Leanne Fletcher (Photo by Jay Paul)
Known for its lovingly sized portions and friendly crew, Big Herm’s Kitchen connected a community of comfort food lovers over its nearly 20 years in Jackson Ward and on Brookland Park Boulevard. While the eatery shuttered in late 2024, the business will continue as a catering company under the guidance of longtime employee Leanne Fletcher. Her specialty is desserts, so expect a few new treats to pop up on the menu beyond Fletcher’s signature peach bread pudding, which is also a customer favorite.
Richmond magazine: How’d you get started at Big Herm’s?
Leanne Fletcher: I knew [Herman “Big Herm” Baskerville’s] family, his mom and his sister. I was really close with his sister. When I became a single mom of two kids, I needed a job that allowed me to be at home and to work while they were in school. I started as a delivery driver for breakfast and lunch at Herm’s, and when he opened the store on Second Street, I ran the cash register there; I did whatever needed to be done. His sister was doing the catering side of things. Eventually, though, she had two kids of her own, and she was like, … “I need to transfer this over,” so I got involved in that part. I’ve been catering for about six years now.
RM: Big Herm’s has shifted entirely to catering; tell us about that transition.
Fletcher: Yes, we closed the [restaurant], and I’m making the transition with the people who love us in mind. I’m using Big Herm’s recipes, but there will be things that I’ll add. Tiramisu, regular and gluten-free; it’s a big hit. And more desserts, like strawberry cakes and cupcakes. It will be more streamlined, with the vegan and vegetarian options highlighted. I’m trying to keep the good food, the comfort food that was established, in play — that feels important. People were like, “Where will I get my catfish and peach bread pudding?” And I can do much of that through the catering side. Not everything, but most things.
RM: You grew up cooking in Hanover. What are some experiences from your younger years that influenced the chef you are today?
Fletcher: I’m more on the baking side because I baked with my grandmother. I still have some of her recipes. We were on a farm, so we went to the store for meat and milk, but other than that, we grew our food and cooked it. Apples for applesauce, grapes for jelly — I had a bucket of butter beans to shell every night with my homework. I grew up around food. If you didn’t contribute to the garden or in the kitchen, you didn’t get fed. That was part of the upbringing.
RM: What do you love about catering events?
Fletcher: Other than the chaos? [Laughs] I love the diversity. You can do anything from just appetizers to full meals to desserts — the diversity in foods, and the diversity in the type of people you meet. Baby showers, funerals. Basketball events. You meet so many different kinds of people, and it’s great.
RM: What advice would you give to others in the food industry?
Fletcher: Give opportunities to people. I was fortunate that, with Big Herm, not only did he employ me, but both of my kids. They worked on catering events in the summertime, and it helped them enter the real world. Opportunities are important.
This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
