Pork chop with summer beans
From the moment The Roosevelt comes into view off a Church Hill roundabout, it commands your attention. The red clapboard building stands robust and bright as the streets bloom around it. The inside is cozy, accented by beautiful hardwood floors, a bronze-colored pressed-tin ceiling, and vintage photographs and etchings — the largest a massive photograph of Franklin Roosevelt hung near the kitchen.
Seasoned restaurateur Kendra Feather, owner of the 20-year-old plant-based eatery Ipanema Cafe, as well as Garnett’s Cafe and Laura Lee’s, opened The Roosevelt in July 2011 with then-chef and business partner Lee Gregory, who marks one year at his first solo venture, Alewife, this month.
Cornmeal-fried oysters
The Roosevelt was conceived as an upscale nod to Southern cuisine, a celebration of seasonality and inventive craft cocktails. From its inception it attracted local and national press. There, Gregory became an industry standout and earned three James Beard Award semifinalist nominations for Best Chef Mid-Atlantic. In 2014, it was named one of the best restaurants in the South by Southern Living magazine and dubbed one of the best bars in America by Esquire — moments that further catapulted Richmond’s culinary reputation into the national consciousness, while also helping to beget a new era of chefs and restaurateurs regionally.
Now, in the absence of key members of the original crew, including Bar Manager Thomas “T” Leggett, now co-owner of The Jasper, there is a new set of promising players. A local restaurateur, Mark Herndon — most notably of Buckhead’s and Sugar Shack — took over as Feather’s partner; 30-year-old Richmond native Matt Kirwan, formerly of The Shaved Duck, The Rogue Gentlemen and Eurasia, stepped in as executive chef; and Cary Carpenter now helms the bar.
Executive Chef Matt Kirwan
The menu blends Kirwan’s creations with Roosevelt staples, like pork rinds coupled with a hearty scoop of pimento cheese, a quintessential and quite filling Southern “snack.”
Liberally sprinkled with bacon, the steamed mussels swim in a broth of garlic scapes, smoked tomatoes, apple cider vinegar and smoked paprika butter. Use the hefty slice of grilled house-made sourdough as a sponge to sop up each drop of the pleasantly salty broth.
Six golden nuggets of cornmeal-fried oysters arrive nestled on top of a cold Hoppin’ John salad. The medley of heirloom Carolina gold rice, black-eyed peas and country ham vinaigrette beneath a bed of chopped romaine forms an amalgam of flavors, textures and temperatures.
While the summer bean salad produces a stunning array of colors, the execution and aesthetics don’t match. The beans were under-blanched, and the smoky tomato dressing and barbecue-flavored breadcrumbs were overpowering.
The Roosevelt’s dining room
A highlight of the evening was the pork chop, served with creamy pimento grits, umami oyster mushrooms and a sweet maple glaze. It prompted me on a following visit to order the newest iteration of the dish, which was joined by silky summer beans, a grilled peach puree and a peach-bourbon gastrique — the latter was remarkable.
The steak, on the other hand, left more to be desired. Although the medallions of Seven Hills Farm sirloin were well prepared, the smoked fingerling potatoes and demi-glace paired with them seemed uninspired for a restaurant that’s so focused on seasonality.
Peas of Mind cocktail
As for cocktails, the mossy green-colored Peas of Mind mixes Oster Vit, Bols Genever, Kronan Swedish Punsch and house-made spring pea simple syrup for an herbaceous and floral communion.
My companion chose The Seersucker, The Roosevelt’s signature cocktail, crafted with Maker’s Mark, angostura bitters and sweet tea syrup, then topped with a charred lemon. The classic summer drink is complex, stylish and booze-forward. Also noteworthy is The Roosevelt’s wine list, a collection of Virginia wines accented with an occasional California or Oregon vintage.
For dessert we ordered the chocolate mousse with a cookie crumble and whipped cream. Although delicious, I was a bit disappointed in the other offerings: coconut cake and a seasonal pie — which was apple in July. From a place that previously offered a foie gras pound cake, this felt like a missed opportunity.
I left The Roosevelt with a willingness to return, but there were a few uneven moments throughout the night where dishes were either too bold or not bold enough. However, part of The Roosevelt’s relevance lies in its agency and its established place in Richmond’s culinary canon. With a young chef who has almost found his steady footing, The Roosevelt has the potential to maintain its reputation.
3.5 out of 5 stars
623 N. 25th St.
804-658-1935
$4 to $26
