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BERRY BASICS
Buying: Follow your nose to strawberries with the sweetest perfume, a whiff of spring. Plump, pink berries with bright green leaves are the freshest, while smaller berries pack big flavor.
Cooking: The best treatment for something so delicate is nothing. Add fresh whipped cream and a slice of buttery cake if you must. They release water, so compensate for the additional moisture when baking.
STRAWBERRY FIELDS
First cultivated in Brittany, France, in the 18th century, the garden strawberry lends a sweet, juicy punch to desserts from pie to ice cream. Strawberries freeze well and can be kept frozen for months, so they make a great addition to smoothies.
AROUND RVA
Agriberry Farm and CSA: Farming on 25 acres in Hanover, the Geyer Family has been cultivating berries and fruit since 2008. They also make a variety of jams.
Byrd Farm: In the Stoneman family since the 1800s, this certified organic farm grows fruit, veggies, herbs and flowers, while also raising pastured chickens.
Amy’s Organic Garden: Amy Hicks and George Ferguson are known for a wide variety of flowers and organic produce, including the sweetest little strawberries.
“I enjoy trophy hunting for the biggest berries, eating the sun-warmed fruit right in the field.” —Colleen Geyer, River City Bakery
Photo courtesy River City Bakery
COOK LIKE A LOCAL
Strawberry-Almond Tart
By Colleen Geyer, owner of River City Bakery
Growing up on a fruit farm, Colleen Geyer says strawberries were the first seasonal produce to sprout in the spring. The farmer-turned-baker uses the versatile, unfussy crop in this classic tart, along with a number of items she sells at the Birdhouse Farmers Market.
Note: Prepare the pie dough and almond frangipane up to two days ahead of time, and store in the refrigerator.
Pie Dough
4 1/2 ounces (or 1 cup) all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 ounces (or 6 tablespoons) cold butter, cut into half cubes
2-3 tablespoons ice-cold water
Combine the flour and salt in a medium bowl. Add the cold cubed butter and use a pastry cutter, two knives or your fingers to cut in the butter until it’s the size of small peas. Start by sprinkling 2 tablespoons of water over the mixture and gently tossing with a fork. You want the dough to come together with no dry bits, without being sticky or tacky. If the dough hasn’t come together, add more water, 1 teaspoon at a time.
Form the dough into a disc, about 3/4-inch thick. Wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate it until it is chilled, at least one hour or up to two days.
Almond Frangipane
2 ounces (or 4 tablespoons) butter, room temperature
1 3/4 ounces (or 1/4 cup) sugar
1 egg
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
2 ounces (or 2/3 cup) almond flour
Combine the butter and sugar in a medium bowl and mix until it is light and fluffy (this can be done with a mixer or by hand using a wooden spoon or stiff spatula). Stir in the egg and almond extract, then mix until it is homogeneous. Next, stir in the almond flour. The mixture should have the texture of frosting — spreadable, but not soupy.
Cover and refrigerate the mixture until you are ready to use it. It can be stored in the refrigerator for up to five days. Note: You will only use half of the frangipane for this tart.
Strawberries
1 pound fresh strawberries
2-3 tablespoons sugar
Assembly and Baking
Remove the frangipane from the refrigerator to soften it while you prepare the fruit and dough. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a sheet tray with parchment paper. Prepare the berries by rinsing them, cutting off the hulls and slicing them in quarters. Place the berries in a bowl and set it aside.
Roll out the chilled dough on a floured surface until it is a disc about 12 inches in diameter. Then transfer the dough to the parchment-lined tray. If the dough is too soft, put the whole tray in the refrigerator for 5-10 minutes to chill.
Spread half of the almond mixture in an even layer on the rolled-out dough, leaving a border of 1 1/2 to 2 inches. It will be about 1/4-inch thick.
Toss the sliced berries with 2-3 tablespoons of sugar, then put all the berries on top of the almond mixture. Fold the edges of the dough over, creating a rustic pleat to hold the strawberries in place.
The tart should now be 8 1/2 to 9 inches in diameter. Brush the edges of the dough with egg wash and sprinkle with coarse sugar, if desired.
Bake in the preheated oven for 35-40 minutes, until the crust is golden and the center jiggles only slightly. Cool the tart completely before slicing. Enjoy as is or with your favorite ice cream or freshly whipped cream.
