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(From left) Brave Captain owners Herbie Abernethy and Josh Novicki
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Shrimp and grits from Brave Captain
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Sailor sandwich at Brave Captain
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Brave Captain embraces a nautical theme.
A grizzled sea captain and shark hunter from the fictional Amity Island in “Jaws,” Quint, played by Robert Shaw, is considered one of the greatest movie characters of all time. His tough-as-nails attitude was in full effect from his first scene until (spoiler) he met his end courtesy of the title character.
Inside Brave Captain, a recently opened dive bar at 729 W. Cary St., a portrait on velvet of the cross-eyed commander, beer can in hand, hangs prominently. At the no-frills spot that channels his spirit, the phrase “Crush it like Quint” has become Brave Captain’s unofficial slogan, and the pop of a Narragansett being opened can be heard at any time of day.
Herbie Abernethy and Josh Novicki, the forces behind vegan-friendly, punk rock-tinged spots Hot for Pizza and Cobra Cabana in Carver, introduced the new restaurant and bar at the end of December. Reviving the smaller half of the former Mojo’s space — a long-running cheesesteak spot and late-night hangout — the duo have dropped a seaside hole in the wall in the middle of the city.
Abernethy says they saw potential in taking over what was once a party site on the outskirts of Virginia Commonwealth University’s campus. He describes Novicki as the catalyst for a lot of their projects.
“He’ll bring it up, and I’ll see if we can make it happen. You can get a lot done, but you can’t get a lot done by yourself. I don’t know if I would take it all on if I didn’t have somebody. When you have a partner who’s always pushing you to do something else, then you see what you can really do.”
Though they stay busy with their other ventures, including the forthcoming listening lounge Space Mountain, Abernethy says regarding new projects that the pair are “never looking, but never not looking.”
“The anticipation of the opening was bigger than any of our other places we’ve done, just because, I think historically, the location is like a hot spot for a lot of people,” says the long-bearded Abernethy, also the founding vocalist of rock band Valient Thorr.
Inside the space, they have traded the red paint for cobalt blue, lined the walls with framed images of boaters at sea and hung up a gleaming 10-foot-long marlin. Magners Irish Cider is one of two options on tap, and a chalkboard, a relic from Mojo’s, lists specials and the catch of the day.
Abernethy says, “With it being a nautical theme, it’s not like mom beach house chic; it’s more of like a grizzled old sailor pub.”
Brave Captain feels like stumbling into a worn-in waterside bar — and there’s a reason. Abernethy grew up going to Kure Beach and Carolina Beach, small coastal towns in North Carolina. Many of the decorative items inside Brave Captain are hand-me-downs from Abernethy and Novicki’s restaurant in Carolina Beach, The Sandspur. When they were originally coming up with names for The Sandspur, Brave Captain — a song by alt-rock band Firehose — had been suggested, then scrapped, but never forgotten.
The vision for Brave Captain is steered by its square footage (1,200) and slim layout. “The place becomes the concept,” Abernethy says. “You look at what you got, what you got to work with, and if you can make it happen.”
In the kitchen are Novicki and Lathen Bullington, who has been a fixture at Cobra Cabana and Hot for Pizza for years.
The menu is a smattering of staples such as vegan cheddar bay biscuits, snacky and salty in all the right ways, and cheesy crab dip with housemade Old Bay-dusted chips. Soups are mainstays in the cooler months, including New England clam chowder and lobster bisque.
Among the mains, look for the Sailor, a Richmond-born handheld featuring beer-braised knockwurst, smoked pastrami, scratch-made spicy mustard and Swiss cheese on marbled rye; a crab melt; and a chicken grinder. Fish sandwiches arrive grilled, blackened or fried and served on a buttery brioche spiked with a lemon wedge, along with tartar sauce and steak fries. There is also a power bowl of mixed greens, kale, quinoa, edamame, garbanzo beans, pickled veggies, cucumber and tomato, topped with blackened tofu, chicken or fish and dressed with a key lime vinaigrette or vegan ranch.
Specials have included shrimp and grits; vegan options such as a tempura-battered banana blossom sandwich with mixed greens, pickled veggies, nori and vegan tartar sauce; and the LGBT, a lobster, guacamole, smoked bacon and tomato roll.
Cocktails are a tight collection of classics — think rum-heavy sips including the creamy, tropical Painkiller; the bold and gingery Dark and Stormy; and the Good Time Boy, a Brave Captain original featuring Captain Morgan, Campari, pineapple, lime juice and simple syrup.
Brave Captain has been equally packed on a Monday at 3:45 p.m. as on a Saturday at 11 p.m. It hasn’t taken long to attract thirsty, loyal comrades to the boozy waters.
“There are already regulars from the neighborhood who, you know, have been waiting for a spot, and they cozy up there about a certain time every night,” Abernethy says. “I’m glad that the neighborhood has already embraced us.
“That’s our whole thing with all of our spots: We want to be consistent and reliable with quality,” he says. “We want to be able to be like, it’s Monday, it’s Thursday, it’s Sunday, it’s Friday, whatever day, and you know that you can come there, and we’ll be here.”
