Lillian Thorne (Photo by Jay Paul)
Every restaurant has someone who keeps the flow going behind the scenes, a role that may be less visible but is undeniably vital. Often unsung, dishwashers ensure service is seamless while leaving their egos at the door. At Grisette in Church Hill, Lillian Thorne has helmed the dish pit for nearly three years, taking on a demanding job with a strong work ethic and a deep respect for kitchen life — along with a fondness for sweets and a post-shift cigarette.
Richmond magazine: Where are you from, and how long have you been in Richmond?
Lillian Thorne: I’m from a small town called Elm City in North Carolina. I grew up as a theater kid and went to college at the University of North Carolina and have a degree in gender studies, with minors in social work and sociology. During school, I worked at a hotel and a beloved burger joint. I moved to Richmond in 2021; my brother lived here previously. I was a patient care navigator for Health Brigade, and, after being a caretaker for my father, I worked at Ellwood Thompson’s.
RM: Was Grisette your first dishwashing job, and what made you want to do it?
Thorne: Yes, it was. I love the front of the house. I’m really good at it. I am very chatty and personal. But it’s about reading your audience, and seeing what does this guest want tonight? That’s really fun, but I find it’s another kind of mental drain. You have to lock in for hours. I wanted a break from the pressure. And it’s not even necessarily that those pressures have been put upon me by employers, but that’s how I show up in that space. It’s nice to be like, I’m coming in a bandana, braiding my hair, [wearing] my dishwashing shirt that’s covered in bleach, cracking my knuckles and getting to work. Dishwashers don’t get a lot of credit, and there’s a lot of turnover in a dishwasher position, because it is a physically draining job. Even if you are surrounded by the best co-workers who are uplifting you — [which] my co-workers do, and I love them for it — it’s easy to feel drained. They are constantly telling me I’m their rock, and that I’m the backbone, and I want to be that for them.
RM: What is your role in the success of a shift?
Thorne: This is such a unique position, because nine times out of 10, you’re alone, so you’re the only one in that moment that’s experiencing that exact moment. Everyone else has different tasks, different pressures, and you’re assisting both the front and back of the house, trying to facilitate everything. At this point, I know what tools the chefs will need and at what point during service. That preemptive knowing is something I take pride in. I may not be reading guests like I did in front of the house, but I’m reading my team — anticipating their needs and keeping communication open when things change. It’s very much a, “Babes, I got you” role.
RM: Do you listen to music in the dish pit?
Thorne: Grisette’s small, so if you walk past the hallway, you can hear my music. I have so many different playlists, I love to keep people on their toes. One day it’s gothic, spooky but upbeat. Other days it’s old folk music, like the Kossoy Sisters or Elizabeth Cotten — she’s from North Carolina, so I have to rep. Nina Simone, too. I like old, random stuff. People compliment it, and I tell them, “I want you to catch a vibe while you’re back here.”
RM: When is it game on for you in the dish pit?
Thorne: Other than Saturday nights, [it’s] farm events, which we do throughout the year. I grew up rural; my dad’s family were farmers. I picked peas and husked corn. The first time I went to one of these events, I was calling him like, “Dad, you’d love this.” It reminded me of my home. And, what an honor to be a part of a restaurant that is teaming up with a local produce farm. In years prior, I was washing dishes with bus tubs and a garden hose. Then suddenly I’m standing at the edge of a field at sunset with a three-compartment sink, while service is happening behind me. It’s wild and incredibly collaborative. Seeing that creative side of the work is mind-blowing.
This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
