Even in the best of times, opening a restaurant is a risky endeavor. Opening a restaurant during a pandemic is essentially uncharted territory. While Richmond has lost a number of independent restaurants due to pandemic pressures, including gems that helped shape the dining scene, the region has also witnessed an influx of new dining establishments. We look at some of these recent additions, from a chef-driven pizzeria in Scott’s Addition to a Black-owned juice bar in the Fan and an urban oasis in Fulton Hill. Although face masks, takeout boxes and COVID protocols were not a part of the owners’ original visions, they have embraced concepts they hope can thrive in the current climate, exhibiting the tenacity restaurateurs are known for.
Blue Atlas owners Ben Watters and Rachel Best (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
Blue Atlas
1000 Carlisle Ave., 804-554-0258
Named for the Blue Atlas cedars on the property, this Fulton Hill gem offers one of the most underrated views of the city skyline. This is where you want to cozy up next to a heater and watch the sunset; catch up with a friend over ume margaritas with salted plum rims; or bring a laptop, eat a bahn mi for lunch and take advantage of working “from home.”
Located inside the former Robert Fulton School, this market-restaurant-portico respite debuted in September from Colorado transplants Ben Watters and Rachel Best, a husband-and-wife team. The menu takes diners on a trip around the globe, with influences from Europe, Asia, the Middle East and Africa and reflects Best’s previous stint at a vegan restaurant. Dishes such as hearts of palm ceviche, harissa cauliflower and butternut squash pierogis are must-orders.
The duo signed their lease in February, and luckily the property came equipped with two very pandemic-friendly dining features: a spacious outdoor patio and a market.
“The market is the piece I didn’t want to do, but it’s actually a good thing to have now,” Best says with a laugh. And of the outdoor area, recently equipped with cozy heaters, she adds, “Having this available can kind of make up for any lost space and tables that would be in the dining room.” —Eileen Mellon
Richmond-based Chewy's Bagels topped with lox (Photo by Jay Paul)
Surrounding Counties
8801 Three Chopt Road, 804-525-4778
When Zach Archibald, co-owner of Lamplighter Coffee Roasters, moved to Henrico County, he was struck by the lack of cafe options in the area around Douglas Freeman High School. As the trend toward convenience food began to curve upward during the pandemic, the concept for Surrounding Counties began to take shape.
“This is specialty coffee for the masses,” says Archibald, who developed a hot-and-ready breakfast menu that includes fancy Sub Rosa toasts, Chewy’s Bagels and the Texan cult favorite kolaches. But it’s Surrounding Counties’ business ethos that makes the coffee shop unique. “Under the hood, this is one of the most progressive businesses out there,” says Archibald, explaining his commitment to providing both a living wage to pay bills and a recreational one, which affords for leisure. Archibald hopes to expand the concept to other locations throughout the region.
No stranger to brick-and-mortar businesses, Archibald opened three locations of Lamplighter Coffee starting in 2011, just as the recent recession was loosening its grip. In a similarly risky time, Archibald says, he knows what to look for — how to find the equipment and capital to get an operation running when others, unfortunately, are closing. —Stephanie Ganz
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Obe ata braised lamb shank with jollof rice (Photo by Ash Daniel)
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Chef Mike Lindsey (Photo by Ash Daniel)
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Photo by Ash Daniel
Lillie Pearl
416 E. Grace St., 804-412-8724
Mitigating the risks of COVID-19 was familiar territory for Kimberly Love-Lindsey and Mike Lindsey since they wrote the book on it — literally. Formerly with EAT Restaurant Partners, the couple was behind the restaurant group’s pandemic response.
Those lessons, from distancing to exposure protocols, are now in play at their own restaurant, Lillie Pearl, named after chef Mike’s grandmother and located in the downtown space where Pasture used to churn out pimento cheese. A deal with the landlord to tie rent to COVID capacity restrictions lessened the financial risk and startup costs for a space the duo says they had “fallen in love with.”
Lillie Pearl blends the flavors of Lindsey’s childhood with West African and Southern influences — think smothered pork chops, obe ata braised lamb shank with jollof rice and okra, and baked pimento mac and cheese. To make the most of the kitchen while seating is limited, Lindsey has introduced Buttermilk and Honey, a pop-up concept producing towering fried chicken sandwiches out of Lillie Pearl, in addition to events around the region. —Piet E. Jones
A scoop of lemon-berry sorbet (vegan) and dulce de leche ice cream (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
Ruby Scoops
120 W. Brookland Park Blvd., 804-912-1320
Brookland Park Boulevard is having a moment, and it’s exactly where Ruby Scoops founder Rabia Kamara knew she wanted to open her ice cream shop. Though the brand was born in Washington, D.C., the VCU graduate says Richmond feels like home. “The way that Richmond embraces small business and Black business — I knew that I could come here and craft the world I wanted for myself.”
