Illustration by Ally Hodges
Seeds are the starting point of a farmer’s journey, a symbol of agricultural opportunity and ancient technology. Many have traveled hundreds and even thousands of miles to companies such as the Southern Exposure Seed Exchange (SESE) in Mineral.
Home to more than 700 types of heirloom seeds, SESE shelters seeds that are anywhere from 50 to 250 years old.
More than 60 percent of the seeds at SESE are certified organic, and the majority are gifted from the hands of farmers, some of whom have been growing and providing seeds for SESE for over 20 years, while others are grown directly at the exchange.
A visit to SESE is a showcase of open-pollination rarities like the Anne Arundel muskmelon grown in Maryland as early as 1731, or New Zealand summer spinach discovered in England in 1772.
“Part of our mission is to help another generation of seed savers get the experience and learn to value seeds,” says Ira Wallace, a veteran employee at SESE.
The preservation and conservation of seeds is imperative. Without places like SESE, seed varieties would be at risk of extinction, and crop diversity would continue to diminish.
Imagine a market where striped tomatoes or oddly colored blue potatoes can’t be found. Instead, every tomato and potato is identical. When only one crop variety is grown, it becomes less resilient against disease, contains fewer nutrients and is less flavorful.
Diversity in crops should be welcomed, not shunned. Heirlooms are fighters — they’ve battled years of pests and disease, learning to adapt and protect themselves against varying climates.
“The best seed companies are heirloom-focused, so by supporting heirlooms, I’m supporting them,” says Dominic Carpin, owner of delli Carpini Farm.
As Monsanto, the world’s largest seed company, becomes more heavily involved in seed production, seed diversity decreases, making seed exchanges and banks more crucial than ever for heirloom varieties from small farmers. According to a report by the ETC Group — an international organization monitoring the impact of technology and corporate strategies on agriculture and biodiversity — 70 percent of Monsanto’s profits come from seed production, and the company makes up almost a quarter of the global commercial seed market.
“It’s important to have alternative seeds that are more controlled by the people,” Wallace explains. “If you are trying to have a more diverse, long-term and sustainable food system, seeds are the beginning of food.”
