That’s Amore

This article has been edited since it first appeared in print.

Pizza is iconic. It conjures memories of childhood and Friday nights with friends and family. From cheese-crusted Detroit-style squares and meaty Chicago deep dishes to rustic wood-fired Neapolitan pies and veggie slices with plant-based cheese, pizza is a portal to people, places and time. 

“We get very tribal and emotional about pizza,” says Peter Regas, author of a forthcoming book about American pizza history. “There’s only a few dishes in America that people will get actually mad — passionately mad — about. Pizza is one of them. ... [It is] deeply embedded in American culture.”

The Richmond pizza scene is brimming with unforgettable international and regional styles, so it’s almost surprising to realize pizzerias weren’t always here. Regas recently published info on a slew of American pizzerias that predate the iconic Lombardi’s, founded in New York in 1905 and once thought to be the country’s first pizzeria, by over a decade. “There were over 400 pizzerias just in New York City by 1940,” he says.

The first wave of the pizza craze in the Northeast expanded beyond the area and inspired pizzerias to pop up everywhere. However, the South’s smaller Italian immigrant communities meant the region was late to the pizza party. Richmond saw its first official pizzeria in the ’50s. Like most other restaurants of the time, the city’s first pizza places were racially segregated until 1964, serving nonwhite patrons in separate dining rooms, out the back door or not at all. By the ’70s, though, pizza was becoming a global phenomenon championed by youth and causing dozens of regional styles to take shape.

Now a proper pizza town, Richmond is ready to claim its own style of pie. But what is it? The first pizza here was made by immigrants from the Tuscany region of northern Italy. But since the 1970s, the oldest and most beloved pizzerias in town have been run by the sons and daughters of Carini, Sicily, and they have crafted a cheesy web of pizzerias that have been going for generations. Explore the pizza-licious history of our city and a common approach to the pies that we are dubbing “Richmond Cute.”

The First Slice

One of Richmond’s first documented pizzaiolos was Silvio Mario Funai, who was born in Lucca, Tuscany, in 1873. He and his brothers, Ferrucio and Giuseppe, came to Richmond by way of Scotland in 1905. The Funais’ first foray into the dining scene was a bar on the bustling corner of Madison and Broad streets. In 1920, Silvio Funai Confectioners opened at the corner of Fourth and Franklin streets. Decades later, the Richmond News Leader wrote in 1961 that patrons came to know Funai for his Italian-Scottish accent and penchant for quoting Shakespeare. In the piece, Funai’s son, Hamlet, claimed that his father made pizza in the confectionery shop.

Not much is known about Funai’s recipe. It was likely a pressed pan pizza, similar to Tuscan schiacciata (a type of flatbread), topped with tomato sauce, housemade fresh mozzarella (fior di latte) or Parmesan, and baked in a gas oven. In 1930, Funai told the Richmond News Leader, “Once you have tasted the James River water, you must always come back to it, and Richmond Italians who visit the old country find this to be true.” Perhaps the Richmond water was the secret to his pizza recipe.

In 1930, Funai brought in a partner, Pietro “Pete” Chiocca, who was also born in Lucca and had been running bars and confectioneries in Richmond with his family for nearly 40 years. When Funai retired from Funai & Chiocca’s in 1937, Chiocca renamed the business and raised four children — Andrew, Mario, Joe and Frank — in his Italian restaurant, Chiocca and Sons. Andrew took over when his father retired in the ’50s, and the building, which once housed the city’s first public library, was razed for a parking lot in 1961.

In 1945, Joe Chiocca opened Chiocca’s Uptown Restaurant across from The Byrd Theatre on Cary Street and served pizza. Andrew took over when Joe died in 1969. Mario opened Chiocca’s Downstairs on Belmont in 1956 and dished up little pizzas there. His son, Mario “Timmy” Chiocca Jr., is quoted in a 1981 Style Weekly article as saying that his uncle Andrew was “the first to serve pizza in Richmond.” Timmy and his sister Carla took over Chiocca’s Downstairs from their father Mario in 1977. The Chioccas sold the restaurant in 2010, and pizza disappeared from the menu.

