Chris Vaughn of Cabbage Hill Farm and Zesto Pesto died Sept. 25.
The local farmers market and dining communities are mourning the loss of one of their own. On Thursday, Sept. 25, Chris Vaughan, the farmer and friendly face behind Cabbage Hill Farm and the offshoot pesto business Zesto Fine Foods, died after having been diagnosed with an untreatable cancer. Vaughan was a staple at the Tuesday Birdhouse Farmers Market and previously the South of the James Farmers Market in Forest Hill Park. The Virginia Commonwealth University graduate launched Cabbage Hill Farm in 1998, and he had been fruitfully supplying area restaurants, grocers and marketgoers ever since.
Known as the “cabbage man,” Vaughan had an innate green thumb. Using natural and sustainable practices, he grew everything from hearty salad mixes and fresh herbs to specialty vegetables and beautiful edible flowers. His pesto business came to fruition following a desire to switch up family pasta dinners and share his mother’s beloved recipe. It was originally a casual add-on, with patrons snagging tubs of the sauces from his tent at the farmers market, before he officially launched Zesto Pesto in 2023.
Introducing inventive takes such as kale and toasted pecan or pea shoot and pistachio, Vaughan expanded and started selling wholesale, with the pesto available across Virginia, in addition to North and South Carolina, Maryland, and Georgia. He also crafted chevre spreads, along with smoked tomatoes and chipotles.
During the first Tuesday following his passing, Birdhouse Farmers Market put up a table in a space that Vaughan and his tent would normally occupy, inviting patrons to leave written messages for the family and share condolences. One market vendor wore a Cabbage Hill T-shirt in his honor.
Vaughan’s impact ripples throughout the local farming ecosystem. He is survived by his wife, Tricia; sons Ethan, Keegan and Gareth; and daughters Cason and Riley. On Sunday, Oct. 26, the community is invited to celebrate his life during a ceremony at Acca Shrine Center (1712 Bellevue Ave. in Richmond) at 11 a.m. Suggested attire is casual, and a reception will follow.
A social media post from the Vaughan family reads, “The family wishes to thank all who have offered support and kind words during this difficult time. The outpouring of love and kindness from the community has been profound and inspiring. The support has been immense and has meant the world to them. In lieu of flowers, please lend a hand to someone in need, practice intentional acts of kindness just as Chris did.”
Local chefs including Joe Sparatta, Andrew Manning, Lee Gregory and Tanya Cauthen are planning a tribute dinner to honor Vaughan; more details to come. There is an active GoFundMe campaign to help support the family and cover expenses.
Edible flowers from Cabbage Hill Farm
A Community Remembers
“Chris was a constant in our market lives for over 20 years. We met when we both did the 17th Street Farmers Market long ago, in the early 2000s. And he was next to us at South of the James [Market] in Forest Hill Park for many, many years. He was so generous and giving to us, with his delicious smoked tomatoes and smoked jalapenos (which he often used our veg to create), and [my husband] George loved his crackers! At South of the James he would roll into the market at the very last minute, pop the van open and set up shop lightning fast, often with several of his young kids in tow. We were always amazed! Chris’ booth was always a hive of activity, with more often than not his whole family there, his many friends always stopping by and Chris’ big, booming laugh as he chatted with everyone. Chris was just such a genuine, completely likable person. Incredibly real and unfiltered. We’re all heartbroken over here.”
—Amy Hicks, Amy’s Garden
“Chris has been a great friend of mine over these past 15 years of working with him, his family and his farm. He has the same sense of humor as I do, so I always looked forward to him showing up to our restaurant every week; he was always good for a laugh. Over the years, I asked him so many questions about parenting and life in general. We had our first child 12 years ago, and with every new addition to our family I would have new questions/fears that he would always listen to, and he always had such good advice considering his large family. Even if Chris didn’t have the answer, he would find a way to make me laugh about how f---ing difficult life or parenting can be. He was the most honest and direct person, who never sugarcoated anything, which I will always appreciate so much. He was an amazing father, husband, farmer and friend. I know he touched a lot of people’s lives in the restaurant community; I feel incredibly grateful to have been one of those people.”
