The following is an extended version of the article that appears in our May 2026 issue.
Keera Mason
Keera Mason, 27, grew up in Petersburg, raised on fatback and family, and some of her earliest memories trace back to the kitchen. An art school dropout turned culinary school graduate, she has worked the line at The Roosevelt for the past two years and become an essential part of the team that has breathed new life into the 15-year-old Southern restaurant. With a knack for braising — she can tell when brisket is done simply by the smell — Mason credits the culture there, along with support from the restaurant’s chef, Leah Branch, a recent James Beard Award nominee, for shaping her success.
Richmond magazine: What are some of your earliest food memories?
Keera Mason: Early in the morning, my mom would fry fatback, and we’d have a bowl of eggs and she’d send us on the way. I loved that so much. I was born eating foods that my grandma used to make, like okra stew. It’s so good when it’s cold or you’re sick. I don’t know if you’ve heard of s--- on a shingle [creamed chipped beef on toast]; we used to eat that as well. My mom has always been trying to introduce my sister and I to new foods. As we got older, she would adventure out to more East Asian food and Southeast Asian foods. She’s always cooking for people on Sundays, and breakfast and brunches and stuff. So, food’s always been a big part of my life.
RM: Have you always had jobs in the industry, or how did that connection start?
Mason: Originally, I was going to school for graphic design, but I didn’t feel happy. I think it just wasn’t the right time, or the passion wasn’t there. I took a gap year, and I started working at Walmart in their deli and decorating cakes. I just loved it. Then I decided to go to culinary school and did the two-year program at [Reynolds Community College]. I graduated in 2024.
RM: When did you join The Roosevelt?
Mason: In 2024, I started an internship with The Roosevelt during my last year in school. Then I asked chef Leah, “Can you keep me, please? I want to stay.” It’s funny, I originally connected with Leah [while shopping] at The Market at 25th. I didn’t know who she was, but my classmate encouraged me to go talk to her. I went and asked for her Instagram and then DMed her. I did a stage and have been there ever since — that was it.
RM: What was your initial impression of The Roosevelt when you started?
Mason: At first, intimidated. It was the first kitchen where people were knowledgeable, willing to help and nonjudgmental, and just open to new things. They’d ask me, since I was in school, “What have you learned?” The people there are very passionate about food, and I feel like it’s pretty evident.
The culture there is refreshing. I would compare it to getting out of a toxic relationship and realizing, “Oh, I didn’t know that this is normal, this is what I should have and what I deserve.” I’m not being worked to the bone, my time is respected, and I’m valued as an employee.
Keera Mason and Leah Branch
RM: How do you feel reflecting on day one versus now in terms of growth?
Mason: Definitely a huge difference. I was timid in the beginning. It was very stressful, especially that first day, working with chef Leah, working with these different ingredients I hadn’t worked with before. And now, it’s like, “Oh, I know this, I know what to do, I’m safe.” Chef has never been the one to beat people down or break down your spirit, and I realized that, after working with her for a while, she’s very forgiving. I’m essentially a line cook, but I usually close, so I also work saute, and sometimes I’ll GM, and I’ve run food before. I want to work behind the bar, too; I want to learn everything.
RM: Leah just got the James Beard nod. How does it feel, knowing that you’re essentially her backup?
Mason: I was ecstatic. No one gets to see how hard she works every day. She’s making sure, even on her days off, that everyone’s straight and that we feel comfortable for service throughout the week. Now it’s showing; these are the results. It’s well-earned, and I’m proud of her. She’s making history and is a force to be reckoned with. She’s always learning, she’s still evolving, she’s still exposing herself to new foods and always trying to do something new and keep it alive and keep everyone on their toes.
RM: What was attending culinary school like for you?
Mason: My mom and dad were like, “We could see you flourishing in that environment, yeah.” And at first, I was scared, thinking, “Is this going to be like another repeat of school before?” I was a little nervous, and I was really shy and timid to go to school and work in the kitchen. But as the months and the years went on, I just opened up more and more. School was pretty hard, intense and very humbling. Would I do it again? No. Oh, but I’m glad I did it.
The Roosevelt’s braised brisket
RM: Is there a skill, dish or ingredient that you feel like you’ve really homed in over the past two years?
Mason: Honestly, we cook a lot of brisket, and after a while you just know by the smell that it’s done. And then we’ll just test it to see, and it’s usually always done. So, braising essentially.
RM: Looking down the road, what is on your vision board?
Mason: I really want to cater or be a private chef. For now, I just want to travel around and cook around and just gain more experience under my belt. But essentially, I do want to open a small business of some sort.
RM: If you’re at home, is there a dish you lean on?
Mason: My mom likes my chicken tenders a lot. I think she just likes the batter — I do buttermilk and hot sauce, let them marinate for the day, and do a double batter, like a Hardee’s-style chicken tender. Any time they want me to cook something, I step up. For Christmas, I make cinnamon rolls.
RM: Are there some Petersburg hidden gems you like to go to?
Mason: I like to go to Nanny’s Restaurant. Their hours are limited, but they’re so good. Also, Saucy’s Barbecue.
RM: Outside of work, what do you like to do?
Mason: I wouldn’t say I’m a nerd, but I’m kind of a nerd. I like to go to anime conventions and play Zelda, League of Legends. I like playing video games. I haven’t been drawing as much, but I like to draw, go on walks and go to the beach. I’m definitely going to the beach this summer to soak up some sun.
This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