Regas says the children of early Italian immigrants, like the Chioccas, took pizza from a snack to a main attraction. “It was that first generation to have been born here that rebelled against their Italian roots and mixed it in with American culture. That was one factor in the popularization of pizza.”

Menu Milestones

Other early pizza players include Peter Poli and Julian Moroni, Tuscans who opened Julian Italian Restaurant in 1947 in the Fan near what is now the Science Museum of Virginia. They were one of the first to have a dedicated pizza section on their menu. Although it wasn’t their main focus, Poli and Moroni’s round, wedge-cut, oiled-pressed pan pizza stole the hearts of many new-to-pizza patrons with its slightly sweet crust and seasoned sauce topped with ground provolone cheese.

Poli’s son, Peter Poli II, a commercial restaurant and kitchen designer and co-owner of Chesapeake Design and Equipment, started working at Julian at age 8 alongside his brother, cousins and aunt. “I’m incredibly lucky with the family I was born into,” Poli says. “[The restaurant] became a part of so many people’s lives. My nonno and uncle Julian, they took care of so many people.” His fellow back-of-house workers were a second family, Poli says. Julian was a beloved staple until it closed in 2006. 

Clem’s Lunch, which opened on Hull Street by Henry “Henny” Kocen in 1939, was the first to advertise pizza in the Richmond Times-Dispatch. Kocen was the son of Russian Jewish immigrant grocers. Although pizza was not a part of his family’s heritage or culture, he loved it. In 1949, he used cheeky weekly ads to hype 8- to 10-inch “Italian cheese and tomato pie” for about $1. A few weeks after Clem’s introduced pizza, ads read “Pardon our crust! We admit our first pizzas were not entirely to our liking. We have now developed the crust to perfection!”

Natale “Sam” Lombardo, a Sicilian, seems to be one of the first in Richmond to call his place a “pizzeria.” Lombardo ran several establishments in the city beginning in the 1930s, but pizza paid off. He opened Lombardo’s Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria in 1953 next to The Byrd Theatre. His ads in the Richmond News Leader touted “World-Famous Pizza” coming to Richmond as well as his establishment’s “special pizza ovens.”

U.S. Army veteran and restaurateur John Smorto also advertised special ovens. In the early 1950s, he bought Tom Tom’s, a vibrant nightclub on Brook Road, and added chef Giovanni Scotti’s Neapolitan-style pizza to the mix of live music and tropical decor. Ads in the Richmond News Leader picture Scotti holding a sizzling single-topping pie on a peel next to a Blodgett deck oven — a stackable commercial style touted for excellence.

Deluxe pizza came to town when Joe Mencarini of Lucca, Italy, opened the Fan’s time-honored Joe’s Inn in 1952 — now Richmond’s oldest pizza-serving restaurant. An early menu offered a deluxe pizza for $2.25 with cheese, pepperoni, mushrooms, anchovies, ground meat, shrimp and green peppers. In 1963, Smorto opened Pizza Shack in the Azalea Shopping Center; a 1975 menu lists a large deluxe pizza for $5.25.

Poli and Moroni of Julian joined forces with chef Andy Toracco of Starlight to establish Italian Kitchen on Meadowbridge Road in 1951. They advertised dine-in and takeout creations called “l’piz.” Manager Mike Montecalvo and his wife, Ellen, bought the place within a year and expanded to seat over 200 at picturesque tables with red gingham tablecloths and votive candles. Montecalvo and his brothers, Tony and Vinny, drew on recipes from their mother, Reginalda. Vinny said in a 1998 interview with the Richmond Times-Dispatch, “Our mother could cook a chair and make it taste good.” Mike died in 1993, and his daughter, Gina, ran Italian Kitchen until 2016.

Making Dough

Vinny Montecalvo and Constantine “Gus” Serafim opened one of Richmond’s most beloved pizza places, The Celebrity Room, off Route 1 near Lakeside Avenue, in 1963. A year later, Vinny took the lead at Italian Kitchen West in the Pine Dell shopping center, and Serafim went wild with personality and pizza at The Celebrity Room.

