Raw peanuts from Suffolk (Photo by Lauren Baldwin)
PEANUT BASICS
Buying: The “Virginia” is considered the gold standard of peanuts in the U.S. for its large size and satisfying crunch when roasted. Brands like Hubs, Whitley’s and Feridies have long histories.
Cooking: More similar to a pea than a pecan, fresh peanuts should be treated like the legumes they are: boiled low and slow in a heavy pan with plenty of salt.
ORIGIN STORY
Like so many Southern staples, peanuts were introduced to this country by enslaved West Africans during the Colonial period. A common legume and a steady source of protein during the Civil War, they have grown in popularity ever since.
AROUND RVA
Sabai: The satay gai is classic — grilled chicken skewers drenched in a coconut-tinged peanut sauce with a whisper of chile, served with a sweet cucumber slaw.
Tazza Kitchen: Roasted beets cozy up to a spicy peanut salsa made by cooking peanuts and sesame seeds with chiles and garlic before blending in brown sugar and vinegar.
Comfort: Get the spicy honey-roasted Virginia peanuts, then order jarred pickles, pimento cheese and house-cured ham rolls to create a Southern comfort pu pu platter.
“I mean, let’s be real here, peanut butter is by far one of the greatest culinary creations.” —Clay Hoss, executive chef at Helen’s
Photo courtesy Clay Hoss
COOK LIKE A LOCAL
Peanut Fried Chicken and Country Queso Waffles
By Clay Hoss, executive chef at Helen’s
Serves 8-10
For the chicken
4 small chicken breasts
3 tablespoons paprika
1 1/2 tablespoons ground cayenne
4 tablespoons garlic powder
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 tablespoon ground nutmeg
3 tablespoons kosher salt
1/2 cup white wine vinegar
2 cups Virginia peanuts, salted, roasted and finely ground, plus 1 additional cup for finishing
1 cup panko bread crumbs
1 cup all-purpose flour
Use a meat tenderizer to tenderize the chicken breasts. Cut along the center of the breasts lengthwise with a knife to make eight tenders. In a mixing bowl, combine the seasonings and the vinegar. Whisk until the seasonings are evenly blended, then add the pieces of chicken to the marinade and let them sit for about half an hour. In another mixing bowl, combine the dry ingredients.
In a cast-iron skillet or large saucepan with higher edges, add about 3 to 4 cups of frying oil. Heat the oil until the temperature reads about 350 to 375. While the oil is heating, place two pieces of chicken at a time in the bowl with the dry mixture for the chicken breading.
Fry pieces for about three to four minutes. You’re looking for that nice, deep, golden color on the outside. Serve with country queso waffles.
For the waffles
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 large eggs
1 1/2 cups buttermilk
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
For the filling
1 pound mild country sausage
2 ears corn, kernels shaved off the cob
1 large tomato, diced
4 green onions, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 serrano or jalapeno peppers, finely chopped
2 cups pepper jack cheese, shredded
1 cup sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
1/4 cup oregano leaves, finely chopped
1/2 cup basil leaves, finely chopped
1/2 cup cilantro leaves, finely chopped
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon paprika
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, for cooking
Heat a large saute pan on medium to high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil to the pan — this should be ready for cooking once the oil is loosened, shiny and freely moving throughout the pan. Add the sausage and cook, stirring occasionally with a rubber spatula until the meat has fully browned and the fat has rendered into the pan. When the sausage is cooked through, add the remaining ingredients for the filling, excluding the cheeses. Stir the ingredients in the pan until they have been heated through and then set aside to cool for about five to 10 minutes.
In a large mixing bowl, combine all dry waffle ingredients and whisk until everything is evenly mixed. In a separate mixing bowl, add the eggs and buttermilk, whisking until eggs are fully beaten. Add the remaining wet ingredients to the egg mixture until evenly incorporated, then pour the mixture into the dry ingredients. Whisk together until the mixture becomes thick and there are no lumps of dry ingredients left. Do not overwork the batter, or you will risk having waffles with a somewhat tough texture.
Once the filling has cooled, gently fold it in the batter with the cheese using a rubber spatula. Heat a Belgian or standard single waffle iron until it reads ready. I usually set mine to the maximum setting and lightly grease the waffle iron with butter or vegetable oil. However, with this batter, the moisture of the ingredients folded into it will release some while cooking, adding a natural grease to prevent sticking and adding lots of flavor. When the waffle iron is ready, place about three large spoonfuls onto the iron, press down firmly and release. This should take about two to three minutes until you get a nice deep brown color and crispy edge.
To assemble the complete dish
Place the waffle on the center of the plate and add the peanut fried chicken to the middle of the waffle. I personally find that it’s best dressed with a good amount of raw local honey, hot sauce, more peanuts, lime zest, shaved radish and basil leaves. You can use whatever your heart desires, but please take my word for it: The peanut, honey, lime and basil combination really rounds out the flavors.
