Illustration by Katie McBride
HISTORY
Radicchio is a storied green — though in appearance it is not green at all, but rather a distinctive burgundy. A member of the chicory family, it was revered in antiquity for its reputed ability to purify the blood and cure insomnia. Farmers cultivated the annual crop in the Veneto region of Italy in the 16th century. Back then, radicchio was green. Three hundred years later, a Belgian agronomist engineered the plant to exhibit the characteristic pigment we identify it by today. In Italy, radicchio is more than just a vegetable; it is a treasure preserved, with several varieties accorded “protected geographical indication,” or IGP status.
WHAT TO BUY
Whether you choose the oblong and bitter Treviso, the round Chioggia, or the milder, speckled Castelfranco, look for bright leaves free of blemishes. Radicchio keeps well in the refrigerator, but it’s best eaten soon after purchase. Bitterness is unavoidable — and, in truth, you don’t want to avoid it; that’s part of the pleasure of eating it — but if the taste is too bitter for you, soak the leaves in ice water or shred them before dressing.
HOW TO PREPARE
Halved and slicked with oil, radicchio can be grilled, which will bring out a faint nutty sweetness (a high-quality balsamic vinegar will only accentuate this characteristic). Because of its assertive flavor and sturdy leaves, radicchio can’t be overpowered by strong vinaigrettes, and it isn’t going to wilt if you dress it in advance — making it a smart choice for a salad to bring along to a potluck, not to mention a great foil for the heavy roasted meats and carb-laden sides of so many winter meals. Fennel, orange and hazelnuts make good partners, or, for something more complex, try the recipe below.
Warm Chicory Salad
Serves 4
By Julie Heins, chef at Secco Wine Bar
1/2 pound mixed chicories, including radicchio Castelfranco, Treviso, escarole and endive
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 strips crispy bacon, crumbled
4 eggs, poached
Roasted Shallot Vinaigrette
2 roasted shallots; chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
4 teaspoons fresh thyme, finely chopped
4 teaspoons parsley, finely chopped
4 teaspoons rosemary, finely chopped
1/2 cup champagne vinegar
1 cup olive oil
sugar, to taste
lemon juice, to taste
salt, to taste
To roast shallots: Trim the root end and peel 1 pound of shallots. Toss with a glug of olive oil, and roast on a parchment-lined sheet tray in a 400-degree oven for 30 minutes. Turn the pan and flip the shallots before roasting for another 20 minutes. Allow to cool, and then chop them up and add to vinaigrettes, potatoes, broccoli or eggs. Keep tightly sealed and refrigerated for up to two weeks.
For the vinaigrette: Combine chopped shallots and garlic with herbs and vinegar in a bowl. Then whisk in olive oil and season with the sugar, lemon juice and salt.
For the salad: Heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Quickly saute greens just to give them a little heat, not to cook through, and dress them with the shallot vinaigrette to taste. Top each serving with a poached egg and bacon crumbles.