Tina Kafantaris, the current co-owner of Joe’s Inn and Shields Market, remembers The Celebrity Room fondly. “[It] was arresting in so many ways,” she says. “There was celebrity memorabilia on every square inch of wall space. They had a projector system, and we hoped to see our picture up there while we ate our paper cup of Italian ice. It was dark and sparkling and just incredible to a young kid. It is burned on my brain.” The pizza, she adds, was “just the big, greasy pizza of the late ’70s, which means it was awesome. There was nothing like it in the city.”

Retired production editor and Richmonder Beth Pearson, 69, recalled her first trip to The Celebrity Room in 1975. “I liked their kind of crust,” she says. “It was a little crispy, but not too crispy, and a little thick, but not too thick. They always put plenty of sauce on top. The sauce was a little rich. It was thick and red, almost sort of like there was a lot of tomato paste in it. The cheese had a very distinctive taste, and the closest I’ve been able to come to describing it is, it was nutty.”

According to Gus’ son, Alan Serafim, the unique flavor stemmed from the way the kitchen processed the cheese. “The mozzarella came in huge blocks,” he says, “and we used an industrial meat grinder instead of grating it.” 

Like the stars on the walls, The Celebrity Room made comeback after comeback, surviving a fire in 1976 and bankruptcy in the ’90s. The last iteration of The Celebrity Room closed in 2008. Alan made that same pizza while serving as the director of dining at Benedictine College Preparatory, before retiring in 2022. Padow’s Deli bought the legendary recipe from an unnamed business partner and served a version of the pizza at its Innsbrook location until it closed in 2023.

Alan says he is looking for an investor for a new pizza concept. Even now, he notes, people still see him on the street and ask, “Where’s the pizza?”

A Richmond Style Rises

The Celebrity Room pizza was Richmond famous, but was it Richmond style?

In the 1970s and ’80s, a new wave of Italians from Carini, Sicily, began opening pizzerias in Central Virginia. A Carini native and owner of Mary Angela’s in Carytown, Mario Lo Presti says, “You know our days, when people go somewhere outside Italy, they always connect with [home]. It’s kind of a family. They start to hang out together. That’s how we got this Carini community in Richmond.”

That community gave birth to many of the longest-operating and most beloved family-owned pizzerias in the area, ultimately influencing the style of pizza served here. The Southern and Italian hallmarks of hospitality and a slower pace of life altered the pizzeria experience from that of the Big Apple. The Carinesi cohort made both hand-tossed New York-style and thick Sicilian sfincione-style pizza, drawing influence from the islands of Belle Isle, Sicily and Manhattan, and gradually developing their own unique style of pie. Because Carini translates to “cute” in English, we’re calling it Richmond Cute Style. The establishment of this regional, very Richmond style demands recognition in the pages of pizza’s history.

Like the city itself, a Richmond Cute Style pizza is New York-ish but with subtle, supple differences. Round and wedge-cut, this pizza starts with a hand-stretched crust made from James River tap water, high-protein flour, salt and yeast. It’s topped with plenty of well-seasoned, savory tomato sauce and a blend of part-skim and whole-milk, low moisture mozzarella from Wisconsin. All this is baked in a stone floor deck oven fired to about 500 degrees Fahrenheit, creating a golden-brown undercarriage with a tender, chewy, crisp crust and slightly enlarged cornicione (the rim or edge) compared to New York style.

For the last 39 years, Mary Angela’s has served the quintessential Carini-influenced pizza. They start with Stanislaus tomatoes, high-gluten All Trumps flour and a blend of Lugano mozzarella, add fresh-cut toppings, and polish off each pie with a beautiful golden-brown bake. Although they have replaced their behemoth Blodgett double-deck oven a couple of times, Lo Presti says they have kept the same seasoned stones for the oven floor since day one.

After a stint in New Jersey, Lo Presti arrived in Richmond in the early ’80s, and his first job here was at Frank Mannino’s place, Anthony’s Pizza in Ashland. Mannino was one of the first Carinesi to set up here, according to Lo Presti, but certainly not the last. Dozens of pizzerias with direct ties to Carini spread out across central Virginia, and many are still going strong.

