To simply know about Fire, Flour & Fork cannot compare to immersing oneself in the four-day foodie affair and its more than 40 events, ranging from sit-down dinners to symposia, bartender battles and walking tours. From Thursday, Nov. 1, to Sunday, Nov. 4, food-curious visitors from across the country, top chefs, journalists from Bon Appetit and Garden & Gun magazines, farmers, and purveyors invaded the city, and Richmond and its ever-growing food scene proudly shone.
Attendees don’t merely feast upon food at FFF, they meet the faces behind the plate. The event, which turned 5 this year, offers a curated learning experience in pursuit of the theme “Your Fork, Your Future,” which highlighted how food has, and will continue, to affect our lives in meaningful ways. Proceeds benefit a variety of local nonprofits.
From the spare, modern, European aesthetic of Brenner Pass in Scott's Addition to the fields of Autumn Olive Farms in the Virginia heartland, inside the kitchen at the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts and along the James River at Historic Henricus, the opportunities for culinary adventures were vast. Many of the events sold out, including the "XXX Food Porn XXX" dinner from chefs Jack Vidra and David Shannon of L'Opossum and an omnivorous dinner at Longoven that featured guests chefs the Lee brothers — a duo of James Beard Award–winning authors — and Atlanta's Steven Satterfield, a James Beard Award winner for Best Chef: Southeast in 2017.
Here’s a glimpse into the event that left me, and my stomach, eagerly anticipating the next:
‘Fish Focus: Sustainable Seafood’
Heritage, Thursday, Nov. 1
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Local wild striped bass with a Hubbard squash puree, vanilla bean, and cider-glazed Italian chestnuts; when the server dropped this course off, she said, "That puree is everything."
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The evening started with a crudo duo. On the left is sea trout with Sicilian pine nuts and Meyer lemon juice. On the right are pieces of blackfish accented with clementine. Both were drizzled with Sicilian olive oil.
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Dave Pasternack, James Beard Award winner for Best Chef: New York City and chef of Esca, in the kitchen at Heritage
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Sparatta has a knack for homemade pasta, and this gnocchi sardi with 'nduja, Autumn Olive Farms Italian sausage, cherry stone clams, broccoli rabe and cherry peppers showed off his skills.
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The sold-out "Sustainable Seafood" dinner comprised three seatings. Pasternack stopped by tables and the bar to speak with guests.
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Preparing the Autumn Olive Farms coppa for the final course.
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Autumn Olive Farms coppa served with a farro "risotto," butternut squash, Brussels sprouts and black truffle dashi
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Dessert consisted of a blood orange and Campari pâte de fruit, chocolate truffle and biscotti.
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Sparatta working the line to ensure a steady flow of service
I couldn’t resist the opportunity to experience the sea-centric delights hailing from Chef Dave Pasternack of Esca restaurant in New York during the sold-out "Fish Focus: Sustainable Seafood" dinner at Heritage. Anthony Bourdain once said, “I doubt there is a human being alive who knows more about fish than Dave Pasternack.” Pasternack and Joe Sparatta, chef-owner of Heritage and Southbound, presented a thoughtful, enticing four-course meal sprinkled with autumnal nuances. I enjoyed their ability to showcase seafood with ingenuity, from crudo to pasta. Pasternack not only engaged guests with his creations but made a point to stop by tables and connect with guests. The beneficiary of this event was the Virginia Oyster Shell Recycling program.
‘GoT Game’
Mise en Place, Friday, Nov. 2
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The dinner started with rustic homemade bread, a salad of greens paired with mustard vinaigrette, and oat cakes.
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Every recipe for the dinner was derived from a locality mentioned in the book "A Feast of Ice and Fire: The Official Game of Thrones Companion Cookbook." This dish is a twist on potatoes au gratin using turnips.
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Co-author and chef Sariann Lehrer of The Broken Tulip signs her GoT-inspired cookbook for guests.
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The "GoT Game" dinner was served family style. The beef and bacon pie was a crowd favorite.
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The dinner blended historical and modern recipes including this pea porridge.
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Guests talk among themselves and pass plates during the family-style dinner.
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Chef Lehrer roasted a whole pig from Harlow Ridge Farm served with au jus.
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The evening concluded with a poached pear from High Garden served with ice cream and meringue.
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GoT-Inspired attire was encouraged for the dinner.
I’m going to be honest: I don’t watch Game of Thrones. When someone says, “Winter is coming,” I think of the season, and I couldn't tell you who Jon Snow is. But Sariann Lehrer, co-owner and chef of The Broken Tulip in Carytown, also co-author of "A Feast of Ice and Fire: The Official Game of Thrones Companion Cookbook," opened my eyes to the fantasy world of the story. Mise en Place cooking school was transformed into an underground culinary lair. Guests dined at communal tables and passed plates, during the medieval family-style meal, requiring everyone to interact with neighboring diners, which they gladly did. Some folks even dressed up for the festive feast.