The pandemic and problems with a landlord threw countless hurdles at Kamara and business partner Emmett Wright, but the duo cleared them in their race to open the shop. With customer safety at the forefront, Kamara and Wright had to alter their vision of Ruby Scoops as a neighborhood hangout, but the shop has nonetheless struck a major chord with its inventive flavors and vegan offerings.
Pastelito, a cream-cheese ice cream with a guava swirl, is inspired by Kamara’s Colombian “second mother” and her multiethnic upbringing. D.C. Coffee Date, born of Wright’s experience as a “military brat,” marries coffee ice cream and a date-studded sticky-toffee pudding cake, which conjures childhood memories of Bahrain. —SG
Autumn McLean with Town Hall’s “Jalapoloma” (Photo by Jay Paul)
Town Hall
3123 W. Cary St., 804-726-1270
The deal for Town Hall, Belmont Food Shop chef-owner Mike Yavorsky’s homage to honky-tonks and dive bars, was finalized in mid-March, just before the city shut down. The Carytown bar housed in the former Weezie’s Kitchen space was meant to be an affordable industry watering hole, a place where the chefs and waiters Yavorsky saw walking home after their shifts at Can Can could down a beer and snack on interesting bar foods.
Yavorsky saw the tsunami of dining room devastation lapping at his new venture’s doors and asked for a “Corona clause” in his lease. He says that has helped, but as soon as restrictions were lessened, the landlord came calling for full rent — plus an increase.
Retooling his dream was fast and furious, and at nearly a year in, Yavorksy is reimagining it. “I want to add lunch to make up for the lost bar revenue and also make [coursed] dinners to go during the week,” he says. —Genevelyn Steele
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Pork barbecue sandwich with coleslaw (Photo by Jay Paul)
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Photo by Jay Paul
The Feed Store
2030 Broad Street Road, Maidens, 804-556-0435
When husband-and-wife team Adam Hall and Sara Kerfoot — previously the chef/co-owner and front-of-house manager, respectively, at Jackson Ward’s Saison — saw a “For Rent” sign in the window of a 100-year-old country store in Goochland County, the pieces began coming together for a restaurant of their own. Opened in mid-November, The Feed Store features Hall’s North Carolina- and Virginia-style barbecue — a study in subtlety that’s slowly brought to fruition over oak- and fruit-tree wood, with minimal seasoning to let the natural flavors of pulled pork, chicken and ribs speak for themselves.
The opening wasn’t exactly what they had envisioned: “[The pandemic has] really tempered the business we were able to open,” Kerfoot explains. “We have a modified version of what The Feed Store is in our heads, but we've had to be practical and say this is the version we are able to open right now.” But, Kerfoot adds, she’s hopeful that in time The Feed Store, which is currently open for takeout only, will get closer to its original concept, with indoor dining, expanded outdoor seating and an ABC license. —SG
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Lucky AF in Scott's Addition features everything from poke bowls (top right) to sesame chicken (next photo). (Photo by Ash Daniel)
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Photo by Ash Daniel
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Photo by Ash Daniel
Lucky AF
3103 W. Leigh St., 804-905-9888
EAT Restaurant Partners Director of Hospitality Chris Staples had been dreaming of a sushi spot in Scott’s Addition for months before inking the deal to take over the former Aloi space in February 2020. “Had we known about the pandemic,” Staples says, “I’m unclear if the deal would have happened.”
Under the direction of chef Hai Truong, Lucky AF (Asian Fusion) combines elements of menus from EAT restaurants Osaka and Red Salt Chop House with bento boxes and cheeky maki rolls. Likewise, the cocktails reflect the hip vibe of Lucky AF with playful libations and three hours of happy hour deals daily.
This is one of many restaurants Staples has had a hand in launching, but the first during a pandemic, an experience that shifted the focus from the fun and excitement of a grand opening to more serious matters, like staff and customer safety. “We have had to redefine what hospitality means,” he says. —SG
The Beet Box co-owners Ashley Lewis and Antione "Roc" Meredith (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
The Beet Box
2611 W. Cary St., 804-447-7335
Antione “Roc” Meredith grew up down the street from the location of his almost decade-old personal training studio, ReDefine RVA, and his recently opened smoothie and juice bar, The Beet Box, which he co-owns with Ashley Lewis. Operating businesses in the community where it all began has felt like a full-circle moment in his life, he says.
“When you’re in the field I am, personal training, you genuinely want to help people, so [The Beet Box] went hand in hand [with that].”