Lo Presti met his wife, Rosalia, while working for her father, Bernard “Joe” Oliveri, at Sal’s Pizza, which has been tossing dough in the 360 West Shopping Center since 1976. Rosalia’s uncle, Sal Leone Jr., opened Rosa’s Italian Ristorante & Pizzeria in Chester in 1976. The building is a repurposed midcentury modern bank, and you can dine in the old vault or pick up a pie from the drive-thru teller window. Sal’s and Rosa’s are the oldest pizzerias in the Tri-Cities area.

Mary Angela’s came along in 1986, making its debut in Carytown. It was opened by Mario’s brother, Joe Lo Presti, who named it for his daughter. Joe returned to Italy two years later, and Mario took the helm. Lo Presti says he was one of the first to bring the calzone to Richmond. “When we came to Richmond, there were not many pizza shops. I worked with two different chefs in New Jersey making calzones, and I did not see that here,” he explains. “I created my own and introduced it to the customers at Mary Angela’s.”

Joe and Mario’s brother, Rick Lo Presti, introduced Piccola Italy Pizza & Subs. The Virginia Commonwealth University campus stalwart debuted in 1987 at the corner of Harrison and Main streets. Rick was also a founding partner of Maldini’s Ristorante, which opened in 2005, but sold the business to manager Marcello Armetta, another Carini native, in 2009. The South Side spot is named after Armetta’s favorite soccer legend, Paolo Maldini. His favorite “cute” pizza combo? Artichokes, ham, onions, mushrooms and thinly sliced hot dogs. That surprising final topping is more widely accepted in Italy than pineapple.

Heart of Carini

Richmond’s Carini pizza connections extend far beyond the Lo Presti family. Salvatore Giambanco immigrated from Siciliy to New York in the early ’60s and moved to Virginia in 1976, where he opened Brother’s Pizza in Willow Lawn and Roma’s Restaurant in Tappahannock, along with several other pizzerias around the state. His descendants now operate Il Forno Bar + Grill in Ashland, Tony’s Italian Restaurant in Henrico, The Giambancos Italian Grill in Mechanicsville and Roma Ristorante Italiano on Staples Mill Road.

In 1978, Giosue and Rosilia Sanzone opened Carini Italian Restaurant on Williamsburg Road, which is known for its old-world ambiance and “Carini Pizza” topped with flavorful sauce and a generous golden-brown cornicione.

That same year, Carinesi Frank Carollo and his wife, Elizabeth, bought Brother’s, then went on to open Frank’s Ristorante & Pizzeria in Stony Point in 1991 and Frank’s West on Patterson Avenue in 1999. Their son Giuseppe Carollo, now the chef and owner of Frank’s, offers weekly specials featuring its thick Sicilian pies; hefty, well-decorated Detroit-style pizzas; and light, crispy Roman-style pizzas, as well as their “cute” and classic hand-tossed pizza. He is excited about the recognition of Richmond Cute Style. “A lot of these good older places get overlooked,” he says.

In 2008, Joe Lo Presti’s son-in-law, Antonio Altadonna, opened Arianna’s Italian Restaurant & Pizzeria on Sheppard Street. Since 2018, it has been operated by a couple from Carini, Fabrizio and Lucia Gallina. The Altadonna family also owns Pietro’s Pizza & Italian in Chester, open since 1980. The Altadonnas joined forces with Joe Conigliaro to introduce Fire & Hops Pizza Co. on Belmont Avenue, where they make Neapolitan-style pizza.

Conigliaro originally came over from Carini to help his father run Sergio’s Italian Restaurant in Chesterfield in 1991. Sergio’s was founded in 1985 by Antonio and Gaetano Buffa and named after Gaetano’s son, before being passed to Conigliaro’s father, Vito.

