Pho and Durian Shin To at Pho Que Huong (Photo by Hadley Chittum)
Pho Que Huong
Glen Allen
As some national chains have departed from Virginia Center Commons, it's created opportunities for enterprising restaurateurs to repurpose these turnkey spaces. Such is the case with an old barbecue joint that now is home to Pho Que Huong, a Vietnamese eatery at 10073 Brook Road. The pho is extremely authentic, a bowl of deeply rich broth swimming with cuts like tripe and tendon. The delicate slices of meat are perfect, pleasantly absorbing the aromatic broth. For the more adventurous diners, try the Durian Shin To — a refreshing shake made with the pungent Asian fruit.
Ronnie’s BBQ
Henrico
Outside of town, among the bucolic pastures of Varina along the Virginia Capital Trail on Route 5, clouds emanate from an enormous red smoker at this reincarnated barbecue outpost at 2097 New Market Road. Here, the ribs and wings are beautifully smoky and firm, while the pulled pork, doused with a vinegar sauce, lifts the flavor, rather than jarring it. Besides the meats, there is much chatter surrounding the mac and cheese, and I’ll confirm, it is a side to be reckoned with, and one that is typically only whipped up on Sundays. If they're dishing out their famed brisket mac on your visit, you’ve truly lucked out.
Jamaica Taste
North Church Hill
Sometimes it’s hard to sate my craving for goat. Few menus have it, and when you do spot it, the price can give you pause. Jamaica Taste, at 2913 Nine Mile Road, serves up a generous “small” dish of curried goat and rice for a mere seven bucks. The bones might not be for the squeamish, but they do help add depth to the dish that can otherwise be hard to achieve. Make sure to try a patty, lightly spiced beef or chicken in a flaky pastry shell, also with a vegetarian option available. At $2 a pop, several could make a nice meal. Personally, I’m eyeing the braised oxtail the next time I get a craving for Jamaican fare.