—Joe Sparatta, chef and former co-owner of Heritage and Southbound
“It all happened so fast. I had a long conversation with him at the market just a month ago. He was someone who would always go out of his way for you and grew beautiful things, as well as making killer pesto. His microgreens and flowers were a key component of countless dishes and dinners I’ve done over the years. He was the finishing touch that made each plate special. I’m really going to miss him.”
—Kathryn Schmitz, VegTable RVA
“I’ve been buying from Chris in some iteration for about 24 years. ... He pulled up a converted van with racks of mini-vegetables in front of European Market, back when I was cooking, and explained that he would be selling specialty veg out of this van. Back then the only other people that were doing this were Manakintown [Specialty Growers]. I loved it! I'd ask what he would have two weeks out, so I could menu plan. Fast-forward, life and time go on and I open Belmont Butchery. Originally I only sold Cabbage Hill microgreens (and later pesto) when Birdhouse was closed for the season, to help give him year-round presence. Somewhere along the way, he just kept showing up, and the greens kept selling.
“The thing that has always stood out with Chris has been his perseverance. Even if his greens got hit with a frost, a water failure, another child born, Chris would always show up and tell you the truth. When he was diagnosed with cancer, he showed up and told us what was going on (so we didn’t hear rumors). When he was moved to hospice, two of his sons showed up to tell us what was going on. I will always cherish his smile and wry sense of humor, but more importantly — just show up and tell the truth.”
—Tanya Cauthen, Belmont Butchery
“Chris was a huge part of what I most looked forward to every Tuesday when working at Birdhouse. We self-designated the term “Misfits on the Hill” to describe the twisted sense of humor and general shenanigans Chris, Zach (Old Tavern Farm) and I always seemed to be up to. He got along with everyone and was the most down-to-earth guy. I’ll never forget getting drinks with him after the market, the way he would blast back up the hill with an empanada in hand to catch a customer in time, or his contagious laughter. I still cannot wrap my head around this loss. It feels insane to describe him in the past tense. I have thought so much about his family lately, and I just hope they’re able to find a little peace in knowing that Chris not only had a lot of love from the market community, but the restaurant community treasured him deeply. He will be so dearly missed.”
—Laine Myers, Oro
“He was so special to the community, and we were lucky to have him and his stuff for as long as we did. He was such a great guy, and I have been buying microgreens from him for 20-something years. I don’t like pancreatic cancer; it’s killed too many friends, and at this point we need to take care of the Vaughan family, and I think people are ready to do that. He was an integral part of what we do and a good family man.”
—Amy Gonzalez, Birdhouse Farmers Market board member
“I’ve known Chris for years from trades at the market. I always knew him as the sprout guy, and when you work the farmers markets there’s the apple guy or mushroom guy, and he was just funny and sweet, and I think that’s what everyone is going to say about him. His smoked tomatoes were baller, his microgreens were chef’s kiss, and he would always come get a hibiscus-mojito can and trade with me. He was a fantastic guy, and he will be deeply missed.”
—Kellie Hughes, Owl Spoon Water Kefir
“I’ve known Chris as long as I’ve been in Richmond, and since I started working in restaurants he’s been a staple. I got to work with him real closely in the farmers markets and consumer packaged goods. He was a huge not only friend but collaborator and always trying to help other people out. He would go down to North Carolina to sell his products and offer to take mine, that’s the kind of guy he was.”
—Ned Curry, Ryba’s
“The thing I keep thinking of is less a story and more about how small and fragile our local food scene is. Chris provided something to the local community, restaurants specifically, that no one else does with the same quality, diversity of product, let alone knowledge. There will be a huge hole left by the loss of Chris to his family, friends and larger community, but there will also be a huge hole in the loss of him as a farmer to the fabric of our food community. Farming is a slow and lifelong process, and it is not possible for someone to fill these shoes. This loss will have true ripple effects long into the future. His smile and humor will be missed, as will the food he grew and provided to chefs and customers around the city.”
—Autumn Campbell, Tomten Farm
