The following is a sneak peek from our July 2019 issue, heading to newsstands soon.
What’s the restaurant where you take friends from out of town when they come to visit? The one you save for moments when you really want the city to turn on its charm? In my perpetual campaign to convince friends to move to Richmond, I’m constantly on the lookout for the next restaurant I can impress them with. The goal is always to show off the breadth of what the dining scene here can do: classic Virginia dishes, of course, but also world-class French pastries, fine Indian cuisine, refined cocktails and killer wine lists.
Owner and Front-of-house Manager Lyne Doetzer (left) and Chef-owner Randall Doetzer
Adarra, newly opened in February by husband-and-wife team Randall and Lyne Doetzer, has already ascended to the top of my “look how good we have it here” list. Randall, the former executive chef at Nota Bene, and Lyne, the former front-of-house manager at The Stables, both seasoned veterans of the Richmond restaurant scene, finalized a deal in January on the space at the corner of First and Jackson streets that used to house Rogue, and they’ve transformed it into a welcoming, Basque-influenced escape.
The interior has been subtly updated, and the overall effect is a bit cozier and rustic than its predecessor: warm terra-cotta-colored walls, appropriately dim lighting and — so rare in chic restaurants these days — comfortable chairs (hallelujah!) that invite you to stay awhile.
The bar and dining room at Adarra
What will really make you want to linger, however, is the food, shepherded by Randall. The small but thoughtful menu commingles Basque dishes and local ingredients in a way that manages to be both sophisticated and gloriously unfussy. Adarra is a mountain south of San Sebastian, Spain, and the menu delivers what the name promises. A plate of pintxos — three spears of pickled guindilla peppers, an olive-oil-cured anchovy and a Castelvetrano olive, served with an optional ounce of fino sherry — provides a perfect pickly, briny start to a meal.
Indeed, from appetizers to dessert, the parade of dishes I encountered was consistently delightful, crafted with obvious skill and a respect for the ingredients. The caracoles, with a green garlic broth, are rich and herbal. The tuna conserva, with a lima bean ragout, is tangy, salty and complex, and the sauce begs to be mopped up with the Idle Hands bread that accompanies it. And don’t deprive yourself of a plate of nutty, rich Iberico ham, widely considered some of the best in the world, sliced from a nearby carving station.
Tuna conserva
Adarra is a solid pick for a date night or going out with a group of good friends; a meal there naturally encourages conviviality, since almost all of the menu consists of small plates meant for sharing. You’ll want to order at least one of the two larger plates Adarra offers, at present a tender, slow-cooked rabbit leg with mushrooms and a bright, tomato-y fish stew featuring a nuanced, layered flavor that was the favorite of the night. Save room for something from the simple dessert menu, too: The panna cotta is delicately sweetened, and the walnut ice cream with sherry reduction is rich and velvety, with an irresistible tang from the sauce that blankets it.
A plate of pintxos with fino sherry
Upon opening, Adarra retained Bar Manager Paul Blumer from Rogue, and his devotion to cocktails remains: Patrons of the space’s former occupant will recognize the section on the drink menu that invites guests to choose a handful of descriptors (like “refreshing,” “herbal” or “boozy”) and let the bartender construct a cocktail for them. Though drinks featuring ingredients such as avocado-washed aquavit and chamomile-infused cachaça might seem a bit out of place with this particular cuisine, the five variations of gin and tonic and a rotating selection of draft ciders are natural pairings.
Both Doetzers are Level 2 sommeliers, and the wine list is a dream for fans of natural, biodynamic and skin-contact wines. We reveled in the rare list and ordered a funky white from Cantina Margò, a small winery in Umbria, that paired perfectly with the food. Those familiar with wine lists around the city may find the prices a little high — the Pinot Noir 2016 Milan Nestarec Forks and Knives, for example, listed here for $66, can be found for $55 elsewhere — but the selections are imaginative and wonderful.
The restaurant is intimate, and tables are packed closely, which might be a hurdle for Richmond diners who are used to plenty of elbow space. During busy hours, the service can feel slightly harried, but when the servers are at your table, they take their time, make recommendations and possess the knowledge to guide guests. All in all, Adarra is a welcome, worthwhile addition to the city — and a place I look forward to using to brag about Richmond.
4 1/2 out of 5 stars
618 N. First St.
804-477-3456
$5 to $26
