Crystal Stokes, co-founder of Frank Community Farm, foraging yaupon
Richmond magazine: When did you first discover yaupon?
Crystal Stokes, co-founder of Frank Community Farm: About four years ago, a friend mentioned that he tried [the leaves of the] yaupon, a species of holly tree, and that it was native to the United States and caffeinated. Much to my surprise, it was really good and definitely offers a feel-good buzz and focus.
RM: What makes yaupon unique, and why do you choose to make yaupon tea?
Stokes: Native Americans were the first to discover the beverage and referred to it as the “purifier” or the “beloved tree.” It was consumed by Indigenous people when making big decisions and during purification ceremonies. Yaupon was traded overseas, but as it gained popularity, the European tea market felt threatened. Imports were limited and soon dissipated after it was falsely documented that it made people vomit after consuming it. Yaupon was given the scientific name Ilex vomitoria, and consumers were then afraid to drink the beverage. As a Black and Indigenous farmer, the history and erasure of yaupon enrages me. It is important to me to educate people on the history of yaupon and to bring it back into the market.
RM: What would you stress regarding the importance of yaupon?
Stokes: I believe we should be consuming more local foods and beverages when we can to reduce our carbon footprint. Researchers are predicting that coffee will not be sustainable in the next decade. That isn’t far away. Yaupon is abundant in the wild and doesn’t require any fertilizers, extra inputs or extra water to grow. It’s truly sustainable.
RM: Where do you forage yaupon locally?
Stokes: We have about 200 trees on our farm that we harvest from occasionally. We also forage in the Pungo area of Virginia Beach and [in] northeastern North Carolina.
RM: How would you describe the taste of yaupon?
Stokes: Yaupon is earthy and sweet, and you can literally blend it with almost anything. Our dark roast is smoky with caramel notes; it’s my favorite and is such a great coffee replacement. The peppermint patty blend is one of our best sellers, while the medium roast is comparable to an oolong tea and is floral, grassy and fruity.
RM: Where can people buy the farm's yaupon tea?
Stokes: Sub Rosa and Perk sell it by the cup and retail bags. You can also find retail bags at Sneed’s Nursery and purchase our teas online at frankcommunityshop.org.
