Hachiya (left) and fuyu varieties of persimmons (Illustration by Lauren Baldwin)
HISTORY
Persimmons, those tomato-ish fruits with the crispy, frilly stems, are one of autumn’s most satisfying snacks. With a subtle floral flavor similar to apricots, persimmons lend themselves to sweet and savory applications. Native to China and brought to the U.S. in the 1880s, they now grow along the East Coast with a huge showing in California. The fruits are found in two main varieties, the acorn-shaped hachiya, which is ideal for baking, and the rounder fuyu, which can be eaten raw in various states of ripeness.
HOW TO BUY
The fuyu persimmon, typically available at farmers markets in the fall and at Asian and some big-box groceries, should shine with a rich orange color, glossy, taut skin and have the slightest bit of give.
HOW TO PREPARE
For quick snacking, remove the stem and slice the fruit in rounds or wedges. Versatility and mellow flavor make persimmons a good fit for sweet breads, as well as savory preparations such as chicory salads or wrapped in thinly sliced cured meats.
Kamut Persimmon Muffin
Recipe by Beth Oritsian, owner of Sugar & Twine
Yields about 24 muffins, depending on size
Persimmon compote:
8 persimmons (fuyu variety is best here)
1/4 cup maple syrup
1/4 cup white sugar
2 teaspoons freshly grated ginger
1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste (sub vanilla extract or 1/2 vanilla bean)
Muffins:
8 ounces butter
1/2 cups kamut flour
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 3/4 cups white sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
2 cups plain yogurt
2 eggs
1/4 cup toasted almond slices (optional)
For the compote: Chop persimmons, removing the stem but keeping the skin on. Remove seeds as you run into them. Place persimmons in a pot with maple syrup, sugar, ginger and vanilla bean paste and cook on medium heat until the mixture begins to resemble a thick sauce. Set aside.
For the muffins: Place the butter in a pot on medium heat. While the butter melts, whisk together dry ingredients in large bowl. Create a well to place your eggs and yogurt.
Once butter is melted and bubbling, whisk gently. Remove from stove once the butter is aromatic and golden brown. Pour butter onto the yogurt and gently mix ingredients together until a smooth batter forms.
Line muffin pans. Place a small scoop of batter into each cup, followed by a teaspoon of compote. Repeat step. Top with toasted almond slices and a sprinkle of white sugar. Bake at 350 for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the tops of the muffins spring back when touched.