‘Food U’
Virginia Museum of Fine Arts and Virginia Museum of History & Culture, Saturday, Nov. 3
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Justin Cherry, chef-owner of Half Crown Bakehouse in Charleston, South Carolina, brought his bread-making skills and a 3,200-pound 18th-century clay oven with him, positioned at the entrance of Food U.
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Birdie's dished out a variety of their pimento cheeses including the latest, smoked gouda and pepper.
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Fire, Flour & Fork co-founder Susan Winiecki welcomes "students" to Food U and introduces Bon Appetit Deputy Editor Julia Kramer and television personality, author and chef Carla Hall.
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Carla Hall kick-started the day with a Q&A led by Julia Kramer of Bon Appetit, who said she visited Richmond last year, and it enticed her to come back. Hall exuded a contagious, vivacious energy, spoke about her new cookbook and the evolution of her career and the industry, and cracked jokes along the way to engage with the audience.
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Joy Crump, former "Top Chef" contestant and owner of two Fredericksburg restaurants, Foode and Mercantile, led a biscuit-baking demo.
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Crump and a Reynolds Community College culinary student plate up biscuits with sausage gravy, marmalade, pimento cheese, and candied bacon and honey butter.
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Trade a slurp for a scoop: Before mignonette, Virginians were enjoying oysters in ice cream. The "Into the Stacks" class exposed attendees to Virginia’s food past, with a peek inside the VMHC’s rare book room, featuring collections spanning 400 years, including the first cookbook printed in America, "The Complete Housewife."
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Pleasure House Oysters, hailing from Virginia Beach, offered guests their legendary Lynnhaven oysters paired with an apple mignonette.
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Philip Rhodes, executive managing editor of Garden & Gun, explored the many facets of Southern food during "Forgotten Recipes of the South." Have you ever heard of a peanut butter and mayo (Duke's, of course) sandwich? Maybe some pork brains? Rhodes, a Tennessee native, says he eats his eggs "fried, or not at all," after the many tales his mother shared of pork brains being served with scrambled eggs.
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Rhodes signed copies of "The Southerner's Cookbook: Recipes, Wisdom, and Stories," a publication from the editors of Garden & Gun, following his presentation. During the discussion he touched on the notions of different Souths, the "ultimate G&G recipe" for bacon crackers, along with "soup beans," cracker salads, fruit-tea punch, and country vs. city ham. Afterward, guests tried sweet potato candies and a cream cheese-based dip.
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Tanya Cauthen, owner of Belmont Butchery in Richmond; Chef Luke Owens of Chef & the Farmer in Kinston, North Carolina; and North Carolina farmer Warren Brothers, along with Kevin Jamison of Commune in Virginia Beach and Heather Coiner of Little Hat Creek Farm in Roseland, led an intimate and engaging discussion highlighting the importance of preserving heirloom varieties and heritage breeds.
On Saturday I grabbed my backpack and headed to "Food U," an event held at the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts and the nearby Virginia Museum of History & Culture. Reminiscent of my college days, the university-esque setup offered an array of classes, demos and tours to chose from. Typically, during my VCU days, drinking occurred after class, but in between classes at Food U, guests could sample local libations and tastes from purveyors. From pierogi making to sampling Virginia wines, reveling in the secrets of wood-fired delights, tips on clean-eating and an exploration of Virginia waters, Food U offered something for everyone.
‘Smoke on the Water’
Henricus Historical Park, Saturday, Nov. 3
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View from the entrance to the event
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Wood-grilled octopus with wilted radicchio, pickled fennel, fennel fronds, squid ink emulsion and mojo de ajo from Rappahannock
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Lead oyster-shucker TJ, from Rappahannock, enjoys "Smoke on the Water."
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Joy Crump traveled from "Food U" to "Smoke on the Water," offering guests roasted autumn root vegetables over smoked nut butter with sweet herb sauce. Crump also crafted a spiced bourbon cider with smoked caramel.
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Dale Reitzer, chef-owner of Richmond's Acacia Mid-town, presented a "waterman's cake" with pickled fish, Southern coleslaw, smoked paprika and tartar sauce.
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Smoke on the Water guests enjoy the food, drinks and view.
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Chef Adam Goodison of Commercial Taphouse prepared a hoecake using the entire Berkabaw pig. The Berkabaw is a trademarked pig, a cross between the Ossabaw and Berkshire breeds, from Autumn Olive Farms. The hoecake featured collard greens, beans baked in a bone broth, pickled onions, and pulled Berkabaw pork smoked on cherrywood from Autumn Olive Farms.
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Executive Chef Aaron Deal from River & Rail in Roanoke plates his dishes.
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Deal served smoked pastrami with a spiced oxtail marmalade and bone marrow toast.
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Carolina-style minced pulled pork sandwich from Inner City Blues served with coleslaw and beans
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Chef and co-owner of Dutch & Co. Caleb Shriver mans his grill.
