Illustration by Vivienne Lee
Hard cider has a bit of an identity problem.
Most everyone knows the difference between a chardonnay and a cabernet sauvignon. Many can even tell the difference between a stout and an IPA. Cider, however, has no clear nomenclature to help differentiate an exquisite heirloom variety from that which is mass-produced and mass-marketed.
Even among cider makers, there is much disagreement. Some swear by cider apples, while others find eating apples, the kind you find in large pyramids at the grocery store, produce cider just as fine. Even more perplexing is when tart, bitter apples produce sweet cider while some sweeter apples can yield a bone-dry tipple.
Cider makers, like wine makers and brewers of beer, are alchemists. Part of that alchemy is driven by yeasts, mostly predictable strains that have existed for centuries. White- and red-wine strains, grown from the skins of grapes, can enhance or exaggerate fruity and floral flavors. Beer strains can make ciders act like your favorite brewed beverage. Champagne yeast strains, a current favorite due to their neutrality, allow the apples to speak for themselves.
Undomesticated wild strains are a whole different game. The yeast cultures could come from the skins of the apples being pressed, or plants like hops or barley. You could even culture yeast from the local flowers growing around the orchard. These, of course, can be hugely unpredictable — both in how they affect the flavor and the fermentation.
Fining, or filtration, is another consideration. Unfiltered cider can look cloudy and unappetizing. Too much filtration, though, can leave a colorless, tasteless cider that is eminently forgettable.
Without the clear and recognizable names, what is needed is a little education. You won’t find it in the mass-produced cider made from unknown apples in huge fermentation tanks. Make your way to the nearest cidery, order the tasting flight and ask questions. Treat it like you would a wine you’ve never heard of before. What you might find is a whole new world of tasty beverages to explore and enjoy.
