Brandon Bundy and his wife, Latoya Bundy, at the Farmers Market at St. Stephen’s
The term “heirloom” elicits multiple reactions in contemporary food culture: curiosity about a historical food experience, excitement about depth of flavor, relief that varietals are being saved from extinction, confusion about what “heirloom” even means. The term can even be slammed as a fad — especially when it comes to tomatoes. The appeal of heirloom tomatoes, with their brief natural season, short shelf life, and outsized quality and range of flavors, blazed the trail for the heirloom movement, but a good look at the importance of (mostly) lesser-known heirloom crops should inspire hope that they, too, will find increasing enthusiasm on menus across the country.
To claim the title of heirloom, a crop must be open-pollinated, which means the breeze and the bugs do the work naturally and spontaneously. The cultivars cannot be genetically modified or bred with others, and they must have been in existence for 50 years. Or 100 years. Or since 1945, when the widespread introduction of hybrid varieties hit the marketplace. The timeline is a hotly debated topic in production circles. Heirlooms also have ties to the area in which they’re first grown, though they can be grown anywhere once they’re established and still be considered an heirloom. Eating one feels like a connection with history, the savoring of a flavor as it was experienced generations ago.
Heirloom tomatoes
In Virginia, finding heirloom seeds from which to grow your own potent bites of food history is a bit easier than finding heirloom produce to buy and cook at home. If gardening is your thing, Virginia Free Farm in Kents Store and the Southern Exposure Seed Exchange in Mineral are excellent resources. To purchase heirloom produce, farmers markets, small organic-focused markets, farm stands and CSA shares are your best bets, although it's important to inquire about specific varietals because not every farmer highlights a crop’s heirloom status.
Locally, Bundy Heirloom Farm can be found each Saturday at the Farmers Market at St. Stephen’s. This year, the crop list from the purveyor, which operates about an hour and a half outside the city, includes thick Bloomsdale spinach, Bradford and Georgia Rattlesnake watermelons, Burgundy and Clemson Spineless okra, Black Beauty zucchini, Honeyrock muskmelon, Silver Queen corn and more. At the same market, Broadfork Farm’s much-loved deep-orange heirloom Danvers carrots can be spotted.
“Heirlooms can be tricky to grow,” Brandon Bundy says as he recounts starting his farm. “They’re not as high yield, not as disease resistant. But the flavors are much more bold.”
A former chef who spent 10 years working in restaurants from Julep’s to the shuttered SaltBox Oyster Company, Bundy favors prominent flavors, so they’re a strong priority for the farmer. “The Bradford watermelons — people love those. They’re giant, solid-dark-green melons with white seeds, and the taste is outstanding, sweet as can be.” The Honeyrock melons, which are similar enough to cantaloupe to be called such, are also prized for their intense floral sweetness and firm texture.
Another Virginia farm, Delli Carpini in Beaverdam, began with founder Dominic Carpin’s intention to grow Italian heirloom crops on a small scale, plant by the moon and almanac, and follow biodynamic practices. He had been a serious heirloom hobbyist grower prior to starting his commercial venture.
“Heirlooms resonate with people,” Carpin says. “Some people say hybrids are better, or stronger, but that isn’t always the case. A lot of F1 hybrids [plants with two distinct parents] are taken off the market; they might look better and last longer, but they don’t taste as good.”
Seen here cutting garlic scapes, Leah Branch, executive chef at The Roosevelt, works with heirlooms often.
Hybrid varietals have largely been chosen by industrial growers for hardiness. Controlled pollination results in massive crop yields all at once, rather than gradually over a season. They’re uniform and predictable, and consumers have developed an aesthetic preference for them over time.
The California Wonder green pepper is an heirloom, and there’s a high likelihood that it’s stashed in your veggie drawer right now, as it’s the commercial standard for peppers. Hybrid development and production can be means to address changing weather patterns, soil conditions and human needs. Humankind has reaped massive benefits from hybrids, but they have come at the cost of retaining biodiversity. Carpin protects Italian varietals such as the pleasantly sweet and aromatic Tropea onion and the treasured, spherical Borettana Cipollini.
At The Roosevelt in Church Hill, Executive Chef Leah Branch often works with heirlooms, especially during the summer. “I love the stories behind heirloom produce,” she says.
Admitting to a soft spot for fruit-forward Jimmy Nardello peppers, Branch has showcased the heirloom in several dishes, blistering them over stracciatella and serving it with chili crisp and confit bacon or pairing them with seared scallops, bok choy, lemon jam and emmer wheat berries. And while they are great frying peppers, exuding a creamy texture that chefs are drawn to, Branch says that, above all, it’s the lineage of the heirlooms that is captivating.
“When Jimmy Nardello peppers are happening, the kitchen gets very excited,” she says. “The idea of an immigrant family with 11 kids settling in Connecticut, then passing the Nardello [seeds] over to Seed Savers almost 100 years later. ... There is a rich history behind the sharing of seeds; it’s nice to be a part of keeping that alive.”
Groundscores
Easily foraged summer edibles
There’s quite a bit of food out there in your yard or a nearby park if you’re industrious about gathering it. Here are a few specimens to get you started this summer.
Dandelion
This childhood friend reduces inflammation; is packed with calcium, potassium, iron, magnesium, vitamin A and more; and the entire plant, root to flower, is edible. While summer dandelion is a bit more spicy and bitter than spring growth, you’ll likely appreciate its flavor if you’re a fan of arugula. Pull the whole plant up by the root, then triple-wash all parts before consumption.
Wood Sorrel
Often mistaken for clover (which is nontoxic, whew), tender-petaled wood sorrel is distinguishable by its triad of heart-shaped leaves. The leaves, stems, and small, yellow flowers are edible, and their oxalic acid content gives them a lightly sour flavor profile — if you’re prone to kidney issues, oxalic acid can be tough on your system. Wood sorrel is full of vitamin C and is best eaten raw in salads or herb-loving recipes.
Japanese Knotweed
Lemony, juicy knotweed stalks are a delight, and they can be found along the James River. Young stalks look a bit like red-green asparagus. Just peel and eat them, or make into pickles! Or sorbet! Two important notes about knotweed: It has a toxic semi-lookalike, pokeweed. Knotweed leaves are heart-shaped and the stems are splotched green and purple, while pokeweed’s leave are oval and the stems are solid purple. Don't throw knotweed scraps in your compost unless you want a yard full of knotweed next season.
