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TOMATILLO BASICS
Buying: Tomatillo husks yellow with age, so look for bright green husks that tightly hug the firm, unblemished green fruit. To remove the sticky husks, run under water before cooking.
Cooking: Char tomatillos directly on a hot grill for an extra layer of flavor before adding them to salsas, soups and stews, or use them raw to enjoy their piquant zing.
NOT A TOMATO
Native to Mexico, these chartreuse fruits are bright and acidic, the perfect foil for creamy avocado or a clever way to amplify ceviche. Fiber- and antioxidant-rich, tomatillos are also high in pectin, which helps add viscosity to sauces and even jam.
AROUND RVA
Salsas Don Sebastian: Freshness is key when it comes to the family-owned company’s salsa verde, which gets an extra kick from serrano peppers.
Pepe’s: It’s a put-it-on-everything situation when it comes to the spicy tomatillo salsa at Pepe’s. On the carnitas tacos, it adds a fiery punch.
Precarious Beer Project: Available locally at Longoven and Caboose Market & Cafe, the Lit Fam gose from this Williamsburg brewery packs a pucker with tomatillo and lime.
“We love cooking with tomatillos because they are so versatile.” —Karina Benavides, co-owner of Abuelita's
Abuelita's owners Karina Benavides (left) and Everardo Fonseca (Photo courtesy Abuelita's)
COOK LIKE A LOCAL
Costillas de Puerco en Salsa Verde (Pork Ribs in Salsa Verde Stew)
By Karina Benavides, owner, Abuelita’s
At the South Side eatery Abuelita’s, owners Everardo Fonseca and Karina Benavides specialize in Mexican stews called guisos. For this stew, the duo simmer pork ribs in a roasted tomatillo-based salsa verde, serving it with rice, beans and stack of homemade tortillas. “You can roast tomatillos to get a wonderful smoky flavor in the salsa … you also get hints of bitterness, which is great in full-flavored meats like pork,” Benavides says.
3 pounds pork ribs, cut in two-rib sections
1 pound tomatillos, husks removed
2 poblano peppers
2 serrano peppers
1 white onion
3-4 cloves garlic
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Salt to taste
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place pork ribs in a deep pot and cover them with water. Cook ribs until tender, approximately 40 minutes. Meanwhile, roast tomatillos, onions, poblano and serrano peppers. Blend all ingredients together in a blender. Saute salsa verde in oil, add pork ribs, and cook on low for about 15 minutes. Check and adjust salt as needed. Serve with rice, beans and tortillas.
