Brittanny Anderson, chef and co-owner of Richmond's Metzger Bar & Butchery and Brenner Pass, will open a fast-casual restaurant in Washington, D.C. (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
When you hear the name Brittanny Anderson, perhaps James Beard Award nominations or her celebrated chicken schnitzel come to mind, probably not fast-casual food or grab-and-go juices. But after two successful openings in the past six years — the intimate German den in Union Hill, Metzger Bar & Butchery, and the Scott’s Addition Alpine chalet, Brenner Pass — the chef and co-owner is ready to venture outside of her hometown, and her comfort zone. This spring, Anderson will debut Leni, an all-day cafe in D.C. located inside the forthcoming food hall The Roost.
“I’m intrigued by the idea of doing an all-day cafe with breakfast and lunch," Anderson says of her decision to focus on the sometimes underrated daily meals. “It’s an opportunity to do something a little different that I can’t do at my other restaurants.”
A popular girl's name in Germany, Leni could be considered Metzger’s more laid-back and health-conscious sister. Although the menu will have a healthy spin, the flavors that put Anderson on the national culinary map will remain prominent.
“I wanted something that … stayed true to what I do,” she says. “Things that really fit into the German, eastern European cannon of things I already cook.”
The cafe will embrace the ’70s health food and hippie movement, and guests can expect plenty of sauerkraut and other fermented foods, as well as nut breads, seeds and sprouts on the menu. And while the menu is still in the works, there is talk of potato rosti with smoked fish, pretzel and schnitzel breakfast sandwiches with the fresh cheese quark, and juices, including savory varieties.
Anderson describes the interior of Leni as modern, feminine and a little funky. Pinks and dusty mauves will be prominent along with “’70s Southwestern colors.” Leni marks a new chapter and a way for her to challenge herself as a cook and restaurateur after launching two successful operations.
“I’m ready to push my managerial side of things a bit more, and I'm kind of trying to let my team and amazing people that work for me take the wheel and really kind of run things on their own,” she says, adding that she feels she owes it to herself and them. “I’m challenging myself to let go a little bit and also try to push myself into a larger role in my businesses and other businesses.”
Anderson is not the only prominent Virginia chef with plans for a fast-casual concept, reflecting a larger trend in dining: At the end of last year, Patrick O’Connell, chef and proprietor of The Inn at Little Washington, announced plans to open a more casual cafe version of his three-Michelin-star restaurant.
“For me, doing something of this size was important because I felt like I could still have my hands on it and a personal touch,” Anderson explains. “I do think chefs are interested in kind of doing fast casual because you can reach more people, and I think that’s what we want most, is to be able to connect with more people through our food.”
The Roost, a self-described "culinary clubhouse" and operated by Neighborhood Restaurant Group, will feature approximately 10 diverse restaurant concepts. It is the same group working on the 25,000-square-foot food hall opening in Scott’s Addition, The Belleville, that will be home to The Veil Brewing Co.'s new taproom.
Anderson says Richmond diners shouldn’t worry, she plans to return to Richmond upon the opening of Leni, and that “she’ll never be able to not fully be at Brenner and Metzger," but D.C. has always been on her radar, and this was a great opportunity to seize.
“I think you have a really great market of people who are excited about food, and I think I do something a little different than what I see there now,” she says. “I felt like I could find a little spot for myself that made sense and is hopefully interesting to the people in D.C.”
