Troy Hancock (Photo by Marcus Ingram)
A self-proclaimed “wine traditionalist,” Troy Hancock has a serious soft spot for cabernet sauvignon. The classic, robust red made such an impression on him that The Roosevelt wine director saved his first bottle as a treasured souvenir. At the restaurant, Hancock chooses wines that showcase both time-honored vintages and modern small producers. We caught up with the New York native to talk selection process, his cab-sav loyalty and industry shifts.
Richmond magazine: Where did you grow up and how did you land in Richmond?
Troy Hancock: I grew up in New York City, in Queens. When I was 13, we moved to Raleigh [North Carolina]. My first job was [as] a food runner. I went to school for agriculture at NC State. After college, I was working landscape design; I love plants and worked at a nursery for four years. I eventually started getting into restaurants more. I like the fast-paced energy of it and the interaction. Even though I’m kind of a loner person, I like being around people. I got that from being in restaurants. I moved out of Raleigh to Richmond in 2018. I wanted to be somewhere where there were a lot more restaurants. I started working at Perly’s for a little bit and then found The Roosevelt.
RM: What was your “aha!” wine moment?
Hancock: I got introduced to wine at a French bistro in Raleigh. We would have contests at work to see who sold the most bottles that night. I was like, “All right, let’s go,” and sold the most and got to take home a bottle. It was a 2012 Chateau Laplagnotte-Bellevue Saint-Émilion Bordeaux. I opened it and was like, “I’ve never drank wine like this before.” It blew me away. I got hooked. I was 24 at that time and was like, “I have to keep learning about this.”
RM: What’s a wine on The Roosevelt’s list that excites you?
Hancock: Foppiano [Vineyards] sauvignon blanc; we’ve had it for a few years, and it’s not on any list I’ve seen. Another favorite of mine is Red Mountain Syrah from Hedges [Family Estate]. Also Heitz Cellar, one of my favorite all-time wineries: I love that they never changed how they made wine. They’re true to traditional stuff, and the co-owner now is African American, and he’s one of the few Black CEOs in Napa Valley that owns a legacy of a cellar like that; it’s legendary.
RM: Reflecting on your time in the industry, what’s a takeaway?
Hancock: A lot of younger people have interest in drinking wine and having it with dinner and not just bringing it to a party; people are learning more about it and trying to drink certain styles of wine. It was always the older dudes, and older white dudes, getting into wine, and now ... the young community getting into wine has really elevated it.
RM: What wine style are you most drawn to, and what is in your collection at home?
Hancock: Cabernet sauvignon. [Laughs] It’s so funny, because everyone is like, “You’re so basic,” and I get that, but it literally is a wine that has so much power. You can grow it pretty easily, but you can really taste the difference between a lot of cabernets, and you tell the craft. It is the best wine to drink aged because it shows a lot of complexities. What I usually have in the mix is probably Bordeaux, Napa cabernet, riesling and white Burgundy. I’m very drawn to the classic stuff, I’ve been trained with a classic palate, so that’s what I know best. I admire it, and I love the history of it and the traditionalism of it.
RM: What is the thought process when choosing wines for a restaurant menu?
Hancock: You have to look at the business aspect of it — crowd-pleasers — and then you can get into the stuff you like on the side. Also, [you] always have to be thinking about what can elevate the beverage program or [bring] in something exciting. Usually, I’m begging and annoying my reps like, “Can you find this? What’s new? What’s around here?” I’ll look up a wine they brought in and look at wineries around that area. They’ll get motivated, and they’re like, “I found this small producer, and they only make 2,000 cases” — that’s how I find some of the best stuff I’ve tasted, begging them to find me new small producers, and they’ll bring it in and do the research.
