Last week we debuted Part 1 of an exploration of Richmond's pop-up scene, and this week we return with Part 2. From Mayan-inspired fare to authentic pierogies, feast your eyes on this selection of new and seasoned pop-ups.
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Ned Curry (left), who grew up in Russia, prepares food during a Gold Cart pop-up. (Photo courtesy Gold Cart)
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Liz Rosenberg serving customers during a pop-up (Photo courtesy Gold Cart)
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Members of Gold Cart and friends following a pop-up at Hardywood (Photo courtesy Gold Cart)
Gold Cart
Founded: In December 2016 by a quadruplet of friends and partners, Andrea and Ned Curry, and Eric Heffernan and Liz Rosenberg. Andrea currently serves as assistant manager of Perch, Ned focuses on catering events for Gold Cart, Eric helms the bar at Lunch and Supper, and Rosenberg is a health care professional.
Cuisine: Gold Cart pop-ups are themed celebrations that bring together nostalgia and globally inspired bites with heavily local sourcing. They have channeled the '80s with an ode to the martial arts action star Jean-Claude Van Damme via “Jean Claude Van Brunch,” which featured "kung pow" fried chicken and scallion waffles with hot honey; offered carnival bites including doughnut burgers and turkey legs during “Fantasy Fair”; served cafeteria lunches with “Back to School"; and showcased Eastern European fare, a reflection of Ned's Polish background, with pierogies and kielbasa. “Our whole idea was doing things you couldn’t base a restaurant concept off of — something fun that maybe we’ve always wanted to do," Andrea explains. "We really want it to be an experience.”
Background: Three out of the four Gold Cart members are industry vets who met while serving on the opening crew at the now shuttered Pasture. With a shared love for food, they threw a dinner party, and after a successful soiree the squad continued to tap into their culinary prowess. Their first pop-up was held at Citizen, and Andrea says, laughing, "It was a fun thing we were trying that ended up being weirdly very busy.”
Where to find next: The Gold Cart plans to hold another Eastern European-inspired pop-up at The Cask Cafe in January focusing on pierogies and kielbasa.
Fun fact: The name for Gold Cart is derived from the idea that they would “cart” themselves around to different events and use as many local products as possible to meet a “gold standard.”
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Broccoli raab-Swiss and butternut squash sausages (Photo courtesy Mayor Meats)
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Mayor Meats recently participated in a Fire, Flour & Fork event and served butternut squash and sage sausage with brown butter squash puree, seared radicchio and sauteed apples. (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
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Jalapeño-cheddar sausage on a roll with parsley and pickled red onions (Photo courtesy Mayor Meats)
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Broccoli raab-Swiss sausage with garlic puree and sauteed raab (Photo courtesy Mayor Meats)
The Mayor Meats
Founded: In June 2019 by 36-year-old Kyle Morse, a former chef at The Breslin in the Ace Hotel in New York City and a Culinary Institute of America graduate.
Cuisine: From-scratch sausages made using pork from Virginia farms. Although he typically uses Autumn Olive Farms pork, Morse has also partnered with Parker Family Farm in the past. For pop-ups, Morse likes to add a chef's touch and elevate the sausages, whether by adding a ratatouille to his fennel-garlic variety or serving jalapeño-cheddar sausages with pickled red onions and AR’s Hot Southern Honey. Previous Mayor Meats sausage selections include broccoli raab and Swiss cheese, curry, bratwurst, and butternut squash and sage. Vegans stay tuned, Morse says he hopes to develop a plant-based version of his sausages in the future.
Background: When New Hampshire native Morse relocated to Virginia, he knew that he wanted to continue the nose-to-tail philosophy he had executed at The Breslin. “I didn’t want to get into the restaurant scene and wanted to start my own company, and whole-animal butchery felt right.” The stay-at-home dad began experimenting in the confines of his kitchen, and soon Mayor Meats was formed. Morse works out of Hatch Kitchen, which is currently developing an on-site meat-packing line that he hopes to utilize in the future.
