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Photo by Alexis Courtney
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Photo by Alexis Courtney
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Photo by Alexis Courtney
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Photo by Alexis Courtney
What came to mind with each visit to Kinsfolk was the writing process or, more specifically, the lengthy, winding path by which a concept gets extracted from one’s brain and prepared for consumption by the masses. When it comes to the new Forest Hill restaurant, there were flashes of brilliance, bold choices made, creative paths followed, visions artfully built, much as there ideally are in a first draft of a novel. Kinsfolk’s chef, Cory Chaney, is clearly inspired and can turn out flavors and textures with a deft hand. But, as every writer begrudgingly acknowledges, you can’t turn in a first draft; there’s typically too much of a good thing rambling around in there. Perfection is achieved in the editing.
The biggest “wow” elicited in my visits was induced by the honey- and chili-roasted mahi mahi, which came out glazed to a spectacular shine and mouthwateringly tender, its snowy flesh flaking just right onto my fork. That bite — the bite of the fish on its own, in its sticky, sweet-hot veneer — was masterful. The rest of the plate was crowded with elements that simply couldn’t keep up with it. I couldn’t figure out why a pile of artichoke salad was stacked atop, as the bright flavors of the fish needed no distraction. In addition to the salad, a wide smear of potent cumin-laced cream crossed the brim of the plate and crushed any other flavor it touched. Extra honey crisscrossed the dish, too. It seemed like the magnificent fish was not to be trusted alone with me.
The quail, however, was much more at home in its nest of complements. Creamy, smoky potato salad and sweet-and-sour pickles prepped the taste buds for its salty crunch; the inclusion of radishes ensured a bright pop of both color and zest with each bite, but the heavy, cold buttermilk sauce gribiche — typically boiled egg yolks, oil, mustard and herbs or capers — didn’t feel necessary given its similarity to the base sauce of the potato salad.
Simpler snacks nearly stole the show. The miniature cast-iron pan of fresh-made brioche rolls, kissed with truffle oil and piping hot, made the table very happy, as did the crackly, aromatic chicken wings and their bed of pickles. Chilly asparagus-infused vichyssoise cleared a nice, vegetal path for main courses, its silky texture playing nicely with the smoked olive oil and bits of preserved lemon that decorated its surface.
A parcel of mushrooms gave me pause, though. Some literal editing of the menu is needed, as the description reads “a wild blend of mushrooms” rather than “a blend of wild mushrooms,” although wild was the blend indeed. Large quarters of bulbous mushroom caps and thin white threads of what looked like enoki had been roasted with potatoes, wine, egg shavings and herbs, and possibly some cheese or cream, though that wasn’t listed with the other ingredients. The end product was intimidating, a textural puzzle with mysteriously over-rich flavor.
Brunch menu items were a thrilling read and were easy to devour, with standouts such as Key lime ricotta pancakes, s’mores French toast, and shepherd’s pie Benedict. The Monte Cristo arrived in its traditionally melty, sweet-savory glory, with no tweaks but a fantastic maple-bacon hollandaise dipping sauce. Eggs of all preparations were a win: Poached and scrambled alike were clearly cooked with great care and experience. Soy chorizo, mushrooms and spinach crowded the veggie Benedict, though; it needed one of those things, not all.
All in all, Kinsfolk is well worth a trip. The chef’s skill is clearly there; you may just have to sort through a few of the delicious elements on the plate, or edit the dishes yourself by requesting one or two things be stricken from the finished product. As enjoyable as the little indulgences are on their own, they don’t always play nicely as a congregation. You have to kill your darlings, even when it breaks your butter-loving heart.
3 out of 4 forks
3516 Forest Hill Ave., 525-5500
Hours: Tuesday to Friday: 5 to 10 p.m.; Saturday: 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m.; Sunday: 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.; lunch pick-up and delivery Monday to Friday: 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Prices: $5 to $24
Handicapped Accessible