Years ago, the Richmond native began making juices for clients, including Lewis. They were well received, and when the space next to his Cary Street gym became available, he saw an opportunity.
“I thought, ‘OK, this could be something more,’ ” he says. “We know people are in a hurry, and now with COVID, they don’t want to sit and linger around. This is a good option that you can take with you.”
At the end of October, Meredith and Lewis debuted their homage to a healthy lifestyle and a love for music. The Fan juice palace with a mural by local artist Hamilton Glass is hard to miss. Pro tip: Order the namesake smoothie, The Beet Goes On. —EM
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(From left) Instabowl Chef de Cuisine Kevin Tate, Sous Chef Chris Smith and chef-owner Mike Ledesma (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
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“Curry in a Hurry” with shrimp (Photo by Eileen Mellon)
Instabowl
2601 W. Cary St., 804-367-3341
Perch chef-owner Mike Ledesma had a vision for transforming the old Acacia space into a trendy brunch spot with skylights and a brightly colored interior. Then March 2020 arrived. Ledesma and partners were forced to reassess.
“The model was broken,” Ledesma says of the way restaurants operated pre-pandemic. “Two hundred fifty to 300 covers a night isn’t going to happen anymore.”
Now, in a stripped-down, bare-bones shell on Cary Street, Instabowl has risen. There’s no seating — it’s to-go and delivery orders only. The menu? Easy to eat and transport breakfast and lunch bowls such as steak and egg with roasted corn salsa and chimichurri, or a vegetarian “curry in a hurry.”
Eventually, Instabowl will resemble a food court or hall, with different chefs hosting stalls. The first planned concept, Drift, draws on Caribbean influences. Beyond that, the sky’s the limit, but the overall goal will remain the same — eliminate a large dining room, offer more space for food preparation and allow diners to pick up their food and hit the road. —PEJ
Stewed veggie meatballs, a popular vegan offering at Irie Vibes' second location (Photo by Jay Paul)
Irie Vibes 2
11001 Midlothian Turnpike, 804-924-2829
Chef Owen Lawrence hails from Jamaica, previously running the kitchen at the Pelican Grill Montego Bay before moving to Richmond. Lawrence and his wife, Angela, opened Irie Vibes in Richmond’s East End four years ago, adding a second location this past November. The new dining room, which features tabletops decorated with the Jamaican flag, has a Caribbean theme, but dine-in service has been suspended indefinitely.
“To-go business has been booming for us at both places,” Angela says. “Takeout is busier at [the original location off Creighton Road] because people already know it. Midlothian is getting busier from word of mouth, social media and advertising.”
The South Side outpost opens at 11:30 a.m., and in true island fashion, they serve fried and boiled dumplings and salt fish for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Gingery oxtail and curried chicken with rice and peas are best sellers, but Angela calls attention to the Rasta Pasta and the vegan listings, such as stewed veggie meatballs made from chickpeas, as specialties.
“We start the vegan meatballs from scratch,” Angela says. “They’re my husband's secret recipe.” —GS
For the Love of ’Za
Grab a slice from one of Richmond’s recent cheesy additions
Photo by Justin Chesney
2930 W. Broad St., 804-905-7437
Former Southbound Executive Chef Craig Perkinson first spoke of his dream pizza shop in 2019, and one year later, the ovens were lit. A strictly takeout venture, look for Detroit-style squares and inventive, chef-driven round pies on the menu. Pro tip: Order a side of house-made hot honey or water ranch for the perfect drizzle or dip.
Photo by Justin Vaughan
2923 W. Cary St., 804-824-3103
Owner Rob Zorch began slinging New York-style slices at Scott’s Addition breweries in 2018. After two years of sellouts, this namesake food truck has found a home in Carytown. While the truck will still hit the road, a brick-and-mortar space — set to open in January — means Zorch will be just a call or click away.
Photo by Justin Vaughan
1301 W. Leigh St., 804-447-0757
Cobra Cabana owners Herbie Abernethy and Josh Novicki debuted their second Carver venture, the Van Halen-inspired Hot for Pizza, in April. Their specialty? A personal pan pizza — reminiscent of Pizza Hut's but chunkier — dubbed “The Carver,” with slightly charred cheese and crust.
Photo by Justin Vaughan
1717 E. Franklin St., 804-716-5729
In October, owners Ashley Ramsey and her husband, chef Micah Crump, began hosting pizza pop-ups in the shuttered Lickinghole Creek Craft Brewery satellite bar in Shockoe Bottom. Eventually, the duo took over the location permanently, and in November began dishing out personal-sized pies, such as the Chesapeake, a white pizza with crab and shrimp.
