The USS Roanoke battleship sandwich from The Black Sheep (File photo by Jay Paul)
It seems the gang’s getting back together, for at least one pop-up, that is.
On Jan. 31, Richmonders will welcome back the beloved and now shuttered The Black Sheep, best known for its massive, 2-foot-long, multitiered, Battleship baguette subs.
A Carver neighborhood favorite, The Black Sheep was the brainchild of Kevin Roberts, a man of few words but many memorable dishes, and Amy Hess; it had an almost decade-long run from 2008 to 2017. Now, Roberts, co-owner of Perly’s, and former Black Sheep line cook John Kincaid will rejoin forces at Secco Wine Bar for a pop-up event and mini homecoming.
“I called Kevin with this grand idea to do a pop-up and [thought] we’d all have this reunion to cook together, make some people around the city happy and also give my bakers some real hours,” says Kincaid, now co-owner of Can Can Brasserie.
Roberts’ response? “They made me do it,” he says sarcastically.
The idea for reuniting began to marinate in the summer of 2020 after Kincaid reopened Can Can for takeout only. Business was fairly slow, and he says that, even when making the smallest batches of fresh bread at the French-inspired restaurant, they were still producing a lot of waste.
Around the same time, Kincaid also took notice of activity on the RVA Dine & Drink Facebook group — a platform created at the onset of the pandemic as a way for the dining community to share information that now has over 60,000 members. He says at least once a month he would spy Black Sheep’s Battleship sandwiches as the topic of discussion, with comments ranging from “What ever happened to The Black Sheep?” to “I miss The Black Sheep! Does any place come close?”
On a thread that asked about favorite dishes people love but can no longer get, the Lafayette from Black Sheep — which featured spiced shrimp loaded atop a French baguette with marinated artichoke hearts, tomatoes, green olive tapenade, chopped romaine, pickled red onion and sherry vinaigrette — graces the list, with one comment reading, “I crave it at least once a month.”
“The Black Sheep seemed to be a right-place, right-time kind of restaurant for Richmond,” says Kincaid, current chef and half of the brother-led duo that took over Can Can in 2000.
In a city where the restaurant scene has continued to grow, with many fleeting concepts emerging along the way, remaining a cherished part of diners’ memories speaks to the magic of The Black Sheep and those who helped bring it to life.
“There are so many great restaurants around the city who have former Black Sheep employees running them,” Kincaid says. “Part of this concept was also to show the dining public that, although the restaurant closed its doors, the people who worked there still serve you all over the city. It really was a place that launched so many careers.”
Members of the past crew include former manager Dave Martin, now of Secco Wine Bar; Marc Rhodes, executive chef of Saison; Frayzer and Melissa Micou of the recently closed Pomona; and chef Jake Keller of Heritage.
While further pop-ups haven't been confirmed, the vision is that each restaurant with former Black Sheep team members could take turns hosting a pop-up event.
“We haven’t fully committed to doing more yet, but I think after this one the public might not let us stop,” Kincaid says.
For many, The Black Sheep, with its mismatched dishware, funky art adorning the walls and sandwiches that paid tribute to maritime battles, was the epitome of Richmond — it didn’t try too hard, was a little scrappy and very endearing.
“It was unique and eclectic, senators eating next to art students, and the staff was filled with artists, musicians and some of the most beautiful weirdos I’ve ever met,” Kincaid says.
While patrons may remember it most for the sandwiches, like Kincaid, Roberts remembers the crew he had alongside him (and maybe the walk-in that, annoyingly, could only be reached by stairs outside).
“I'm aware it has had its fans, but it’s been so long ago now,” says Roberts, who closed the eatery in 2017 after its lease was up. “What I can describe is how I feel a kinship to all that worked with me in making The Black Sheep happen. It was truly a memorable experience.”
The restaurant’s forthcoming reincarnation will include three to four classic Battleships — which were once featured on Travel Channel's “Adam Richman’s Best Sandwich in America” — on the menu, in addition to dessert and beverage options. Preorders will open on Tuesday, Jan. 25, for the takeout-only event. Diners will select a designated pickup time upon ordering, and same-day orders will be accepted depending on availability.
Although the dining industry has experienced a major ebb and flow over the last two years, perhaps this pop-up represents the potential for good things ahead.
"My motivation is a chance to work with some of the guys from back in the day and attempt to re-create something from our shared past," Roberts says. "Hopefully it’ll put smiles on faces and bellies in their places."
