I Love Petersburg

History, housing bargains, and eclectic shopping and dining belie this city’s troubled image

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When I tell people that my wife and I bought a home in Petersburg, their eyes widen in a double-take of aghast-ness. They perceive Petersburg as if it were the Norma Desmond of municipalities, reveling in its past and ignoring the decay all around.  Ask them why, and they evoke images of a city that’s crime-plagued, misgoverned, misbegotten and dangerous. They haven’t actually been to Petersburg recently; it’s just what they’ve seen or read. And that’s unfortunate, because they’re missing out on a city we’ve grown to love, one with a downtown that’s attaining a critical mass of food, fun, art and shopping; an abundance of historic attractions; and an array of large, lovely homes that span the centuries and styles.

HISTORY

Petersburg has its origins in Fort Henry, constructed in the 1600s by the English settlers on the Appomattox River, and a trading post there that became known as the Peter Jones Trading Station (you’ll find a mural and some historic markers at Grove Street at the river). Plans for the town were crafted in 1738, according to preservationpetersburg.org. The town was occupied by the British during the Revolutionary War, and in the Civil War was subjected to a 9 1/2-month siege before falling to Union troops. The city has a rich African-American heritage, and was home to one of the largest communities of freemen prior to the Civil War (you can learn more from Richard Stewart, curator of The Pocahontas Island Black History Museum on Witten Street).

RECREATION

The 300-acre Lee Memorial Park is an underused gem offering hiking, history, hoops, tennis, botanical diversity and a ballfield. The 18-acre Willcox Lake here is popular with anglers, and is open for canoeing and kayaking, though there is no formal landing. There are numerous access points to the Appomattox River for kayaking, fishing, hiking or enjoying the rapids near the Campbell Bridge across from Virginia State University in Ettrick.

LIVING

My wife, Donna, and I have a circa 1950 Cape Cod in Walnut Hill, which encompasses a mish-mash of residential styles ranging from brick Colonials from the 1910s and ’20s to smaller cottages from later eras. It’s a diverse community with a mix of rentals and owner-occupied homes. About 22 percent of the city’s housing stock are vacant properties, the most in the state, according to the Progress-Index. You’ll find bargain prices here, but be aware that values are rising slowly or are in decline even as most of the Metro Richmond market is rising. Downtown, a number of historic structures have been converted into residential developments that are proving popular.

DINING

There are excellent dining destinations downtown. The nicely restored 19th-century structure that’s home to DJ’s Rajun Cajun and Steakhouse has funky accents to give it a comfortable but quirky New Orleans ambiance. Try the jambalaya for some smoky heat, and save room for the bread pudding. Just down the street, Tramonto Ristorante has a cozy courtyard for some al fresco pizza and pasta. Get your morning going with some of Richmond’s Lamplighter coffee at Demolition Coffee. Crater Road is home to The Mad Italian, which has been serving up Mediterranean favorites since the 1970s.

SHOPPING

Old Towne is home to several top-notch antique galleries, including The Oak Antique Mall and vintage clothing at Second Hand Rose. When you see the goats along West Wythe Street at Guarantee Street, you know Petersburg Pickers is open for business. These pickers have discerning tastes and an ever-evolving selection of items.