Illustration by Katie McBride
After shedding their outer shells, blue crabs are known as soft-shells or peelers, with only a paper-thin encasement. Their brief season, from May to August, makes soft-shells especially coveted, while easy access to the flesh — compared to the tedious task of beating hard-shell crabs with mallets — makes them a crab-lover’s dream.
HISTORY
Mention crops up as early as 1615, when Virginia colonist Ralph Hamor described how the Native American Chief Powhatan served a breakfast of crab to European visitors. In 1885, a South Carolinian named Charles Leslie cultivated the first soft-shell crab nursery, establishing the now common practice of holding crabs in tanks until molting. Crabbing became a pillar industry along the Chesapeake Bay, resulting in generations of crabbers ever since.
WHAT TO BUY
Purchase crabs live whenever possible, and store them in the refrigerator, packed in damp straw over ice, up to several days. Once crabs have been cleaned, they should be enjoyed within the day. Live crabs will be somewhat active, though not so tough without their hard shells. They should smell faintly of the waters whence they came, never fishy.
HOW TO PREPARE
Just when you start to feel a tinge of connection to the vainly spitting, flailing creature, it’s time to cut its face off, just between the eyes. Next, locate and remove the gills and, finally, flip the crab over and remove the apron, a shield attached to the bottom portion of the shell. You can have your seafood monger do the work for you, in which case your greatest task will be deciding how to cook your prize. A simple preparation, such as dusting with flour or cornmeal and pan-frying, will amplify the natural sweetness of the crab. More elaborate preparations, such as tempura-frying or cooking over coals, will add another dimension of flavor. Grilled softies make a simple but impressive summer supper, drizzled with a bit of lemon or dipped in aioli.
Pan-Fried Soft-Shell Crab With Salad
Serves 2
By Mya Anitai of Dinamo
2 soft-shell crabs
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons clarified butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large clove garlic, halved lengthwise
1 tablespoon basil, sliced into a chiffonade
1 tablespoon garlic, minced
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
¼ cup olive oil
2 cups mixed greens
1 carrot, chopped
1 cucumber, chopped
¼ cup Kalamata olives, pitted
½ red onion, thinly sliced
Sea salt, black pepper, oregano and crushed red pepper, to taste
Heat the olive oil and clarified butter in a sauté pan over medium heat, then lightly dredge the soft-shells in flour, and pan-fry for 3 to 4 minutes on either side. Allow crabs to rest for 1 minute, and then rub them with garlic and finish with a sprinkle of basil.
For the salad, combine the garlic and vinegar in a bowl. Slowly incorporate the olive oil while whisking, until the vinaigrette has thickened. Season with a pinch of sea salt, black pepper, a smaller pinch of crushed red pepper, and oregano. Combine the remaining salad ingredients and toss with the vinaigrette. Serve alongside the soft-shells and enjoy.
