Photo by Lauren Baldwin
ON RABBIT
As a sustainable animal protein option, rabbit offers plenty of advantages. Easy to raise on a small scale, packed with lean protein and fed a diet of alfalfa, it's a strong contender for the future of white meat.
RABBIT BASICS
Buying: Look for plump, blemish-free pink flesh when at area farmers markets. Independent butcher shops can source and break down rabbit by request, while grocery chains offer them in the freezer section.
Cooking: Because rabbit is so lean, it’s necessary to add fat throughout the cooking process to avoid it becoming too dry. Braising keeps the meat tender while adding rich flavor.
AROUND RVA
Bistro Bobette: Pulling from German influences, the braise includes onion, mushrooms and smoky bacon, served with fluffy spaetzle.
Swan Dive: Chef Kevin Roberts riffs on French themes, braising rabbit in grainy mustard and heavy cream.
Belmont Food Shop: The kitchen balances between serving a roasted loin or braised legs, integrating seasonal produce like pea shoots.
Photo by Justin Chesney
“Wild rabbit is suited to a slow, gentle braise with loads of carrots and onions, and maybe a pint of dry cider.” —David Crabtree-Logan, chef/co-owner of The Broken Tulip
COOK LIKE A LOCAL
Rabbit in Mustard Sauce
By David Crabtree-Logan, chef-owner at The Broken Tulip
Serves 4 (or 2 very hungry people)
Chef David Crabtree-Logan’s version of rabbit in mustard sauce, a French country classic, features farmed rabbit gently braised in a rich sauce of mustard and sour cream. “I like to use some whole-grain mustard as well as the more traditional Dijon to add a bit of texture. If you hunt or have friends who do, this is very well-suited to wild rabbit.”
1 large farmed rabbit, 1 1/2 to 2 kilograms, cut into 8 pieces
A knob of butter
4 shallots, peeled and sliced
1 onion peeled and diced
3 large cloves garlic, bashed a bit with the side of a knife
1 bouquet garni containing 2 bay leaves, a large sprig of thyme and some parsley stalks
1 glass white wine
1/2 cup creme fraiche*
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard
1 pint chicken stock (homemade is best, but a decent organic carton brand will work. If it’s a choice between “stock cube” or water, use water)
Preheat your oven to 350. In a casserole large enough to comfortably hold all of the rabbit pieces, heat the butter until foaming, then brown the rabbit pieces over medium heat until nicely golden on all sides. Remove the meat from the pan and set aside. Reduce the heat slightly and add the shallots, onions, bouquet garni and garlic; sweat gently until soft but uncolored, about 20 minutes. Turn up the heat, add the wine and reduce until it is almost dry, then return the meat to the pan. Add the creme fraiche, mustards and stock and bring to a simmer.
Cover the casserole with a tight-fitting lid, and transfer to the oven. Cook for about 1 hour, until the rabbit is tender and the sauce has thickened somewhat. Taste for seasoning and add more mustard and salt if you feel it needs it. Serve with boiled potatoes or grits and a nice green salad the rabbit would have enjoyed.
*This term tends to indicate the more expensive type of sour cream in the store, but any cultured cream will work. To make your own “creme fraiche,” add 2 tablespoons of live yogurt or kefir to a cup of heavy cream and leave at room temperature for 24 to 48 hours until thick and tangy.