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Alamo fans can expect to find its signature ribs and brisket when sister restaurant Frontier opens at the end of November. (Photo courtesy Alamo BBQ)
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The storefront of the forthcoming Frontier will feature large windows opening onto North 25th Street. (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
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A peek at the tile work inside Frontier's restroom (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
Alamo BBQ has a devoted following for its smoky creations and has established itself as a neighborhood staple in Church Hill, but owner Chris Davis wants more for himself and his staff.
“Alamo’s brand has exceeded its capacity, and it’s very seasonal,” explains Davis as we stand in the forthcoming Frontier, expected to open in late November, which he co-owns with partner Juliette Highland.
Davis says the staff at Alamo, whom he describes as one of the toughest teams around, put up with sweltering summer days, winters where service hits a standstill and a kitchen so cramped that the restaurant has had to turn away catering opportunities.
The Frontier space, at 412 N. 25th St., was originally acquired to expand Alamo's catering capacity, but when Davis was presented with an opportunity to purchase the building, he seized it.
“It occurred to me it’s a good location and can stand on its own two legs,” he says. “And then the last time I was in Houston, the concept hit me like a brick: Argentinian and Brazilian barbecue without gauchos, or grand ballroom dining; if you eliminate that, you have salt, meat and fire — very primitive."
Frontier is an expression of Davis’ Texas roots, combined with barbecue influences from countries including Argentina, Peru and Mexico.
“Every place in the world has their own barbecue, for lack of a better term,” he says.
So, what is the main focus of the full-service spot that seats 55? A custom-made wood-fired rotisserie — a hefty 1-ton investment and centerpiece of the restaurant — that can roast 16 birds at once.
In 2015, Highland and Davis were awarded a $25,000 SEED (Supporting East End Entrepreneurship Development) grant, which went toward the purchase of the grill. The SEED grant was a program launched in 2011 between the Local Initiatives Support Corporation and Bon Secours Health System to push for economic development in the East End.
“The rotisserie is the focal point of the open kitchen, and we will always have a roaring fire,” says Davis. “Wood and fire and the natural elements.”
Items to be prepared on the rotisserie grill range from duck to swordfish, burgers, whole chickens, and even corn and tomahawk rib-eyes. Rotating dinner specials will allow Davis to be creative in his culinary exploration.
Die-hard Alamo fans will not be forgotten, with Frontier planning to offer brisket, ribs and select menu items from the almost 10-year-old barbecue spot. It’s Davis’ fajitas, however, that should really excite patrons, he says.
“I make the best fajitas I’ve ever had,” Davis claims, prepared in a green sauce with flavors of citrus and mesquite. The sheer confidence in this statement makes me believe in him and his goal of serving food that simply makes people feel good.
“I used to go to New York and D.C. to eat crispy duck in Chinatown, and it was endorphin-releasing food,” says Davis. “If I can get four dishes that do that and share them, that’s what I want.”
In terms of decor, Highland says, the restaurant will feature natural wood elements, along with tiles taken from the ceiling to adorn the walls. The large windows facing 25th Street will showcase the rotisserie and allow people passing by to catch a glimpse.
Frontier will be home to 20 taps, along with a bottle selection including grenade-style Coors Banquet originals, local beers, bottle-conditioned ales and a growler system.
Another focus for Frontier: comfort.
Davis wants the restaurant to be scattered with “creature comforts,” including backpack and purse racks along the bar and charging ports. Another offering is a late-night menu for night owl neighbors or people in restaurant industry who want to unwind with a post-work beer and eat high-quality, affordable food.
“I used to wait tables at Avalon [formerly on Main Street in The Fan], and one of the things I loved was getting off at 12:30 [at night], and they had a killer late-night bar menu, with things like duck pizza,” explains Davis.
Davis says Frontier’s bar menu will incorporate the meats roasted on the rotisserie that day. If there’s duck left from dinner service, for example, diners can expect duck egg rolls or duck fried rice and other fusion-style dishes.
“We want people to hang out and hope it's a comfortable place.”
Frontier, at 412 N. 25th St., will be open Sunday through Thursday from 11:00 a.m. to midnight, and Friday and Saturday from 11:00 a.m. to 2 a.m.
