1 of 5
Pastrami spiced duck
2 of 5
Bloody Mary
3 of 5
Brown butter-basted scallops
4 of 5
Shagbark interior
5 of 5
Brioche sticky bun
American journalist Horace Greeley, the man often credited with the phrase “Go West, young man, and grow up with the country,” probably was not the reason Walter Bundy decided to trade his famous address at the Jefferson Hotel’s Lemaire and grow new roots in Libbie Mill-Midtown. That said, if a restaurant has the makings to anchor a new development, Shagbark has fast become that keystone.
The design is a nod to “modern cabin” with an East-meets-West vibe for the suburban Short Pump crowd who haven’t quite made it into the city, and the urban crowd who haven't quite made it out to the Far West End.
With reservations late on a weeknight, you’ll be greeted by a comfortable bar area, which appears to have room for last-minute walk-ins if the three dining areas are booked. Once seated, you’ll quickly settle into an expansive wine, beer and cocktail list, bringing a notable representation of Virginia through any varietal.
The Nutty Professor, made with local Copper Fox Rye, is a good option to help digest a menu that, as of my visits, still has the comforts of winter as well as the eminence of spring. It’s filled with recognizable Virginia purveyors, and it doesn’t take long to understand the phrase at the foot of the dinner menu, “Stay rooted but branch out.”
Wading into the sea, both the Chesapeake Rarebit and Brown Butter Basted Scallops are solid choices. The rarebit is the adult version of cheese toast, with perfectly melted cheese over thick, soft bread with a delicate crust and copious amounts of jumbo lump crab, applewood bacon and roasted red peppers — ample for sharing. The half-dollar-sized scallops lying atop a bed of parsnip mousse like your favorite pillows on your most comfortable mattress come perfectly crusted, cooked to perfection; each bite mixed with citrus butter brings a bright, tingly sensation to the palate.
Back on land, the roasted sunchoke bisque is an easy standout. Into a bowl dotted with raisins, sunflower seeds and goat cheese, the server swiftly and elegantly pours the warm bisque from a cup in an upward, one-motion swing. You’re left with wisps of aromatic steam and a savory and perfectly creamy sunchoke taste.
Bundy’s mains continue to impress, including the chicken and dumplings — a whole crisp leg served over “Up-South” collards, andouille sausage and oversized gnocchi cleverly disguised as dumplings. The red-wine-braised short rib is equally impressive, perfectly crusted, moist and melt-in-your-mouth tender. The Haas’ mushroom jus adds a grounded earthiness.
Shagbark’s healthy portions will leave little room; however, dessert will prove tough to pass up, especially with the likes of peanut butter pie powerful enough to bring you straight back to childhood. Reginald’s Homemade peanut butter and Hubs peanuts keep it local, yet the round shape beautifully dolloped with marshmallow fluff elevates this Southern favorite to a whole new level. Mom, can I have seconds?
Sunday brunch, as it should, offers a casual quality. Head straight for the bloody mary, which is made from a perfectly spiced house mix and “Up-South” victuals on a stick that anywhere else might be considered an appetizer of charcuterie and cheese.
Turning to the menu, let’s just trust the house specialties — if you order something highlighted in a box, you’re in for an experience. On this visit, it was the brown butter brioche sticky bun, an unrivaled combination of salty and sweet that comes drizzled with an almost endless amount of buttermilk cream cheese and dusted with a hazelnut crunch that will put a song in your heart.
The pastrami-spiced duck confit hash is plentiful and tender, and you’ll find it hard to resist seeking out every last buttered almond in the dish, though the spice is best suited for those who live for aromatic flavor (think coriander) and the soft egg was just short of hard.
The Winner-Winner Chicken Dinner at brunch was exactly that: two plump boneless thighs fried in a batter with house-made pickle brine and served over perfectly crusted and light waffles. Paired with a bourbon butter to drizzle on top, the chicken and waffles special will rival any you’ve tried.
3 1/2 out of 4 forks
4901 Libbie Mill Blvd.
804-358-7424
Hours (updated November 2017): Monday to Thursday: 4 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday: 4 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday: 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday: 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.
Prices: $16 to $29
Handicapped-accessible