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Shriver served a memorable grilled quail with roasted sweet potato, pineapple and pickled Trinidad perfume sauce.
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Carena's Jamaican Grille offered a few items, including a cubed spicy pork shoulder over butternut squash (left) and Appleton-glazed ribs with a pineapple-jalapeno slaw.
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Edwards Virginia Smokehouse has been offering their smoked country ham since 1926.
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S'mores, a perfect ending to "Smoke on the Water"
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Justin Cherry's clay oven made its way to "Smoke on the Water," where he dished out a rustic oyster stew served with hearth-baked bread.
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The Virago Spirits team were at multiple FFF events serving a delicious and refreshing cocktail with mint green tea, lime juice and their Four-Port Rum.
An impressive view of the James, a feeling of escape from the city and a crisp fall night set the tone for "Smoke on the Water," a signature FFF event. As the sun set, the comforting scent of burning wood drifted through the air, and the twang of bluegrass could be heard in the distance, guests savored an assortment of roasted and smoked offerings including grilled quail from Dutch & Co., a spin on crab cakes from Acacia Mid-town and plenty of barbecue.
‘Pie in the Sky’
Virginia Museum of History & Culture, Sunday, Nov. 4
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Billy Fallen of Billy Pie brought his mother's famous cream puffs.
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Good Foods Grocery's spinach pies, generously stuffed with spinach and cheeses, had people coming back for seconds.
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Greenbriar Cafe and Coffeehouse presented two quiches: a Reuben with sauerkraut, Russian dressing and rye crust, and a mushroom, sweet potato and caramelized onion with smoked Gouda.
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Slice of Joy offered mini versions of a pear, apple and cranberry pie with a walnut crumble.
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Superior Creamery & Confections caught people's eyes with their unicorn marshmallow treats that were airy, light and full of color.
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Pao Cake brought a wide variety of pies, including a coconut custard (left) and chocolate mousse.
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Guests of all ages participated in the pie walk.
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Quiche from Greenbriar Cafe and Coffeehouse
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Pork, plum and pear pies from Red Cap Patisserie
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Savory lamb hand pies from Root Stock Provisions served with a cranberry mostarda
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Sugar Soiree brought along chocolate chip, confetti and rocky road cookie dough bites.
Sunday was spent relishing pies of all shapes and sizes. The family-friendly event "Pie in the Sky" presented a variety of sweet and savory samples. Local bakers, pastry chefs and restaurateurs dished out dessert slices and pleasing pockets of dough stuffed with meats, cheeses and vegetables. Guests participated in a pie walk, a nod to the traditional cake walk, which dates back to the late 19th century.
‘Broadly Speaking’
Brenner Pass, Sunday, Nov. 4
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From left, chefs Julia Sullivan, Brittanny Anderson and Olivia Wilson in the kitchen prior to service
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Cheetie Kumar (right) and Brittany Cassidy in the kitchen of Brenner Pass
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The evening began with am achiote-cured Thai snapper taco paired with a pineapple-jalapeno salsa, avocado and cilantro by Christine Rivera of Galaxy Taco.
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Butternut squash, aji dulce pepper, green tomato, peanut and marigold from Julia Sullivan of Henrietta Red
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An Indian-inspired twist on shrimp and grits featuring coconut-poached lump crab meat and Carolina shrimp, rice middlins upma and carrot rassam from Cheetie Kumar of Garland restaurant in Raleigh
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Brittanny Anderson prepared a foie gras-stuffed guinea hen with sunchokes, green peppercorn, maitake and black truffles.
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Lamb neck ragu, brown butter spaetzle, and candy roaster and delicata squash from Brittany Cassidy of the forthcoming Birdie G's in Santa Monica, California
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Fermented kabocha, cheesecake, saffron yogurt and pears from Olivia Wilson of Brenner Pass
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A mole sorbet, with caramelized cacao butter and a peanut marzipan from Isabel Coss, a Mexico City native and chef at Cosme in New York City
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All the chefs gathered at the end of the dinner to thank guests for their support.
The final event I attended included a cast of top chefs from La Jolla, California, to New York City, all of whom were women. Brenner Pass co-owners Chef Brittanny Anderson and Pastry Chef Olivia Wilson hosted "Broadly Speaking," a seven-course dinner with drink pairings at their Alpine-themed restaurant. The energy among the women chefs was apparent and infectious — a few even got matching lucky horseshoe tattoos to commemorate their FFF experience. When I stepped into the kitchen prior to service, the chefs were snapping pictures, laughing and navigating around one another in a manner that made it seem like they’d been cooking together for years. Before guests dove in, each chef spoke about her course — all of which presented varying takes on worldly cuisine — establishing a connection with diners and bridging the gap between a mere plate of food and a culinary understanding of what they were about to enjoy.
Note: Richmond magazine Editorial Director Susan Winiecki is a co-founder of Fire, Flour & Fork.
