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Photo by Angie Mosier-Steen
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Serves 6 Pork belly is a magical thing when handled the right way. Because of the fat content and resulting forgivingness, almost anyone can look like a seasoned pro bringing slabs of belly to the table. To make it a little more palatable to the general public (some people, like my wife, immediately condemn it to the too fatty, unhealthy category), we trim a significant amount of the surface fat away, leaving more pure protein in the finished product. The Steen's Syrup Mill in Vermilion Parish, in south Louisiana, has been producing an outstanding, subtle, and smooth cane syrup for just over 100 years. To my mind, it is one of the most seminal artisanal food products from the state. It is simple, honest, and delicious. It works perfectly with pork because it is flavorful but not cloyingly sweet. It brings an earthiness to this dish that is truly unique. A good-quality, unsulfured molasses or fresh honey will do the trick as well, but if you can get your hands on Steen's, buy several cans. 3 tablespoons salt 3 tablespoons dark brown sugar 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoons red pepper flakes 1 (5-pound) slab pork belly 3 tablespoons pure olive oil 1. cups thinly sliced yellow onions 2 tablespoons minced garlic 1 cup peeled, small-dice carrots 1 cup small-dice celery 2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves 10 cups Ham Stock (page 33) 2 cups Steen's cane syrup The night before you want to serve this dish, combine the salt, sugar, black pepper, and red pepper flakes in a small bowl. Trim the pork belly into a tidy rectangle and remove any surface fat that is obviously gratuitous. Rub the spice blend evenly into the pork belly. Cover with plastic wrap, place on a large baking sheet, and refrigerate overnight. When ready to cook, prepare a hot charcoal fire. Unwrap the pork belly, pat it dry, and rub off any excess spice mix. Place the pork belly on the hot grill and cook briefly, just until both sides are well marked. If you do not want to grill the meat, you can still make this dish: Alternatively, coat the pork belly all over with a little olive oil and place it in a large braising pan over high heat. Sear the meat quickly, just until brown on both sides, and remove from the heat. Preheat the oven to 325°F. In a large braising pan over medium heat, heat the olive oil until it shimmers. Sauté the onions and garlic until they begin to wilt. Stir in the carrots and celery and sauté again until they begin to soften. Blend in the thyme and heat through. Push the vegetables to one side and lay the pork belly in the pan with the vegetables. Add the stock and Steen's, cover with aluminum foil, and braise in the oven for 3 hours, or until very tender. Remove the pan from the oven and let cool briefly. Carefully remove the belly from the pan and let rest at room temperature while you finish the sauce. Strain the braising liquid into a medium saucepan, discard the vegetable solids, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and skim off any fat that floats to the top. Once most of the fat has been removed, turn the heat back up, and reduce the sauce until it thickens. Season to taste with a touch more Steen's, or salt and pepper. Cut the belly into equal portions and arrange on serving plates. Pour the thickened sauce over the top of each piece and serve. From Pickles, Pigs & Whiskey: Recipes from My Three Favorite Food Groups and Then Some by John Currence/Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC
