3883 Old Buckingham Road, 598-5000). — TE 6118 Lakeside Ave., 262-7305
Red Velvet Cupcakes at Pearl's
The moist, richly red cake balances perfectly with a light, tangy cream-cheese frosting dotted with red sugar sprinkles, earning praise from an informal (and finicky) Richmond magazine tasting committee for these beauties from Pearl's Cupcake Shoppe. Our tasters are also partial to the more chocolatey red velvet cupcakes from Michaela's Quality Bake Shop (207 W. Brookland Park Blvd., 321-0025). Topped with rich buttercream icing and cake crumbles, the cupcakes have deliciously crunchy edges. — TE 5812 Grove Ave., 285-2253
Hummingbird Cake at Garnett's Café
The origin of hummingbird cake (was it an article from a 1978 Southern Living?) is as hard to pin down as an explanation for its name (is it because hummingbirds like sweet things?). The ingredients in this Southern dessert are constant, however: a cinnamony mix of bananas, pineapple and nuts topped by gently sweetened cream-cheese frosting. Garnett's cake is rich and extra moist, and it gets better with age — if you can keep it around that long. — BF 2001 Park Ave., 367-7909
Peach Cobbler at Moore Street Café
Served warm in a bowl, with milk or a scoop of vanilla ice cream if you wish, as I did, this cobbler is put together off-site (they won't say where) and baked at the café, with fresh peaches and a soft, pielike crust. The texture and flavor of the peaches make this dessert stand out. As an alternative, Moore Street also serves a blackberry cobbler that is quite tasty. — TE 2904 W. Moore St., 359-5970
Bourbon-Pecan Bread Pudding at Charles City Tavern
Just off historic Route 5 sits an old-fashioned Southern treat worth the jaunt. Chef Michael Macknight is at it again, this time offering bourbon-pecan bread pudding. Macknight tops his thick and warmly spiced, straight-from-the-oven creation with a brown sugar-and-Jack Daniel's butter glaze, garnished with whipped cream and fresh berries. — PS 9220 John Tyler Memorial Highway, 829-5004
Sides
Macaroni and Cheese at Willie's BBQ
This mac-and-cheese ( right ), just a skip down the road in Quinton, tastes like the filled-with-love side my mama would make — if my mama weren't the type to whip me up a fresh box of Kraft. Creamy, tender, super cheesy and cooked just right, it's total comfort on a spoon, not to mention a heaping helping for just $2. —MM 2245 Pocahontas Trail, 932-9333
Beet Salad at LuLu's
With fresh ingredients plucked from the 17th Street Farmers' Market across the street, the roasted beet salad at LuLu's Restaurant has become all the rage for Richmonders in search of local eats in Shockoe Bottom. LuLu's, owned by Paul Keevil of Millie's, amps up its beet salad with tomatoes, arugula, horseradish-cream dressing and candied pecans that are lightly spiced with cayenne. —PS 21 N. 17th Street, 343-9771
Sweet Potato Casserole at Benny's BBQ
You won't need to eat dessert if you order this popular dish of fresh, buttery, mashed sweet potatoes topped with brown sugar and pecans. It's prepared as a daily special on Tuesdays, or you can look for it in the deli case to take home and warm up. In the same vein, the soft, luscious yams at Family Secrets Restaurant (5310 Chamberlayne Ave., 515-8890) are reminiscent of pumpkin pie. — TE 3044 Stony Point Road, 320-7447
Texas Caviar at Alamo BBQ
There's no better way to accompany Alamo's famous beef brisket sandwich (topped with onions and jalapeños) than with a cool side of Texas caviar. This refreshing combination of black beans, corn, pico de gallo and cilantro quells the burning on your tongue and prepares your taste buds for more. For another flavorful bean-based side, check out the hoppin' John that sometimes appears on the menu at Comfort (200 W. Broad St., 780-0004). —MM 2202 Jefferson Ave., 592-3138
Collards at Ettamae's Café
There are two types of collards. There are "collards," which taste vaguely of stew and are a nice respite from the main attraction of your plate. Then there are — inhale, now sigh deeply — collards. These you'll find at Ettamae's Café. Smoky, fragrant and toothsome (and vegetarian), they are the soul of comfort. I could have made a blanket of them and wrapped myself up in it, they were so good. You have to go eat them. You must. —NL 522 N. Second St., 888-8058
Buttered Brussels Sprouts at Avalon
Deeply golden and crispy, buttered Brussels sprouts hold rock-star status at Avalon Restaurant and Bar, making them among the few dishes to remain firmly in place on a constantly rotating menu. Chef Clint Jones finds the perfect consistency: The sprouts are flash-fried with a hint of browning and tossed with butter, Mediterranean sea salt and pine nuts. The late-night bar crowd has been known to line up to request this favorite. —PS 2619 W. Main St., 353-9709
Green Beans at Comfort
This isn't your grandma's mushy, greenish-brown side dish. Instead, Comfort's culinary crew blanches green beans just long enough to cook them, but not long enough for them to lose their snap. They stay bright green, and with a generous shake of salt and black pepper, this stalwart veggie is updated for the 21st-century South. —BF 200 W. Broad St., 780-0004
Corn Pudding at The Black Sheep
