A portrait of co-owner Melinda Guevara’s mother hangs inside Carmela’s.
It seems lately that my Instagram feed is in the throes of a full-on pizza obsession: Backyard pizza ovens, secret pizza pop-ups, dough fermentation experiments, mobile pizza ovens and plans for pizza-centric restaurants abound. Yet the options for a quality, sit-down pizza experience in the city have remained surprisingly slim. Carmela’s, located in the former Halligan Bar and Grill space in Shockoe Bottom, is joining a handful of spots in offering solid Italian-style pies in an atmosphere that’s as much suited for a group as it is for a romantic date night.
The venture from Melinda Guevara and her husband, Belmont Pizzeria co-owner Victor Guevara, opened in June. Named after Melinda’s grandmother, Carmela’s is heavily influenced by her family’s Sicilian heritage. A portrait of her mother, Assunta Nuara, painted by local artist Nico Cathcart, proudly supervises the dining room — both Melinda’s mother and grandmother contributed family recipes to the restaurant’s menu. The Sicilian influence is evident in appetizers such as panelle, chickpea fritters with a lovely creamy, crisp balance served with spicy aioli.
The Carmela pie is topped with Parmesan creme, arugula, garlic, lemon zest and artichokes.
The pizza, cooked in a brick oven, is not quite what most of us think of as Sicilian. It’s also not quite Neapolitan, and not quite Belmont’s signature big, cheesy pies, either. And that’s OK — it’s Carmela’s, and it’s good. The crust is sturdy and crisp, and while it lacks some of the flavor and chew of the long-fermented Neapolitan-style pies I’ve traditionally had, it stands up beautifully to the toppings at Carmela’s, which range from fior di latte to mortadella with pistachio.
Co-owner Victor Guevara in front of Carmela’s brick oven
Though Carmela’s presents upscale touches — cozy, dim lighting and a well-appointed bar — the restaurant stays true to its identity: It’s still a pizza parlor, a neighborhood spot, a place to casually pop in on a Tuesday with friends. Shakers of red pepper and powdered Parmesan cheese arrive at the table along with your pizzas, and the tomato sauce, generously ladled on, leans toward the sweet side. Salads with crisp romaine fall a little flat with mealy tomatoes. But cocktails are simple and well made. Pies are consistently good, and priced lower than most of similar quality found elsewhere around Richmond. And the vibe is relaxed, joyful and even occasionally a little raucous.
Soft globe lights ring a cozy bar and a smattering of tables. Tucked just behind them is the pizza oven and a sliver of counter where diners can watch their pizza dough get stretched and prodded — and occasionally, if the right pizzaiolo is behind the counter, tossed and spun in the air.
Piccante pizza
The piccante pizza, one of the standouts on the menu, emits an assertive heat thanks to the blistered, cherry-red Calabrian peppers dotted across the top of the pie. Luckily, if you’re dining with folks who are averse to spice, the pizza, topped with sopressata and pepperoni, holds up strongly, even if those unadventurous souls would prefer to pick them off.
The restaurant’s namesake pie, the Carmela, is laden with Parmesan creme, arugula, garlic, lemon zest and artichokes, their tang perfectly offseting the creaminess of the rich cheese. Other memorable pies are the mortadella, an agreeable combination of salty meat and creamy, sweet ricotta; and the Margherita, probably the best pie by which to judge a pizza spot — this one is crisp, fresh and saucy, with just the right amount of cheese.
Panelle, chickpea fritters served with a spicy aioli
Crisp potato cakes are a welcomed starter. While they could have used a bit of salt in the filling, the inside was luscious and the outside firm — a textural contrast even more enhanced when paired with a glass of bubbles.
Service can be a bit of a struggle — on a Sunday evening, there was only one bartender fielding the entire restaurant, which produced, as you might expect, rather poor service. To his credit, he apologized for the hiccups and comped our dessert at the end of a very extended dining experience. On a Wednesday night, however, our party of four was well taken care of, and the experience was streamlined and smooth — as soon as we finished our appetizers, the main course appeared, and our drinks were promptly refilled. Neither visit required us to wait for a table, an experience that’s pleasant but always makes me nervous in this town of overcrowded restaurants, some of which close almost as quickly as they open.
Carmela’s faces the 17th Street Market.
Small, rustic and homey, but chic, Carmela’s is a delightful spot to sit at the bar and relish pizza and Prosecco — one of the finest pairings possible, in my opinion. It can get loud when crowded, but I don’t go to a pizza joint expecting a quiet, reserved meal, and neither should you. It’s a spot for sharing pizzas and quite frankly, having fun.
4 out of 5 stars
3 N. 17th St.
804-351-5711
$4 to $14