Where to find next: Strangeways Brewing on Dec. 7 from 5 to 9 p.m. Mayor Meats has previously held pop-ups at The Jasper, Hotel Greene, Strangeways Brewing Scott’s Addition and Tabol Brewing and collaborated with fellow pop-up Wandering Biscuit.
Fun fact: The “Mayor” in Mayor Meats is a middle name in Morse's family that has been passed down for generations.
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Chilaquiles with a sunny side up egg (Photo courtesy Mercado)
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Tamales with chicken and red and green salsas served in a corn husk (Photo courtesy Mercado)
Mercado
Founded: Earlier this year by 37-year-old Eric Gold. Mercado, Spanish for “market,” was inspired by the food and culture of Riviera Maya, Mexico, where Gold’s wife was born and raised. After the financial officer for VCU found himself frequenting the kitchen and learning recipes from his wife, he decided to share his food with others.
Cuisine: From-scratch menu inspired by Mayan culture. Think traditional ceviche, tamales served in a corn husk, and chilaquiles with optional avocado, portobello and pork belly, along with a variety of toppings and assorted salsas. “When cultures relate to the food it’s super interesting, and the Mayan aspect is really important for me because of [my wife's] background and history,” Gold says. “[Mayan] culture revolved around food, corn and simple ingredients.”
Background: Gold, a Newport News native, has been cooking since his youth, but never professionally. “I spent a lot of time traveling, and I like to understand the recipe and the flavors and how they work together, and when I start cooking I want to know more about the culture and why it’s important.” Gold whips up small-batch handmade salsa every week that he describes as “interesting, punchy and bright,” including a smoky salsa made using morita chiles, a less smoky and softer version of chipotles.
Where to find next: Follow Mercado on Instagram to stay tuned to their upcoming pop-ups, where Gold says guests can expect pozole and tamales. Although Gold is uncertain whether Mercado will become a brick-and-mortar one day, he says future pop-ups are part of the plan as well as potentially bottling salsas.
Fun fact: Gold and his wife met at a salsa dancing class, where they quickly hit it off.
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Spicy miso pork ramen (Photo courtesy Kudzu)
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Shrimp and pork wontons (Photo courtesy Kudzu)
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Scallion pancake (Photo courtesy Kudzu)
Kudzu
Founded: In 2016 by longtime RVADine member Will Richardson, whose resume includes stints at Shoryuken Ramen, Lunch and Supper, and Eurasia, along with assistance from Corey Bertsch.
Cuisine: Kudzu is a cultural mashup that explores Japanese and Chinese techniques, while wholeheartedly embracing Southern roots. Richardson’s mother is Chinese, her family from Hong Kong, while his father was born and raised in Louisa County. “I’m just as Southern as I am Asian,” Richardson says, pointing out the similarities between the two food cultures: pork, pickles, curing and fermentation. “My grandparents moved here in the '60s and were using Edwards Ham because it was a natural thing in our household; it wasn’t fusion, it was just what we were doing.” The most popular Kudzu menu item is tonkotsu ramen, but the pop-up also focuses on rice-based dishes, something Richardson says can be found in every single food culture in the world.
Background: Richardson, a native Richmonder, was born into a family of restaurateurs. “I grew up in a Chinese restaurant; the school bus would drop me off there every day. I’ve basically been in kitchens my whole life," he says. Upon landing in the kitchen at the now shuttered Dd33 Asian Bistro, Richardson says he had a “Ratatouille” moment, where he was swept back in time to his childhood and reignited a passion for the culinary world. Shortly after he began making his own ramen.
Where to find next: Richardson plans to revive former classics from his Shoryuken Ramen days for the kickoff of his permanent Monday-night residence at Weezie’s Kitchen beginning Dec. 2 at 9 p.m. The menu will change weekly at Weezie’s, while including some consistent offerings.
Fun fact: Richardson says he cannot fully disclose the details, but he is planning another “fun project” that is not centered around Asian cuisine with someone currently in search of a brick-and-mortar space.