Conigliaro and his daughter, Jessica Conigliaro, also founded Joey D’s Frozen Foods in 2023. “It’s always about what we can do to get better,” Conigliaro says. “Till you’re 100 years old, you can learn new skills, you can always improve your craft.” The family plans to expand with an Italian-style market next to their restaurant in Brandermill.

The Richmond Cute Style and dynasty continues to grow as more Carini-influenced contenders open across the region. As much as pizza has become a family staple across the commonwealth and country, family ties have supported the earliest pizzaiolos in Richmond, binding the city’s favorite pizzerias together for decades, and, ultimately, fostering a new regional pizza style to adore.

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Knead to Know

A sampling of pivotal RVA pizza shops through the decades, from classic chains to cheesy mainstays, among the 200-plus pizzerias in the area

1920-37 Funai & Chiocca make the first documented pizza in Richmond.

1947 Julian Italian Restaurant opens.

1949 Clem’s Lunch (founded 1939) is the first RVA restaurant to advertise pizza.

1951 Italian Kitchen on Meadowbridge Road opens.

1952 Joe’s Inn, now Richmond’s oldest continuous restaurant offering pizza, opens.

1953 Lombardo’s Italian Restaurant and Pizzeria on Cary Street debuts, calling itself a “pizzeria.”

1963 The Celebrity Room opens.

1966 Shakey’s Pizza Parlour and Ye Public House debuts with a ragtime band.

1970 Pizza Hut premieres in RVA.

1976 *Rosa’s Ristorante Italiano in Chester and *Sal’s Pizza on Hull Street open. They’re considered RVA’s oldest “pizzerias.” *Brother’s Pizza in Willow Lawn opens. 

1977 *Anthony’s Pizza in Ashland opens.

1978 *Carini Italian Restaurant opens. 

1979 *Roma Ristorante Italiano in Mechanicsville opens.

1980 Domino’s Pizza debuts in RVA.

1985 *Antonio and Gaetano Buffa open Sergio’s Italian Restaurant.

1986 *Mary Angela’s opens in Carytown.

1987 *Piccola Italy Pizza & Subs opens.

1990 Bottoms Up Pizza opens in Shockoe Bottom with a unique recipe.

1991 *Sergio’s Italian Restaurant reopens with the Conigliaro family at the helm. *Frank’s Ristorante & Pizzeria opens in Bon Air.

1994 Superstars Pizza opens on Patterson Avenue, specializing in take-and-bake pies.

1995 Channello’s launches its first area location.

1999 *Frank’s West Italian Restaurant & Pizza opens in Tuckahoe.

2000 JoJo’s Pizza debuts downtown from Brooklyn-born Enrico “JoJo” Armetta.

2002 Italian eatery 8 ½ is introduced on Strawberry Street by Ed Vasaio, owner of Edo’s Squid and the bygone Mamma Zu.

2004 Assante’s opens on West Broad and Meadow streets.

2008 *Capriccios Italian Restaurant offers New York- and New Jersey-inspired slices in Henrico.

2010 Fresca on Addison, Richmond’s first vegan pizza cafe, opens. Belmont Pizza starts serving Sicilian pizza.

2012 Galley opens in South Side with noted pizzaiolo and percussionist Giustino Riccio on the peel.

2013 Dinamo debuts downtown with Italian and oil-pressed pan pizza.

2014 Christian’s Pizza of Charlottesville debuts near VCU.

2018 Pizza and Beer of Richmond from EAT Restaurant Partners starts serving Neapolitan-style pizza in the Fan.

2019 Fire & Hops starts spinning Neapolitan pizza.

2021 Pizza Bones from baker Ashley Patino opens in Union Hill, focusing on local grains and naturally leavened pies. Zorch Pizza by Rob Zorch begins serving New York-style slices in Carytown.

2024 Secret Squares from Willoughby Obenchain opens in Church Hill with deluxe Detroit-style pizza. Zorch Pizza Parlor debuts on Forest Hill Avenue. Furnace Pizza by chef West Mazah pops up in Petersburg.

2025 Black Olive Pizzeria RVA, a hip-hop-themed pizzeria, is launched by LaChan Toran.

*Richmond Cute Style