Editor's note: Grisette is offering to-go service at this time. Follow them on Facebook or Instagram for updates.
(From left) Grisette owner and Front of House Manager Megan Glass and Chef-owner Donnie Glass
If you drove along Marshall Street in Church Hill early last year, you probably noticed the storefront across from Alewife, which seemed to be “coming soon” for an interminable amount of time, even by Richmond standards. At long last, Grisette opened quietly in late August, after endless delays and months of speculation.
Behind the restaurant are Chef Donnie Glass, whom some may remember from his stint as executive chef at Charlottesville’s Public Fish & Oyster from 2014 to 2016; his wife, Megan Glass, who most recently cooked at Lemaire; and business partner Andy McClure of The Virginian Restaurant Co.
The word “grisette” has historically referred to a young, working woman, often known for exuding intelligence, flirtatiousness and an affection for the bohemian lifestyle. It is also a style of beer, a light farmhouse ale from the border region between France and Belgium.
For Grisette, the Glasses took inspiration from bouchons — traditional Lyonnais restaurants that are family-run and serve rustic, regional food. The name fits. And indeed, if I lived in a similarly sized town in France, I might have a neighborhood spot just like it: a place with unpretentious, easy vibes, simple but ambitious food, mismatched floral plates and a portrait of the late French chef Paul Bocuse on the wall, a place where neighbors seek respite at the 10-seat bar after work.
Despite all the French touches, Grisette doesn’t feel like it’s wearing a costume. The traditional quenelles de brochet and loads of offal have been replaced by grits and Surryano ham on the menu, you may hear hip-hop group The Pharcyde playing in the background, and you’re likely to bump into someone you know in the dining room. (We did, on both of our visits.)
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Steak frites
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The menu at Grisette
The menu changes weekly, full of robust, French country dishes with a Virginia influence. Under a neon sign that reads “holy s---,” a nearly floor-to-ceiling chalkboard lists cheese and charcuterie options — 15 and seven, respectively, at the time of our meal. Grisette offers three selections for $14, five for $22, or seven for $30. Our three choices all came from Charlottesville’s Twenty Paces Farm, plated with a variety of house-made pickles, seasonal jams and sauces, and thin slices of airy house-made bread — a fabulous start.
Following were mussels in a rich lobster broth with fennel, served with a crusty olive loaf, crisp frites and aioli, and a simple green salad with plenty of bite from the vinaigrette and freshly ground pepper.
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The bar at Grisette is a popular neighborhood hangout
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The dining room at Grisette
Rich is the adjective that kept coming to mind as I ate — sauces here are robust and deep enough, and meats and sides fatty enough, to make any French chef proud. But what might feel heavy and dull on the palate otherwise is nicely offset with plenty of acid, allowing dishes to feel balanced and lively. Meatballs of lamb and beef served over creamy grits with a slice of buttery-sweet confit cabbage are gifted a bright and luscious thick tomato sauce. Garlicky sausage, barley and root vegetables are joined by a tart mustard, a perfect foil. And the creaminess of the white pesto bucatini is offset by loads of lemon and chili flakes.
Grisette presents a relatively inexpensive wine list of smaller, family-owned vintners and serves well-made cocktails, but the real charmer here is the house beer — a grisette, of course — from Scott’s Addition’s Väsen Brewing Company. It’s a little funky, a little sour, but also light, crisp and drinkable, a lovely accompaniment to the food.
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A charcuterie plate
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According to its menu, Grisette’s “Redneck Riviera” cocktail “comes in one-of-them tiny inflatable flamingo floaties.”
A footnote at the bottom of the menu says to let your server know if you’re a vegan and “you won’t leave hungry.” Judging by the meat-heavy menu, I have to wonder what they could cobble together that would be truly vegan. But given the general tone of the service, I wouldn’t be surprised to hear that they keep something special on hand to prepare a full, multi-course, vegetable-only dinner for noncarnivores. Megan, who helms the front of house, seems genuinely thrilled to be on the floor, telling guests about her favorite wines and recommending dishes. Service tends to be slightly less attentive at the bar — sit there if you prefer to mostly be left alone.
Dessert needs a little work; our chocolate mousse lacked the delicate texture that makes the dessert light on the tongue, but I’d wager you may not have room for dessert by the end of your meal anyway.
Grisette succeeds in its vision, and after a few visits, it already feels like a neighborhood staple.
4.5 out of 5 stars
3119 E. Marshall St.
804-562-6207
$4 to $22
