A reliable favorite that never gets old, an archetype beloved for generations, the dear friend no one dares gossip about — you guessed it: chocolate chip cookies. We took a hard (yet chewy) look at the iconic sweet treat, taste-testing at bakeries, pop-ups and even pizza shops around Richmond to track down the top cookie contenders and find out what sets them apart. Each baker we spoke with shared childhood memories, with these circles of joy a through line for everyone. Like any true classic, chocolate chip cookies stand the test of time.
Chocolate Chip Cookie, Pizza Bones
Sometimes, after splitting a pizza with your bestie, all you really need is a little something sweet to finish the meal. Enter Pizza Bones’ wee chocolate chip cookie, possibly the ideal epilogue for dinner. Owner and baker Ashley Patino says that while the technique is the standard creaming method of combining softened butter and sugar, it’s the high-quality ingredients that make her version shine. “We incorporate oat flour, sometimes subbing in whole rye,” Patino says. “Substituting a bit of whole grain or oat flour for all-purpose flour adds depth, giving the cookies an earthy edge and slightly more cereal-y texture.”
Buckwheat Chocolate Chip Cookie, Janet’s Café & Bakery
Whole grains are the backbone of this crave-worthy cookie, balancing earthiness and sweetness thanks to buckwheat flour and Hilliard, a soft wheat flour sourced locally from Deep Roots Milling. Co-owner and baker Janey Gioiosa builds from there, using organic granulated and dark brown sugars to give her cookies the perfect chew and crumble. But it’s the chocolate that unites it all. “We use high-quality dark chocolate, a mix of 58% and 72%, for darker and lighter bites,” Gioiosa says. “And, of course, top it with Maldon salt.”
Brown Butter Chocolate Chip Cookie, Le Petit Morceau
Baker Tra My Anderson of forthcoming Manchester bakery Le Petit Morceau has spent a decade perfecting her chocolate chip cookie. “A great cookie doesn’t need to be elevated past the point of approachability,” she says. “They need to be grounded in that childhood nostalgia.” Her secret? Brown butter, a generous sprinkle of flaky sea salt and heaps of homemade toffee, burnt just right. The result is a playful mix of textures and tastes, from salty and buttery to caramelly and malty. Grab a dozen at the South of the James Farmers Market.
Salted Dark Chocolate Olive Oil Cookie, Fat Rabbit
Fat Rabbit’s salted dark chocolate olive oil cookies stand out for their big, thick, layered shards of chocolate. Boasting a slight bitterness, the crispy-edged and substantial, yet soft-middled cookies are the creation of baker Ellyn Hopper, who knew the exact kind of final product she wanted. “Our dark chocolate olive oil cookie is ‘more-ish,’” she says. “Well balanced, not overly sugared and with a depth of earthiness.” The cookie’s “it” factor lies in the name. With olive oil as the main fat instead of butter, the cookies have a flavor and texture that set them apart.
Brown Butter Black Sesame Brittle Cookie, Hem and Her
Turns out, wife knows best. When Santana Hem’s spouse urged him to sell his brown butter black sesame brittle chocolate chip cookies — a tongue-twister of a name for a uniquely delicious treat — he sent out samples, and they found a wide following. The former restaurant chef and founder of Cambodian pop-up Hem and Her blends his Virginia roots with his Khmer heritage, and this treat has been a breakout hit. Complex yet approachable, the cookies are slightly savory, slightly sweet and studded with crispy brittle. He makes 300-400 weekly, sold individually (stocking stuffer, anyone?) at Stella’s Grocery, Yellow Umbrella Provisions and other local shops.
Rye Espresso Chocolate Chip Cookie, Petit Four
The latest project from restaurateur Donnie Glass of Grisette, Jardin and Beaucoup, Fan bakery Petit Four churns out a lineup of French classics every weekend. A noteworthy addition is their rye espresso chocolate chip cookie. Pastry chef Kendra Noel says rye flour imparts a deep flavor in the dough, while espresso is a “classic complement to dark chocolate.” With an almost fudge-like consistency, the cookies are nutty, balanced and rich. “We wanted a cookie that felt just as indulgent and satisfying as any other pastry we offer,” Noel says.
Hazelnut Praline Cookie, Sub Rosa Bakery
Like all of Sub Rosa’s treats, their beloved Hazelnut Praline Cookie starts with locally sourced, house-milled, stone-ground flour — in this case, spelt flour, which gives the cookie a subtly nutty earthiness right from the jump. From there, it’s the combination of chocolate and hazelnut that sets this cookie apart. “The richness from the homemade praline paste, combined with single-origin Venezuelan Escazu chocolate from a North Carolina maker … make this cookie so special in flavor and texture,” explains co-owner and baker Evin Dogu.
