Illustration by Kristy Heilenday
History
Squash was the first crop cultivated by the earliest inhabitants of the Americas, predating maize and beans. Popular in Mexican, Native American and Italian cuisine, squash blossoms found favor on American — and especially Southern — plates due to their versatility and abundance. While both summer squash and winter squash produce edible flowers, summer varieties, specifically zucchini, are often the most sought after for mild, floral flavor and vivid color.
What to Buy
The squash plant produces male and female blossoms, both edible. If harvesting from your own garden, glean in the morning, and pick more male than female blossoms to preserve your crop. Female blossoms will appear bulbous at the base, where the fruit is forming, while male blossoms form at the end of long, fruitless stems. If you happen to make it to the market early enough to score some there, look for blossoms that open easily, in bright orange and yellow hues, with no brown around the edges. These flowers are extremely perishable, dainty even, so plan to use them within the same day.
How to Prepare
Clean squash blossoms gingerly, with minimal water and handling. It’s unnecessary to remove the pistil and stamens prior to eating, but if you insist, hold blossoms upside down, allowing the petals to fall open naturally, and reach inside with careful fingers or a pair of long, skinny scissors to remove the offending pollination equipment. Store cleaned blossoms in a single layer between paper towels until ready to use. The Italians stuff blossoms with fresh ricotta and fry them in a dish called Fiori de Zucca Ripieni; in Mexico, a soup of squash blossoms, shredded chicken and fresno chilies goes by the name Caldo Xochitl con Flor de Calabaza. Other popular preparations include adding raw, chopped blossoms to quesadillas, pastas and salads.
Blue Crab, Squash Blossom and Ramp Frittata
Serves 4
By Andrew Manning of Longoven
6 eggs
1 teaspoon olive oil
1/2 cup ramps, chopped
1/2 cup squash blossoms, chopped
1/2 cup lump crab meat
Pinch of salt
2 tablespoons basil, chopped
1 ounce Parmigiano Reggiano, grated
Preheat your broiler. Beat eggs with a fork until well whipped, and set aside. In a 12-inch nonstick sauté pan over medium heat, add olive oil and sauté the ramps until tender, about 2 minutes. Add the squash blossoms, crab meat, salt and eggs. Add the basil and Parmigiano and stir. Cook over medium heat until the eggs begin to set, about 5 minutes. Finish under the broiler until lightly brown and fluffy, about 3 minutes, and enjoy.