With its Southern-influenced menu, The Black Sheep always has a host of mouthwatering side dishes to choose from, and one of the best recurring items is corn pudding. It's sweet and packed with flavor, including lots of vanilla and nutmeg. Just try not to finish the entire ramekin. —MM 901 W. Marshall St., 648-1300
Soups & Breads
Brunswick Stew at Erin's Village Eatery
Many local restaurants have Brunswick stew on the menu, and there are hotly fought contests and strong opinions. I love this dish when the flavors meld, but the texture of each ingredient stands up. Erin's Village Eatery makes some of the best around. Dark-meat chicken that adds depth, butter beans that never saw a can, rounded stock and a thick, fulfilling texture make this cup worth the easy drive to Powhatan. —HL 3844 Old Buckingham Road, 598-5999
Snapper Soup at the Old Original Bookbinder's
While hailing from Philadelphia, Old Original Bookbinder's pays homage to the South with its classic snapper soup. The snapper turtles are roasted in-house, then slow-braised in beef stock and veal knuckles until the soup is rich and hearty. Finished at the table with a little sherry, the snapper soup perfectly captures the Southern feeling of homey contentedness that a good soup should impart. —PEJ 2306 E. Cary St., 643-6900
Blue Crab Bisque at The Berkeley Hotel
Sometimes the simplest dish can be the most elegant. The blue crab bisque from The Dining Room at The Berkeley is a prime example. The bowl is presented empty, except for a large mound of sweet Chesapeake Bay crabmeat, then filled before your eyes with a piping- hot mixture of crab stock infused with cream, sherry and finely chopped chives. The combination is silky smooth, the perfect vehicle to enjoy Virginia's star crustacean. —PEJ 1200 E. Cary St., 225-5105
Peanut Soup at TJ's
Non-Southerners might approach a peanut soup with a bit of trepidation. TJ's, at The Jefferson Hotel, makes a Virginia Peanut Soup that is as accessible as it is tasty. Smooth and creamy, then finished with roasted Hubs pieces, crispy bacon and finely chopped chives, it makes you wonder why peanut soup this good is found only in the South. —PEJ 101 W. Franklin St., 788-8000
Squash Bisque at Amuse
Butternut-squash soup is a fairly common Southern staple. Amuse, upstairs at the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts, takes this simple soup up a notch and creates a frothy dish that is light and airy. Elegantly topped with a dollop of carrot purée for a sharp contrast, plus a sprig of fresh tarragon, this is the fall soup you wish your grandmother made. —PEJ 200 N. Boulevard, 340-1580
Chili Cheese Cornbread at Buz and Ned's
When you see chili cheese cornbread on the specials menu at Buz and Ned's Real Barbecue, don't think twice — just place your order. Also available on the catering menu, this super-soft take on the staple is packed with whole-corn kernels, chili, jalapeños and cheddar cheese, making for a satisfying side dish and starch rolled into one. If sweet cornbread is more your scene, head to Croaker's Spot (1020 Hull Street Road, 269-0464) for a stellar example. —MM 1119 N. Boulevard, 355-6055
Spoon Bread at Stuart's Fresh Catch
Spoon bread could be described as the love child of cornbread and egg custard. It's made from scratch daily at Stuart's, where owner Wayne Moe says the milk, water and butter should be boiling when added to the self-rising cornmeal, eggs and sugar: "You get a nice rise on it." Stuart's is a little sweeter and grainier than the creamy Ukrop's version, which the Richmond area Martin's stores continue to carry. —TE 2400 Mechanicsville Turnpike, 643-3474.
Hush Puppies at Q Barbeque
You've probably heard the apocryphal tale about the origin of hush puppies, with Confederate soldiers using the fried morsels of corn meal to quiet their dogs. If their hush puppies were anything like those served at Q Barbeque in Midlothian, we're sure that's a tall tale, because no one would waste these crisp, densely textured delights on dogs. (No offense, Fido.) They're delicious on their own (maybe it's the hint of minced onion?), with a little butter or, what the heck, dipped in some barbecue sauce. —CA 2077 Walmart Way, 897-9007
Cheese Straws from 3 Sisters
Peggy Spilman Crowley, Isabel Spilman Bates and Alice Spilman Frankovitch have been making their light, spicy cheddar cheese straws for decades, using a recipe from their grandmother Louise Spilman, who lived in the Fan. The sisters went into business in 2010, selling at wine festivals, Virginia's Finest events and J. Emerson on Grove Avenue. Crowley says they've recently added a jalapeño flavor, and they plan to move from hand pressing to electronic production, making these savory treats more widely available. —TE threesisters3.com
Biscuits at The Empress
I've written about biscuits before (take a moment and head over to richmondmagazine.com/favebiscuits ), but after I finished that article, I discovered another worthy contender a couple doors down from our office, at The Empress. They're included with the eatery's eggs Benedict, but these biscuits are so classic, so crumbly, so obviously made with care, that they're totally worth ordering on their own. —CA 2043 W. Broad St., 592-4000
