
Jay Bayer and Michael Birch-Pierce working out at Richmond Balance (Photo by Jason Tesauro)
One month ago, 13 food and drink professionals kickstarted a semiweekly ass-kicking commitment: Pump iron, ride bikes, tone up and slim down. Twenty-eight days in, nobody’s dropped out, and everyone’s got that healthy glow. If weeks one and two were about knocking the dust off our helmets and sports bras, these past two have been an exercise in form, balance and strength. Some of our participants have opened more bars in the past five years than they’ve lifted barbells in the previous 10, yet we’re getting there. Our coach, Richmond Balance owner Hunter Rhoades, is heartened: “Familiarity with the weights has improved. You’re all easier to coach now that everyone knows what to do.”
In his Shockoe Bottom location, Rhoades sees a cross-section of clientele. I asked if anything about this motley crew surprised him. “Steady attendance. And punctuality! Lots of rounded shoulders and tight backs, but the attitude is great.” Turns out that people who regularly survive the demands of service and the frequent vitriol of guests find it easier than most to follow a coach’s demands and smile through leg-buckling bouts of wall ball, dead lifts and 500-meter sprints on the rowing machines.
Trainer Hunter Rhoades of Richmond Balance works with Michael Birch-Pierce on his deadlifts as David Martin, Kristel Poole, Michael Birch-Pierce, Brittanny Anderson, Beth Dixon and James Kohler look on. (Video by Jason Tesauro)
Now that we’ve got the bug, established habits and locked in proper posture, the challenge is threefold: Set goals, find time and don’t eff it up in the off-hours. According to Rhoades, “One percent of your weight per week is considered healthy weight loss without radical diet change. There are 168 hours in the week, but I only see you for two. That’s 166 hours left to %$#@ it up.” Giant Bicycles and Pedal Power Bicycles teamed up to get our butts in saddles, but it still takes self-discipline to clip in and ride on.

From left, Ethan Craig, Kristel Poole, James Kohler, Jason Alley and Jay Bayer (Photo courtesy Kristel Poole)
Maybe Secco Wine Bar owner Julia Battaglini has cracked the code: “I've discovered a great quick weight-loss regimen: Get up early – 10 a.m. – light exercise, sensible breakfast, veggie-driven lunch, then work 13 hours, forget to eat dinner, drink a bottle of wine and wake up totally dehydrated. Voila, two more pounds lost!”
This is the conundrum of hospitality work: long hours, long pours and on-the-fly eating.
“Sadly,” Battaglini says, “it's highlighted how much I've been lumping fitness in with other good-for-me activities like reading or laundry that always take a back seat; like it's a treat, not a necessity. You can go for a walk after you do the schedule or lift weights after an extensive financial analysis of whether brunch is profitable."
Secco General Manager David Martin adds, “Finding the gym again has really reminded me of how much I like throwing weights around. That’s my tip for anyone: It makes you feel better.”
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At right, James Kohler of Brenner Pass tackles kettle-bell squats as, from left, David Martin, Kristel Poole, Michael Birch-Pierce, Brittanny Anderson and Beth Dixon look on (Photo by Jason Tesauro)
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James Kohler and Brittanny Anderson of Brenner Pass looking fierce (Photo courtesy Jason Tesauro)
For Pasture and Comfort Beverage Director Beth Dixon, “It’s getting easier to find time as exercise is being integrated into my (almost) daily routine. Biking to work more gets a little workout squeezed in as well. I am generally drinking less and eating less junk food so that I can see the full effects. Plus, it’s so much easier to wake up and get riding or walking.” Coworker Sarah Gaskin adds, “I've been trying to bike for errands and sometimes just for a joyride. Also when this came in the mail [a 25-lb bag of Epsom salt], I did [three sets of] 15 squats with it before carrying it to the tub.”
Says Jason Alley, owner of three local restaurants, “By setting long- and short-term goals, you hold yourself more accountable. Also, using some sort of tracking app like Strava gives tangible results. Kids getting back to school means days start at 6:30 a.m., I'm home by 8:45 a.m. and can get in a ride well before lunch service even begins.”

From left, Jason Alley, Jason Tesauro, Jay Bayer (Photo by Jason Tesauro)
Kristel Poole just got promoted to general manager at Graffiato, further shrinking her free time, but she’s found a groove on her bike and support in the peloton. “Making this a group thing and holding each other accountable has been extremely helpful," she says.
Vanity is a fine reason to hit the gym, but for this crew, it’s about enhancing lives and prolonging careers. Ripped abs would be nice, but increased strength and stamina to traipse kegs from the basement, ferry wine cases to the cellar and haul whole animals to the butcher table will do just fine. And maybe, just maybe, we’ll precipitate a shift in how the industry spends its off-time. In August, we saw one another more before noon than after midnight. Even without beers, shots or pork shoulder, we still had plenty to bond over and laugh about. I’ll drink squat to that.
From left, Michael Ashley, Brittanny Anderson, Beth Dixon, David Martin, Julia Battaglini, Cassi Niemann (another coach at Richmond Balance) and Sarah Gaskin (Video by Jason Tesauro)