Fried, baked, poached or scrambled, eggs are a kitchen staple. As we meander through the dairy aisle or visit a local farmers market, we are bombarded by so many classifications — cage-free, free-range, pasture-raised, organic — how does a simple egg enthusiast navigate the hype? With grocery store prices dipping down to 99 cents a dozen and farmers markets starting at around $5 per dozen, shoppers have a multitude of choices about where they spend their money.
Courtney Blair lives with her family and 38 backyard chickens delivering eggs to the heart of Richmond to customers who email her at courtneyblair618@gmail.com. They keep a large variety of hens in their wooded backyard, and the diversity of breeds means eggs of all colors, causing their cartons to look like the perfect Easter basket. Rhode Island Reds are Blair’s favorite, thanks to what she calls “their calm and sweet nature.” For Blair, raising chickens and selling eggs is truly a lifestyle. “The chickens have just become a part of our every day. They eat well and live well because they are part of the family.”
As consumers aim to get closer to that ideal of humane treatment for the hens producing our eggs, the bad news is that most of the identifications on egg cartons boil down to simple marketing. The good news is that we’re about to tell you what they mean, and an informed decision is always a better decision, so here’s some information to guide you.
Cage-Free
Hens are not kept in cages. Pretty straightforward. However, although this is an improvement over the unregulated and cramped battery cages of the past, this does not necessarily mean a healthy hen. The classification provides no guarantee that hens are antibiotic-free, well-fed or well-treated. Unfortunately, this could mean that they are crowded into a giant warehouse (free of cages) with no access to the outdoors.
Antibiotic-Free
The hens are not given antibiotics. This is really the only qualification that could affect the egg on your plate, since antibiotic residues could appear in an egg produced by a hen treated with antibiotics. (The other classifications are much more about the life of the hen or a particular farm’s sustainability practices and environmental awareness.) However, practically speaking, antibiotics are not often used with laying hens in the U.S., and the USDA requires withdrawal periods for hens who do receive antibiotics to ensure that residues don’t appear in their eggs. (Administering hormones to poultry is banned in the U.S., so seeing “no hormones added” on a label is irrelevant.)
Free-Range
The hens are without cages, and they have access to the outside. Before your mind wanders to rolling hills, this access is not regulated and could be a single door leading to a concrete slab or small patch of dirt.
As with the “cage-free” classification, “free-range” does not necessarily mean a healthier hen or a better egg.
Vegetarian-Fed/Grain-Fed
Hens are given a grain-based feed for their diet, which cannot contain animal by-products. This in and of itself is a good thing, since grain is healthy for hens. However, hens are carnivores, and insects are a big part of their natural diet. It can be difficult for a farm to fulfill that dietary need without the hens having access to places where bugs naturally live. The diet proclamation on the egg carton offers no indication about the hen’s quality of life.
Organic
To be Certified USDA Organic, a farm must undergo rigorous testing and certification from a third party. Hens must be given 100 percent organic feed, free of all pesticides, from the second day of life. Egg-washing stations are restricted to five chemicals, and any oils used must be 100 percent organic. Logs and records must be kept for all practices. Meredith Kramer of the Organic Valley co-op describes organic as “the highest quality and gold standard for ingredients that we put in our bodies.” Organic farms have to apply not only with the United States Department of Agriculture but also with the state government. The Virginia Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services has an extensive application process. Organic certification is good, but it is not the whole picture, and deals much more with farming practices. A hen can be cramped, with no access to the outside, while eating all-organic feed on an organic farm.
Pasture-Raised/Pastured
These hens have been raised with consistent access to the outdoors, grass, bugs and sunshine. Pastured hens should be living as closely to their natural state as a domesticated production animal can be. As of right now, though, this term does not have any certification standards behind it, so it is mainly used by smaller, local farms to indicate their commitment to sustainable farming practices for their hens. Because there is no USDA regulation, no one is checking up to see that the hens really are in an actual pasture, so it’s a good idea to get to know your egg producer.
A walk around your local farmers market will provide you with the opportunity to meet several egg vendors, most of whom are committed to a better way to raise chickens. You can usually find eggs from pastured hens here. (Ellwood Thompson’s, Good Foods Grocery and Whole Foods also sell pasture-raised eggs.) Don’t shy away if a farm is not organic. Organic certification is very expensive and can be difficult for small farms to take on, so you might want to pick a farm that is raising their hens well, as opposed to just organically.
But is pasture raising feasible on a large scale? Daniel Salatin of Polyface Farms, which is located just outside Staunton and delivers to Richmond and Midlothian once a month, offers an emphatic yes. The egg production on his farm is a side effect of keeping chickens on their cattle pastures. The hens eat parasites and larvae while fertilizing the soil, leading to better grazing land. The hens’ digestive systems kill harmful pathogens the cattle leave behind, leading to healthier cattle. Flocks sleep in “eggmobiles” that can be moved from pasture to pasture daily. “Every animal has a set of values that make it distinct and gives it a purpose in the bigger picture,” Salatin says.
Animal Welfare Approved and Certified Humane
Two groups that make the public aware of livestock living standards are Certified Humane (certifiedhumane.org) and Animal Welfare Approved (animalwelfareapproved.us). Both groups have strict standards for farms and their laying hens, but there are a few differences. CH does not require pasturing hens, though they have outlined standards for pasture practices. CH standards include clear goals for overall living conditions including food, water, living space and shelter. They are not a free service, requiring farms to pay for the certification. You can find Certified Humane eggs at Kroger, Whole Foods and Publix with brands like Vital Farms and Pete and Gerry’s. AWA, on the other hand, requires pasturing, with strict rules for the pasture duration and rotation of hens. They issue free certifications, designed for smaller family-owned farms. AWA outlines humane practices that include slaughtering.
Delicious by the Dozen
Obviously farmers markets are a great place to find eggs beyond the shelves of your local grocery store. (Our list of local farmers markets can be found at richmondmag.com/markets.) Here are a few more options for buying directly from farmers.
The Center for Rural Culture’s Fall Line Farms and Local Roots
This online store gives you access to eggs (and a lot more) from a wide variety of farms, including pastured eggs from purveyors such as Authenticity Farms in Amelia and Forrest Green Farm in Louisa. flflr.luluslocalfood.com
Salt and Pepper Farm
This Montpelier farm sells Animal Welfare Approved eggs through its website for local delivery at Gayton Road Christian Church (12050 Ridgefield Parkway) on Thursdays from 5 to 5:30 p.m. saltandpepperfarm.com
Waverly Farms
The Animal Welfare Approved eggs produced at Waverly Farms in Burkeville get delivered to drop-off spots in downtown Richmond and Brandermill on Thursdays for customers with CSA shares. Waverly also sells online through Fall Line Farms and Local Roots. waverlyfarmsvirginia.com
